Scope ring Lapping?

[yorketransport]

I lap all of my scope rings, except the Burris Signature rings. Every single set of standard rings (no inserts) from Talley, Warne, Leupold, Weaver, Ruger, or Burris have needed to be lapped. This is on guns ranging from Remington, Savage, Winchester, Tikka, Ruger, Marlin, Mossberg, S&W, Magnum Research, TC, and Taurus.

So far, I haven't noticed a difference between the brands as far as some needing it more than others. They've all needed some, some needed more. If the rings are REALLY far off, I'll just switch to the Burris Signature rings. Normally I only use those when I want to have the option of built in elevation adjustment.

My thoughts run right along with Haugenna. I don't want to spend good money on a scope only to have it twisted and torqued in a set of misaligned rings. Plus, when I pull my scope off of the rifle it looks as good as new. Lapping the rings gives them a better grip on your scope so that the scope doesn't slip or get ring marks.

Andrew

[quadrafire]

Good information all.
Which lapping product do you use?
Could you use an old scope w/ lapping compound? or would the metal be too soft?

[yorketransport]

I use the Wheeler scope alignment kit.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=227261

If the rings are really bad, you could ream them, but I'd probably just use the Burris Signatures in that case.

Could you use an old scope w/ lapping compound? or would the metal be too soft?

I think that an old scope would be too soft, but it's worth a try. I have an old beat up Simmons that I might use to try it out.

Andrew

[huntandjeep]

I bought the wheeler kit also. Has everything you need in it. Kinda spendy but just charge friends,co-workers to get some $ back.

[GregMcFadden]

Pity you aren't in the tri-cities, I'd front you some money to borrow that from you

-Greg

[thinkingman]

I've never lapped and never regretting not lapping.

[quadrafire]

Here is another addition to the lapping post. Kind of interesting




Epoxy Method of Scope Mounting
  submitted by Paul Workman.
Based on an article by Rick Jamison of "Shooting Times" Magazine





Distortion of the scope tube (bending) can result in vertical or horizontal adjustments either sticking or not returning to the original set point after being adjusted for wind and elevation.  For example, sometimes an adjustment or two will produce no change in POI, and a subsequent adjustment results in a huge jump in one or sometimes both the vertical and horizontal directions.  Another example is the scope not returning to zero, even if the corrections are ultimately made in the same (“down and left” ) directions.

Scope tube bending can take place if the alignment of the rings is off by only a few thousandths of an inch.  This can occur as result of errors in the rings or the height of the receiver between the rings.  Further, if the axis of the rings are not in perfect alignment with relation to each other, the scope tube will be bent which can result in binding.  Both of these situations can exist whether a one or two piece scope base is used, depending on the rings and the base(s) used…in theory anyway.  And, there is some potential for distorting the tube by over-tightening the ring caps.

Lapping or epoxy can be used to correct the alignment problem.

Lapping has the advantage of being perhaps the fastest method from start to finish, but it must be done carefully and patiently to avoid creating more problems than the one intended to be solved.  The lapping tools wear out and a worn lapp can result in less than perfectly straight and aligned surfaces for the scope to rest in.  Constant and uniform pressure and elbow grease must be applied to a lapp in fresh & true condition.  And, even with the best of lapping jobs, the actual fit to the scope tube is almost never perfect:  The radius of the scope tube being less than the radius of the ring resulting from lapping – usually resulting in a two point hold when the scope tube is sandwiched between the bottom half of the ring and the top half.  The result is less grip on the scope often leading the shooter to over torque the cap screws in order to assure the tube doesn’t slip under recoil.  Thus the tube is distorted by taking on an oval at the point of ring contact; which may or may not cause a problem depending on degree of distortion and other factors.

Epoxy mounting solves the perfect fit problem. The epoxy exactly fills the gap between the bottom half of the rings and the body of the scope tube.   The fit is similar to that resulting from glass bedding the action into the stock; complete and continuous.  However, start to finish requires about 24 hours, depending on the epoxy used.  One the other hand, the epoxy method requires no elbow grease.

