Buying a diesel truck

[WaltAlpine]

For what it's worth, I have a '99 F-350 Crewcab with a 7.3. It's coming up on 250,000miles. I have towed a lot in the past, but not as much recently. It is completely stock with the exception of a KandN air filter. I have only done what I would consider normal maintenance and repair...ball joints, brakes, etc. No tranny issues at all. I have never been much for arguing over brand names, but I love this truck. Basically trouble free and has pulled a lot up some steep stuff, and quickly.

[et1702]

http://www.cars.com/go/search/detail.jsp?tracktype=usedcc&csDlId=&csDgId=&listingId=102853138&listingRecNum=5&criteria=sf1Dir%3DDESC%26drvTrnId%3D27105%26mkId%3D20012%26stkTyp%3DU%26mdId%3D21802%26rd%3D100000%26crSrtFlds%3DstkTypId-feedSegId-mkId-mdId-yrId-drvTrnId-transTypeId%26zc%3D98019%26rn%3D0%26PMmt%3D1-1-0%26stkTypId%3D28881%26sf2Dir%3DASC%26sf1Nm%3Dprice%26yrId%3D20144%26sf2Nm%3Dmiles%26isDealerGrouping%3Dfalse%26transTypeId%3D28112%26rpp%3D50%26feedSegId%3D28705&aff=gogsema&listType=1

If my truck was dying, here's my next truck.  Already has 5th wheel rails in bed and only 38,000mi on an 06 Dodge.

ET

[hollymaster]

censored for language, please leave out the profanity, this is a family site....

[jburkett]

Dodges have weak front ends.

compared to what?  I have owned several dodges and have never had any trouble with the front ends, it's a Dana 60 front in the 3/4 tons,  that has been a proven work horse since the 60's and its miles stronger then the I.f.s garbage that some of the other brands come with.

z

Ball joints, axle ujoints, steering components. If you own a 2500/3500 10 years old or newer, you will replace them at some point...I will almost guarantee it. We did BJ's in a '10 the other week. Not a good sign.
I wasn't talking about the differential.

My 05 has just shy of 100k on it and I haven't had any of these  issues.  My brother, and three of my hunting buddies also drive dodges of the same generation and they haven't had these problems either.  Maybe we just got the five good ones.?

[jackelope]

I work for Dodge. I know the problems they have. Look around on the web if you think I'm bonkers. They are known issues with those trucks. I'm not putting them down or smack talking. There are 4-5 guys who are members of this forum that have had ball joints and/or front axle universal joints replaced by my guys. A couple of them have posted in this thread. I'm not making stuff up, I am surrounded by these trucks 55 hours a week give or take a few. Yes you may have got lucky but I bet if you brought the 5 good ones here I'd find some ball joints that are loose. Just a hunch.

[predatorpro]

now correct me if im wrong jackelope, but on some dodge diesels like my 03 ball joints dont need to be replaced until 15 degrees of play...to the normal person that would be alot of play for a ball joint, mine have play in them and i got 20,000 on my tires and they still look brand new, but im just saying this cuz the computer told me this when i worked at schwabs lol according to their parts and notes on their system and they probly got it from dodge, i know there was a lot of dodges that would come in and kids would tell them they need new ball joints and i would have to be like no....not until they move 15 degrees while in the air...i have heard the same thing from other dodge fanatics about this

[Jason]

I work for Dodge. I know the problems they have. Look around on the web if you think I'm bonkers. They are known issues with those trucks. I'm not putting them down or smack talking. There are 4-5 guys who are members of this forum that have had ball joints and/or front axle universal joints replaced by my guys. A couple of them have posted in this thread. I'm not making stuff up, I am surrounded by these trucks 55 hours a week give or take a few. Yes you may have got lucky but I bet if you brought the 5 good ones here I'd find some ball joints that are loose. Just a hunch.

My work truck is an 07 mega cab 4x4 2500 5.9 158,000 miles and had all the ball joints replaced 2 years ago, just had the shocks done two weeks ago.

[colockumelk]

2007.5 and after have DPF so the mileage is not as good either,2005-2007 would be good yrs to look at in the GMC or Chevy

Sweet I have a 2005 GMC. I absolutely love it.

[jburkett]

I work for Dodge. I know the problems they have. Look around on the web if you think I'm bonkers. They are known issues with those trucks. I'm not putting them down or smack talking. There are 4-5 guys who are members of this forum that have had ball joints and/or front axle universal joints replaced by my guys. A couple of them have posted in this thread. I'm not making stuff up, I am surrounded by these trucks 55 hours a week give or take a few. Yes you may have got lucky but I bet if you brought the 5 good ones here I'd find some ball joints that are loose. Just a hunch.

I'm not questioning your sanity, I have just never expirianced these issues with any of my trucks.

