Dodge Ram Codes

[Alchase]

OK, so yesterday I get in my 02 Ram 1500 (186k miles on it) and I get a "check engine" light. I do the key flip on and off to get the code, no go, no code shows up. I start driving to work and right away I notice my AC only works while moving. Similar to how a fan clutch going bad acts but with the AC. I'm ready to buy a OBDII scanner to get the code and clear it. I drive to O'Reilly's to get a break light and rear wiper for my wife's Durango, and ask about their scanners. The guy behind the counter says, "here just use ours", so I take his scanner out to my truck and blow a P1491 - Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit code. I google this and get a Check fuse #39  25 amp ac condenser fan motor relay in the fuse box. Bought a fuse pack, replaced the fuse. I could not get the scanner to clear the code, so I drove home and disconnected the negative battery terminal and turned the key to the on position for a few minutes. Put it back together, start it up, and I am golden

The more I though about how much money that would have cost if I had gone to a shop to fix 

I use to do almost all the repairs on my vehicles but as I got older and a little more irratated laying down on cold ground in the middle of winter to change out a tranny/clutch etc..., paying someong else to get busted knuckles nad dirtied up sounds a lot better, lol. Allot of these  check engine issues are way to easy to fix to have someon charge you a couple hundred in diagnostic and replacement.

So I decided to post up the Dodge codes that I have on my Iphone, The may be a more comprehensive list available from someone who works for Dodge/Chrysler (hint Hint Jackalope, lol) hopefully this will help some to fix the easier problems without getting raped by a shop.

It might be cool to list Ford ,Chevy, and the rest if you have them as well?

Dodge Code  Description

P1192
Inlet Air Temp. Circuit Low

P1193
Inlet Air Temp. Circuit High

P1195
1/1 O2 Sensor<http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/> http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/" \l " Slow During Catalyst Monitor

P1196
2/1 O2 Sensor Slow During Catalyst Monitor

P1197
1/2 O2 Sensor Slow During Catalyst Monitor

P1198
Radiator Temperature Sensor Volts Too High

P1199
Radiator Temperature Sensor Volts Too Low

P1281
Engine Is Cold Too Long

P1282
Fuel<http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/> Pump Relay Control Circuit

P1283
Idle Select Signal Invalid

P1284
Fuel Injection Pump Battery Voltage Out Of Range

P1285
Fuel Injection Pump Controller Always On

P1286
Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Supply Voltage Too High

P1287
Fuel Injection Pump Controller Supply Voltage Low

P1288
Intake Manifold Short Runner Solenoid Circuit

P1289
Manifold Tune Valve Solenoid Circuit

P1290
CNG Fuel Pressure Too High

P1291
No Temp Rise Seen From Fuel Heaters

P1292
CNG Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High

P1293
CNG Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low

P1294
Target Idle Not Reached

P1295
No 5 Volts To TP Sensor

P1296
No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor

P1297
No Change in MAP From Start To Run

P1298
Lean Operation At wide Open Throttle

P1299
Vacuum Leak Found (IAC Fully Seated)

P1388
Auto<http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/> Shutdown (ASD) Relay Control Circuit

P1389
No Auto Shutdown (ASD) Relay Output Voltage At PCM

P1390
Timing Belt Skipped One Tooth or More

P1391
Intermittent Loss of CMP or CKP

P1398
Mis-Fire Adapter Numerator at Limit

P1399
Wait To Start Lamp Circuit

P1403
No 5 Volts To EGR Sensor

P1475
Aux. 5 Volt Output Too High

P1476
Too Little Secondary Air

P1477
Too Much Secondary Air

P1478
Battery Temp Sensor Volts Out of Limit

P1479
Transmission Fan Relay Circuit

P1480
PCV Solenoid Valve

P1482
Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Shorted Low

P1483
Catalyst Temperature Sensor Circuit Shorted High

P1484
Catalytic Converter Overheat Detected

P1485
Air Injection Solenoid Circuit

P1486
Evap Leak Monitor Pinched Hose

P1487
Hi Speed Rad Fan CTRL Relay Circuit

P1488
Auxiliary 5 Volt Supply Output Too Low

P1489
High Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit

P1490
Low Speed Fan CTRL Relay Circuit

P1491
Rad Fan Control Relay Circuit
25 amp fuse (closest to engine and closest to radiator, white fuse)

