Quad UltraRest issues? Fletch contact.

[lokidog]

I have a Bowtech Invasion with a Quad Ultra Rest Pro.  When first mounted, I was having contact issues with my fletches, cock vane up.  Had the bow tuned and thought things were taken care of.

I had six arrows fletched about a month ago, three with blazers and three with 4" to see if either would shoot better.  One fletch has come loose or fallen off three of the arrows.  I attributed this to using quick setting glue or the shaft not getting clean enough.  Today, I shot and on two more of the arrows, both hen vanes came half way off upon release.  I took a closer look at them and noticed contact marks on my remaing arrow's hen vanes.  My arrows are still hitting both sides of the rest upon release!

Has anyone else had any problems with this rest?  I am going to contact Quad on Monday and see if I can get a new one to try.  If not I think I'll get a Ripcord like my wife has on her bow.

[JLS]

I'm guessing it's either 1) an issue with the rest, which QAD should warranty, or 2) it's not set up right.  How is the cord attached to your cable?  I've had the little "football" dealy on my Ripcord move before, I now have it served in to the cable instead.

[lokidog]

The "football" is not moveable no matter how hard I try, so??

[JLS]

Could be the shop did not install and time it properly?

[Button Nubbs]

Make sure the lines on the lever and rest are even and one is not past or forward of the other. If that makes sense.

[Duffer]

Two thoughts starting with 'an obvious'. If you have fletching contact then your Invasion is not tuned. Contact like this (been there, done this) becomes a snowball effect. If you are trying to paper tune and your hens are hitting the rest (cock up) that pushes the arrow tail upward. To correct this situation the tuner adjusts the bow so during release the nock pushes the arrow's tail down and guess what.... the contact problem gets worse! See?

Secondly, my QAD works best when the string has got a little tension at full draw. Seems my QAD needs that bit of extra tension in order to 'snap' down as fast as possible.

You might try cock down just for fun, but I'll bet if you shot some paper without any fletchings that you will have a severe tail down situation.

Just my opinion tho! 

[lokidog]

I had a reputable archery shop tune it for me, they said the cams were out of adjustment.

It appears that the reference marks don't line up now and I thought they did when I got it back.  But, instead of being too lose, it looks like it is too tight by at least 3/16 inch.  I'll try it tomorrow and see how it goes.

Thanks for the suggestions.

[JLS]

If the cams just came out of adjustment, you might consider replacing your buss cable and/or string?  How old are they?

[lokidog]

Brand new last year spring.

[RadSav]

A couple things on the QAD that effect fall away.

#1 thing I find is that the QAD does not like short draw lengths.  If your bow has less than a 27" draw then the RipCord will be a better choice.  You might get the QAD to work, but it will drive you crazy getting to that point.

#2 thing I find is that after a tune the draw cord either puts too much tension on the rest or too little.  Both cause the same effect.  You want the cord to just barely pull into the hard wall beyond vertical launcher arm position.  You can actually damage the rest if you pull too hard against the wall.  Plus it effects the speed of return which will cause failure to trip.

#3 thing I find is the position of the football or draw cord anchor knot.  The QAD seems to work best when these are located very low on the cable.  Some shops like to make things look really clean by attaching to a cable slide or within an inch or so of the rest height.  I have yet to see one work consistently with the cord located that high.  Holding your bow at the ready position before draw the football should be at or near the middle of your wrist (about 3" below the rest) or lower.  For some odd reason this increases the whip effect upon release and helps increase it's repeatability.

#4 and final thing I find is cord interference.  I see this most often during cold winter months.  Especially if you are wearing a jacket with buttons or snaps on the wrist cuff.  It doesn't take much to effect the whip needed to consistently trip the rest.  You might not even feel it happen.  Powder up the rest and take off anything long sleeved and see what happens.

I have had at least one bow set up with the QAD since they first started making them.  It's a fine rest and the owners of the company are superb individuals.  They have made me several custom rests with "Semper Fi" etched for custom bows I've made for disabled Marines.  Never once did they charge me even the base rest cost.  Only thing they ever asked was that I thank these heroes for their sacrifice.

That being said the guys at RipCord are also first class individuals.  In the early days when they were having a few issues they bent over backwards to make things right.  There is no company in archery I can recall that takes customer service beyond the level of RipCord.  The RipCord is quickly becoming my favorite rest for all my non-remote travel bows.  Easy installation and reliable repeatability being the reason.

Good luck getting 'er right.

[Jellymon]

90% of issues with this rest are because the cord isn't tied in low enough on the cable. I wouldn't go higher than 3/4 down the grip, preferably at the bottom of the grip or a tad lower. If you do that and have the timing marks meet at about 1" from full draw that rest will perform amazingly well.

[lokidog]

Thanks Rad and others.

The cord is attached below the grip even with the string stop and stabilizer.  I don't think anything has touched the cord upon release.

My draw length is 29-30" so I think that may be out as an issue as well.

I have raised the "football" up 3/16 of an inch  and the reference mark still passes the other line by a hair.  I will probably try to shoot later today but I'm feeling like crap as some flu thing seemed to hit me last night.  Hopefully this is the issue. 

Unfortunately it seems that the shelf on this bow is quite high as there is little to ne clearance between it and the rest prongs in the down position.

I have learned this is a rest that you want to precock as the arrows seem to fly quite differntly if you don't.  My wife has the ripcord and it works nicely, not sure why I didn't just get one like hers....

[Button Nubbs]

I do it both ways, "cocked" and not, never noticed any difference either way. Maybe the football is slipping? Try seperating the string and serving it in?

[halflife65]

I'm tired of fighting rests - I have the QAD and had a NAP Apache before it and the $(@() cages get in the way so you can't properly tune the rest.  I'm going back to the old standby, the Trophy Taker Pronghorn.  Sure, it's kind of old school, doesn't have any fancy arrow containment systems but it just works.  Proven over and over again with many people over many years.  I had one on my Matthews Outback and should've just got another one for my Z7.  Plus, they don't cost much, relatively.

Good Lord, what has happened to me.  I sound like an old man...

[JLS]

If it shoots differently pre cocked vs. not, that makes me think that the rest is not timed right with your bow.

My Ripcord shoots identical regardless of cocked or not.

I don't think mine really has any clearance between the riser and the prongs when it's down.