Epoxy Procedure:

After mounting the rings and aligning them to your specifications, remove the top half of the rings and degrease the contact (saddle) area of the bottom half.
Put release agent (I use wax or shoe polish) on all other ring surfaces to keep the epoxy from sticking to where it will ooze under pressure; don’t forget the screw holes.
Place a coating of metal impregnated (I use JB Weld) epoxy in the saddle of the bottom rings; about 1-2 mm (1/16th inch) thick and spread it evenly over the entire surface of the ring saddle.
After waxing the scope in the ring contact area, place it in the rings and hold it down firmly but gently in place with either a couple heavy rubber bands, or use the top half of the rings, tightening them down until the epoxy oozes out the sides.  Not too tight – just enough to seat the scope tube against the rings; but no more (it’s a feel thing).  (Note:  Only a rough orientation of the scope to the final position is required at this time.)
After the epoxy sets up to a stiff plastic consistency (about 6-8 hours @ 70° F for JB Weld), remove the scope and trim away the excess epoxy ooze (I use an Exacto knife), leaving only the layer in the bottom of the ring saddles.
Remount the scope and the rubber bands and let the epoxy cure (for a total of 24 hours if using JB Weld).
The secret to the scope staying put under recoil comes now:  Before you clamp it in place, use some powdered resin (available in sporting goods stores – I use a little bag intended for tennis) and powder the scope all around the tube in the area contacted by the rings.  After the scope is situated where you want it, tighten it in place, firmly without over doing it.

The resin will do the lions share of the holding – far better than the rings alone, in my experience.  The scope is now held in a mold making an exact fit – providing maximum contact.  Thus the resin/epoxy mounting applies tremendous holding ability compared to the point contact holding that usually results even after lapping.  This means less need to crank down on the top half of the scope rings, and thus lessening potential for distorting the scope due to over tightening the top half of the rings.

Not counting curing time, time spent aligning the rings and later the scope itself, the epoxy method requires less than 5 minutes actual effort.  Not often is easier better, especially when it comes to accuracy.

Good luck!
Paul W

[steelyonfly]

I looked into this a couple of months back and bought a lapping kit a Kokopelli 1" Accurizing Kit made in MT.  They also make one for 30mm or you can buy both.  It worked very well and I definitely got a nice and tight even fit.  At the range I did notice a difference in my group size - they shrunk to half the size - an inch to about a half inch.  I use Leupold bases and dual doveltail rings on front and back on both of my rifles.  They were off and needed to be lapped.  My next rifle setup will have the rings lapped.  I haven't tried the Burris rings, but I hear its a good product.

[addicted]

Many europeans will use epoxy, especially on the einhawkemontage and schenkmontage systems where any movement of the scop in the rings will cause a QD mounting system to no longer QD   

I've also seen guys use a brass hammer to mount rings on dovetail actions along with epoxy for a very perminant finish.

The scopes that get epoxied in and are removed several years later tend to go for pretty cheap because the epoxy takes off the finish at the ring points.

[Wacenturion]

These are what I use.  Game Reaper scope mounts.  No lapping required.  Lot of features that are better than steel mounts.....

http://www.dnzproducts.com/

[addicted]

dead nutz rings 

i was going to put them on my mountain rifle build..... but it looks like that may be different set up than i was planning making DNZ useless.

[quadrafire]

Anyone in spokane have a lapping kit they would swap for a weekend-- for say----a bottle of wine---or  case of beer--- or a bottle of booze??

[high country]

Quad, a 1" piece of tgp will work along with some compound. I have one you can use or for about $2.00 at cda metals you can have your own.

I bed bases with jb, but never a scope. I feel that if I am adding release, what can it do that a lapped surface can't? Bedded bases can add only a minute amount of stability.....but thousandths make inches.

[quadrafire]

Quad, a 1" piece of tgp will work along with some compound. I have one you can use or for about $2.00 at cda metals you can have your own.

I had thought about that. Thanks for the info.