P1492
Battery Temperature Sensor Voltage Too High

P1493
Battery Temperature Sensor Voltage Too Low

P1494
Leak Detection Pump Switch or Mechanical Fault

P1495
Leak Detection Pump Solenoid Circuit

P1496
5 Volt Supply Output Too Low

P1498
High speed Rad Fan Ground CTRL Rly Circuit

P1594
Charging System Voltage Too High

P1595
Speed Control Solenoid Circuits

P1596
Speed Control Switch Always High

P1597
Speed Control Switch Always Low

P1598
A/C Pressure Sensor Volts Too High

P1599
A/C Pressure Sensor Volts Too Low

P1602
PCM Not Programmed

P1680
Clutch Released Switch Circuit

P1681
No I/P Cluster CCD/J1850 Messages Received

P1682
Charging System Voltage Too Low

P1683
Speed Control Power<http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/dodge/> Relay Or Speed Control 12 Volt Driver Circuit

P1684
Battery Disconnected Within Last 50 Starts

P1685
Skim Invalid Key

P1686
No SKIM Bus Message Received

P1687
No Cluster Bus Message

P1688
Internal Fuel Injection Pump Controller Failure

P1689
No Communication Between ECM & Injection Pump Module

P1690
Fuel injection pump CKP Sensor Does Not Agree With ECM CKP Sensor

P1691
Fuel Injection Pump Controller Calibration Failure

P1693
DTC Detected In ECM Or PCM

P1694
No CCD Messages Received From ECM

P1695
No CCD/J185O Message From BCM

P1696
PCM Failure EEPROM Write Denied

P1697
PCM Failure SRI Mile Not Stored

P1698
No CCD Messages Received From PCM

P1719
Skip Shift Solenoid Circuit

P1740
TCC Or OD Solenoid Performance

P1756
Governor Pressure Not Equal To Target At 1520 PSI

P1757
Governor Pressure Above 3 PSI When Request Is 0 PSI

P1762
Governor Pressure Sensor Offset Improper Voltage

P1763
Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too High

P1764
Governor Pressure Sensor Voltage Too Low

P1765
Trans 12 Volt Supply Relay Control Circuit

P1899
Park/Neutral Position Switch Stuck In Park or In Gear


Hope this helps

[huntnphool]

Jackelope is a service guy for Dodge, he is always good about answering questions pertaining to the brand, in the event you should need help again.

I try to do as much work on my cars as I can but for me it's more because I enjoy it as a hobby, although I certainly do understand avoiding the costs involved with the dealerships, some cars can get very expensive in short order.

[netcoyote]

I use to do almost all the repairs on my vehicles but as I got older and a little more irratated laying down on cold ground in the middle of winter to change out a tranny/clutch etc..., paying someong else to get busted knuckles nad dirtied up sounds a lot better, lol.

Wow! Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.

There was a period of time when I was really busy working and just did not have time to mess with car repairs, I decided to turn the work over to shops. Tried a lot of em, some worked and some didn't. Over all, I figured I spent as much time arguing over sloppy work, re-doing a botched repair myself or just got tired of farmed-out work not lasting, that it was just more time efficient to continue to do most of the work myself. Really big and messy work on my trucks, I still have shops do, but there are very few that I trust.

First thing I do when I get a new rig is buy a "factory" service manual (not the cheap Hayes type) for the year, make and model of vehicle. They are pricey but I figure I have saved thousands of dollars over the years. Manual sources for used vehicles can be harder to find but they are out there. Factory manuals vary in quality but they are much more complete than the Hayes-type manuals and include all the trouble codes and have direct links to specific repairs to address the trouble codes. If you do your own work, they are essential.

BTW, I have two Dodge Rams now, the factory manual for the 1998 rig is three volumes thick. 

[jackelope]

Alchase-
Those are OBDII fault codes. They're the same for everything since 1996. Not specific to Dodge or Chevy or Ford or Toyota or whatever. Same language since the change was made from OBDI to OBDII.

The trouble people get into and they call us or shotgun and start throwing parts is when you get one of the codes you listed like...
P1283
Idle Select Signal Invalid
OR
P1296
No 5 Volts To MAP Sensor

What do you do to fix that?

Google is a great tool, and so are a lot of the web forums. The internet itself is a great tool for this kind of stuff.
The truth is that probably 95 of the customer pay work we get is from A-people who don't have the time to do this stuff themselves or their time is worth too much to them to spend it working on cars or B-they don't know which end of the screwdriver is up. The rest of it is from people who either had another shop try and fix something and they couldn't figure it out or from people who decided to quit throwing parts at stuff and cut their losses. The part that bugs me the most is when a shop takes a customer's car in, charges them $100-200 to diagnose their car and they can't figure it out and tell the people that they need to take it to the dealer. They still get charged the money but they got absolutely nothing for it. It would take more than both of my and both of your hands for me to count the number of times I have seen this happen. Thats the chitty part to this.

I'm happy to help whenever I can. I am not a tech and I have a little more than -zero- technical knowledge. I just know what we see a lot of and when it fits I am willing to use the tools I have at my disposal to help.
And believe me...I have a running list of folks on these forums who have chit talked the dealership service departments. Those people won't get free help from me on here ever.
 

