broadhead tuning question

[DoubleJ]

When you make your final setup before hunting season, do you shoot the broadhead/arrow combo you'll have in the quiver in the woods at your target or do you tune your bow with a different broadhead/arrow quiver and leave your hunters sharp and unshot?

[92xj]

I use my hunting arrows that I fletch myself.  I shoot the exact same broadheads that I will be hunting with but replace them with unused ones the day before season. 

[snarkybull]

I shoot one or two with old replaceable blades to do the final tuning and then shoot one shot only with every arrow/broadhead combo that I will hunt with.  I fret, lose confidence, and maybe even freak out a little bit at the idea of an untested stick.

[Todd_ID]

Keep a set of old blades if you use replaceable heads, or resharpen heads that are solid, but I would advise against putting a new head on and then hunting.  I've got an arrow spinner that tells the logic behind this to some extent.  In a 3 pack of new heads they will all spin differently on the same arrow.  My experience has shown me that a head/arrow combination that does not spin true will not fly true.  Therefore, I would not hunt with a head I have not shot.  Even if it spins true, there's still a chance it flies different than another head that spins true on that same arrow: much less of a chance, granted, but bowhunting is not about chances for me.

[92xj]

Keep a set of old blades if you use replaceable heads, or resharpen heads that are solid, but I would advise against putting a new head on and then hunting.  I've got an arrow spinner that tells the logic behind this to some extent.  In a 3 pack of new heads they will all spin differently on the same arrow.  My experience has shown me that a head/arrow combination that does not spin true will not fly true.  Therefore, I would not hunt with a head I have not shot.  Even if it spins true, there's still a chance it flies different than another head that spins true on that same arrow: much less of a chance, granted, but bowhunting is not about chances for me.

Honest question here,
Do you practice and hunt with a single arrow? 
If you practice and hunt with more than just one arrow, what's your process or steps to choose the 3 or so arrows you practice with or take into the field to make sure they all fly exactly the same or have zero differences between the ones?
Seems to me that by praticing with one head and then replacing it with the same brand head would be the slimmest of changes, like going from one arrow and head to the next arrow and head while shooting.

I have reread this post numerous times and it kind of sounds like jerk post but not my intentions at all, just dont know how to word it differently.  Just trying to increase my knowledge and curious how you figure out which arrows match the others perfectly.

[Todd_ID]

Keep a set of old blades if you use replaceable heads, or resharpen heads that are solid, but I would advise against putting a new head on and then hunting.  I've got an arrow spinner that tells the logic behind this to some extent.  In a 3 pack of new heads they will all spin differently on the same arrow.  My experience has shown me that a head/arrow combination that does not spin true will not fly true.  Therefore, I would not hunt with a head I have not shot.  Even if it spins true, there's still a chance it flies different than another head that spins true on that same arrow: much less of a chance, granted, but bowhunting is not about chances for me.

Honest question here,
Do you practice and hunt with a single arrow? 
If you practice and hunt with more than just one arrow, what's your process or steps to choose the 3 or so arrows you practice with or take into the field to make sure they all fly exactly the same or have zero differences between the ones?
Seems to me that by praticing with one head and then replacing it with the same brand head would be the slimmest of changes, like going from one arrow and head to the next arrow and head while shooting.

I have reread this post numerous times and it kind of sounds like jerk post but not my intentions at all, just dont know how to word it differently.  Just trying to increase my knowledge and curious how you figure out which arrows match the others perfectly.

In a dozen arrows and a dozen broadheads you should find a quiver-full worth of ones that shoot the same, but that's only if you're lucky.  A Hooter Shooter will put the same arrow in the same hole each shot, but across a dozen top-grade arrows only 3-6 will hit that same spot; the same goes for broadheads.  Put the combination together, and you'll get enough to hunt confidently with.

I see what you're asking: "where do you draw the line, because I'm not a Hooter Shooter?"  That's up to you, but just don't buy a dozen arrows and a dozen broadheads and randomly put them together and hunt.  Unfortunately, that's exactly what 90% of the bowhunters do without knowing there's a better way, and they end up with a single lung shot that otherwise could have been a double lung and never know that their lack of equipment knowledge was the reason they didn't find that cow.

Do the best you can to sort arrows by how they fly for you and resharpen the heads and then hunt; that's about the best most of us can do.  An arrow spinner is worth it's cost.  A broadhead that doesn't spin true won't fly true: ever; that's the first step to getting into the 10%.  When you figure out the rest of the steps let me know because I'd like to be there too.    Once you get the spinner, then you can change broadhead/arrow combinations until you find some combinations that spins true.  Hopefully in that dozen arrows and heads you'll get enough of those that spin true and also fly true that go in the quiver.

[Fullabull]

OK...so I had to find a few arrows that worked well until I started using an arrow squaring tool. I was able to make quite a few more of my arrows fly true due to using the squaring tool to make sure they all spin true when you put your broadheads on them.

You will always have a few arrows that spin true but many will not, especially after shooting them for quite a while. Spin all of them one at a time with a broadhead on and if it does not spin true, use the arrow squaring tool on the arrow until you can put the broadhead back on and have it spin true. I have greatly increased the number of arrows I can use during hunting season by doing this. All you are really doing is tuning you arrows which is WAY important!!!

G5 make a good one you can use on Carbon and aluminum arrows...

[Todd_ID]

I'm trying to stay un-technical here, but since it was brought it up: yes, the G5 ASD will save a few combinations here and there that would otherwise be put into the field point category.  This will get you to 6 in 12 or 7 in 12 that you agree with the way they fly.  Go another step to aligning the nocks with the spline of the arrow will get you 1-2 more, but the other 7 that were good from the previous steps will be exactly the same, or at least as close as any of us (including Alwine) can shoot.  Beyond this you're talking about arrow spine and weight: no, each arrow does not weigh the same or have the same spine, nor does each broadhead in the pack weigh the same.