[jackelope]

now correct me if im wrong jackelope, but on some dodge diesels like my 03 ball joints dont need to be replaced until 15 degrees of play...to the normal person that would be alot of play for a ball joint, mine have play in them and i got 20,000 on my tires and they still look brand new, but im just saying this cuz the computer told me this when i worked at schwabs lol according to their parts and notes on their system and they probly got it from dodge, i know there was a lot of dodges that would come in and kids would tell them they need new ball joints and i would have to be like no....not until they move 15 degrees while in the air...i have heard the same thing from other dodge fanatics about this

for lowers...with a dial indicator, truck off the ground....
 2. Attach a dial indicator (2) with the indicator resting on the flat part of the steering knuckle (1) by the lower ball stud. 3. Set the dial indicator (2) to zero.
 4. Pry between the knuckle (4) and the axle tube yoke next to the upper ball joint (2), Record the reading on the dial indicator This will be the first reading.
 5. Set the dial indicator (2) back to zero. 6. Set up a jackstand (3) and use a long prybar (1) to lift the knuckle assembly

[jackelope]

7. Pry upwards on the flat part of the steering knuckle (5) next to the ball joint stud and nut (2) using the jackstand as leverage. Record the reading on the dial indicator This will be the second reading. 8. Add the two reading together for a total lower ball joint movement, If this reading is above 2.29 mm (0.090 inch) then replacement of the lower ball joint is necessary.


Uppers....
 2. Attach a dial indicator (3) with the indicator resting on either the front or back sides of the steering knuckle (4) as close to the upper ball joint (1) as possible. 3. Set the dial indicator(3) to zero. 4. Grab the tire by pushing in on the top of the tire and pulling out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator (3) This will be the first reading. 5. Set the dial indicator (3) back to zero. 6. Grab the tire by pulling in on the top of the tire and pushing out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator (3) This will be the second reading. 7. Add the two reading together for a total upper ball joint movement, If this reading is above 1.52 mm (0.060 inch) then replacement of the upper ball joint is necessary.

[6x6in6]

7. Pry upwards on the flat part of the steering knuckle (5) next to the ball joint stud and nut (2) using the jackstand as leverage. Record the reading on the dial indicator This will be the second reading. 8. Add the two reading together for a total lower ball joint movement, If this reading is above 2.29 mm (0.090 inch) then replacement of the lower ball joint is necessary.


Uppers....
 2. Attach a dial indicator (3) with the indicator resting on either the front or back sides of the steering knuckle (4) as close to the upper ball joint (1) as possible. 3. Set the dial indicator(3) to zero. 4. Grab the tire by pushing in on the top of the tire and pulling out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator (3) This will be the first reading. 5. Set the dial indicator (3) back to zero. 6. Grab the tire by pulling in on the top of the tire and pushing out on the bottom of the tire. Record the reading on the dial indicator (3) This will be the second reading. 7. Add the two reading together for a total upper ball joint movement, If this reading is above 1.52 mm (0.060 inch) then replacement of the upper ball joint is necessary.

My '05 3500 is on set #3 of ball joints.  118k.  Hopefully this set will last something more than 30k.  I switched over to XRF joints.
4 axle shaft joints, an 07.5 steering upgrade and I might get to see 150k without pouring any more $ into the front end.
My '07 2500 isn't a whole lot better.  68k and it is ball joint set #2.  Had the 07.5 steering upgrade and axle shaft joints done at 40k.
It's only money.....

For fuel economy, it's the 03 and '04 555 5.9's
Of the 610's, the '05 gets the best fuel economy of '05 to '07's.
In 2006, the head porting is slightly opened up over the 2006.  This was done due to to the 3rd injection event that is done for emission purposes which caused the 2005's to have an elevated egt. 
2007 the fuel economy got worse, slightly.

Get an EFI Live programming license.  Download the stock injection event cycling in a 2006 and 2007.  You will see that the ECM is programmed to actually de-fuel during acceleration.  Odd, yes!!!  With an EFI Live custom tune, this de-fuel can be eliminated.  You gain hp and tq in the power band when we would like to have it.  You also gain mpg because you are not using as much go on the skinny pedal.  My '07 went from a 16.5 mpg stock to 19.2 mpg just by cleaning up the de-fueling.  This is with 35-12.50x18 Toyo MT's too.  Too bad it's an auto.
My '05, after throwing a pair of turbos, injectors and  cam shaft in it went from 17 to almost 21 mpg.  I'll never re-coup the parts cost, but what the heck, an 800hp tow rig is kind fun.   

[snocohunter]

I wish that 06 dodge was in my price range. I could swing it but trying to be responsible and have money to buy parts 

 Dealer in Burlington has an 03 with 60k manual trans they are asking $27k. He said that's what they are worth supply and demand.

[JLS]

Just to show the other side of the coin (not in any way questioning Jackelope's input), my 99 had 158k miles on it when it went to the wrecking yard and still had the original ball joints, u joints, clutch, tranny on it.  I changed the lift pump several times, the wheel bearings, steering stabilizer, and track bar.  Pretty light maintenance if you ask me.

My 04 has 210k miles (almost all freeway).  Since I bought it at 200k miles I've replaced the shocks, stabilizer bushings, and the rear u joint.

[Jim Sr.]

Don't let em BS ya, they need to sell vehicles bad & will try to beat ya up bad in the process. Personally I would not touch anything older than 4 yrs & miles under 125K, it can be done.
In June of this year I bought a 2008 F350 XLT 4x4, CC, LB, 6.4 PSD, auto, manual hubs, new 35" tires on new 20" wheels for $25K. Don't get caught up in a deal unless all the boxs are checked off of your wish list, stick to it & don't settle for less, you will regret it in the long run.

Good luck