[Alchase]

I hear you, some codes are easier then others. I have made the mistake in the past of just throwing parts at a problem, and ended up costing a lot more then if I had bit the bullet and taken it in, lol.

At best I figure these codes give us a place to start looking, but in some cases they give the outcome but not necessarily the cause.

[Alchase]

I did not realize they were not Dodge specific, that is good to know!

[et1702]

I'm happy to help whenever I can. I am not a tech and I have a little more than -zero- technical knowledge. I just know what we see a lot of and when it fits I am willing to use the tools I have at my disposal to help.
And believe me...I have a running list of folks on these forums who have chit talked the dealership service departments. Those people won't get free help from me on here ever.
 

I can't say enough good things about Jackelope.  Get your truck scheduled w/him at Kirkland Dodge.  Worth every penny!

ET

[Buckmark]

I agree with jackelope's statement.
It is unfortunate that people think shops are here to "rape" them, or that OBDII code reading and repair is really simple, some can be very basic and some can be frustrating.
OBDII systems help you by giving an area/function to start your diagnositcs, but not specifically what is broken/failed..
Good repair facilites (not your bottom feeder shops) are here really to help you, fix vehicles, make an honest living and have happy customers, we are not out to screw anyone...
Alchase i have to say i doubt the fuse replacment is the end of your repair, i bet the fan motor is failing hence the reason for the fuse failure, i may be wrong but its just a hunch.
Check this out:

NUMBER: 08-002-03

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: January 31, 2003

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 08-015-02, DATED SEPTEMBER 2, 2002, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES.

ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS**. THIS REVISES A TYPOGRAPHICAL ERROR IN THE TIME ALLOWANCE SECTION.

SUBJECT:
Condenser Fan Inoperative Due To Open Fuse

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a new condenser fan, shroud and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

MODELS:

2002      DR        (Ram Truck)

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

The condenser fan fuse (# 39) in the power distribution center may open leaving the condenser fan inoperative. This may be caused by a condenser fan with excessive current draw or by water collecting in a trough in the fan shroud and freezing in cold weather, which can prevent the fan from turning. This may illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL).

DIAGNOSIS:

If the vehicle exhibits the condition, perform the Repair Procedure.

[shoot-em-dead]

I think it is the same as most businesses, one bad apple ruins it for the rest. I am the type to fix it myself and I have found that most mechanic shops are very helpful with advice and some have done free diagnostics for me. The big dealerships have tight lips but slip them 20 and they give advice too.
It is the ones like Jack said that charge for something they didn't do that gets me angry. I bought my truck in February so I never checked to see if the ac worked. But summer it hot and I brought it to a dealership and they charged 600. It blew cold for a month . Then they wanted to charge the full amount again to fix it again.   That dealership went out of business about a year after they worked on my truck. I brought the truck to another place and they found that the ac pump itself was leaking and never charged me a dime. The price to fix it is just more than I am willing to spend on myself. I have now had the truck for 5 years and have to add refrigerant when I want it cold- most of the time I just sweat it out.

[Alchase]

I agree with jackelope's statement.
It is unfortunate that people think shops are here to "rape" them, or that OBDII code reading and repair is really simple, some can be very basic and some can be frustrating.
OBDII systems help you by giving an area/function to start your diagnositcs, but not specifically what is broken/failed..
Good repair facilites (not your bottom feeder shops) are here really to help you, fix vehicles, make an honest living and have happy customers, we are not out to screw anyone...
Alchase i have to say i doubt the fuse replacment is the end of your repair, i bet the fan motor is failing hence the reason for the fuse failure, i may be wrong but its just a hunch.
Check this out:

NUMBER: 08-002-03

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: January 31, 2003

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 08-015-02, DATED SEPTEMBER 2, 2002, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES.

ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS**. THIS REVISES A TYPOGRAPHICAL ERROR IN THE TIME ALLOWANCE SECTION.

SUBJECT:
Condenser Fan Inoperative Due To Open Fuse

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a new condenser fan, shroud and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

MODELS:

2002      DR        (Ram Truck)

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

The condenser fan fuse (# 39) in the power distribution center may open leaving the condenser fan inoperative. This may be caused by a condenser fan with excessive current draw or by water collecting in a trough in the fan shroud and freezing in cold weather, which can prevent the fan from turning. This may illuminate the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL).

DIAGNOSIS:

If the vehicle exhibits the condition, perform the Repair Procedure.

You may be right!

I was looking back through my maintenance receipts. Apparently I had the same problem back in 2004 and eventually had to replace the fan motor. It might have been done under service bulletin, can't tell by my old receipts.
Kinda falls into fixing the problem but not the cause, lol

Thanks for the headsup