Shooting tips/lessons

[RhinoPhyre]

Hi,

I first shot a bow when I was a kid, but haven't shot for about 12 years or so.  I started up again in February, and have been shooting every day (or close to it) since.

I have discovered that I am quite blind in my right eye, so I am left-eye dominant now (wasn't as a kid).  I can't handle the change to left-handed shooting, so I've had to compensate by using a rear sight to line up my shots instead of a peep sight.  I'm not going to win any target shoots, but that's not really the goal here, so I can live with that.

So, shooting at 35-ish yards, this is how I'm doing.
Best day, 3-inch circle.
Most days, 6-inch circle.
Coming back after a few days off: 12-inch or worse. (this doesn't last more than a single day though)

But no matter what I do, I can't seem to get any better (reliably) than that 6-inch circle (and the center of that circle may be up to 6 inches from target too, in a random direction).  The line from my eye through the rear sight and front sight is constant, and on-target.  The stance and hold on the bow-string feels constant.  This should give me a constant shot, on the target (or at least a predictable offset from the target, which I could fix by moving my sights). 

So, has anyone got any advice (besides "shoot left-handed" please, I just can't get my head around doing that) - or recommend anywhere I could get some lessons?  (I'm on Whidbey island, but can travel anywhere in King, Island or most of Snohomish/Skagit or Pierce/Thurston counties, or perhaps Kitsap pr the peninsula from Port Townsend down).

Thanks,
Rich

[dmr400]

Rich,

Can you post a picture of your setup? I'm having a tough time picturing it.  See your PM's too.

[hughjorgan]

Great Northwest Archery in Puyallup does lessons. Give Doug a call. Here is a link http://www.gnwarchery.com/

[RhinoPhyre]

Thanks for the tip, Puyallup looks like a good stop next time I'm down there

I've uploaded some pics of the bow setup, some videos of me shooting it, and some close-ups of me at anchor (and one at follow-through, slow shutter finger ).  Some of the videos end early, but they should show enough.

There's also some pics of the groupings.  They're a little low, today, one right, one left, and one just low, but tomorrow they may be high, or right, or something else...  these groupings are about as bad as it gets, usually (it's a Monday, so haven't shot for a few days).  They're about 6 inches between the furthest arrows, maybe a little more on one of them.

You should be able to see them on this link - it's shared publically, so shouldn't need an account or anything to see.  If that doesn't work, I'll try again.

https://plus.google.com/photos/109597753817527905327/albums/5872435104398631777?authkey=CKu5oNmVx4GVqAE

[sakoshooter]

I'd second the lesson. Start off with proper form etc and your shooting will improve much faster than not. i can second GNW Archery also.

[SniperDanWA]

I agree with GNW Archery.  We have bought several bows there and accessories.  Doug will treat you right.

[Special T]

Stop in at Riverside archery on old memorial hwy in Mt Vernon. Show Gary your setup and explain your issue. I think they do some instruction. 3604248849

[jechicdr]

Don't see why you need a peep still in the string when you have your bow set up with the hindsight.  In theory, you should be able to set up a hindsight (possibly may need some modification to get it far enough to the left) and your bow sight far enough to the left to use your left eye to line up the sight picture while keeping your head in a more neutral position (in your pictures you have your head tilted like you are forcing something to line up).  Problem with using your head to line up the picture is that the head can change position and still line up the sight if you are torquing the bow or if your head is in a different position (up or downhill shots), you may torque the bow to line up the sights.  If you set up your hindsight to line up with your left eye line of sight with the head in a relaxed upright position, reproducibility would increase.  The other thing to consider is that the arrow is lined up more closely with the right eye and so is probably pointed toward your left relative to the line of sight of your left eye on release, the arrow at the bow will be 3 inches to the right of your sight picture but would cross the line of your left eye at some point.  If you set it up so that point was say, 30 yards, then at 15 yards arrow would be 1.5 inches to the right and at 45 yards about 1.5 inches to the let.  I could live with that in a hunting bow, but you need to take all of that into account at longer yardages and small targets.  I would probably try and set that cross over point to about half the longest distance you shoot (place where your arrow hits neither left or right of where the pin sits).

You might consider the Anchor sight.  It runs about $85.00.  You could probably adjust it to line up the bow without any modifications.  You would probably still need a pin sight that can be mounted far enough to the left to line up with your left eye though.  In the shooting instructions, they have you line up the string with the ring on the anchor sight which is not likely possible with the left eye but if you have some vision in the right, you could line up your string using your right.  If your right eye vision is good enough, you might also try lining up the bow and anchor sight with your right eye but line up the pin with your target with your left.  If you cannot see well enough with the right, you may have to skip the lining up of the string and just line up with the left eye but consistency may not be as good without that second alignment.  To set it up, you draw and stand in the most neutral position you can (head upright, hand anchored to a reproducible anchor point on cheek/ear/jaw/whatever, no torque on the grip).  You want good form as well (all of your bones lined up along the line of the arrow).  Then just adjust the anchor sight so it lines up, rather than trying to line yourself up with the anchor sight.  After that, if you draw to that easily reproduced position, you should be lined up and all you have to do is put your pin on the target.  You would still have to remember the left and right variation on the arrow at close and long distances though.

If you look at the picture below, imagine your pins moved over further to the left.  You would line up using the right but focus on the target with your left.

[bloodhound]

umm first thing i noticed is the draw length on your bow is too short by about a half to an inch short. your string should be touching the tip of your nose at full draw. improper draw length can make your shots erratic.

[PA BEN]

I just got back into shooting a bow this year after 7 years. I hunted and shot bows for 20 years before I moved to the wet side 8 years ago. I picked up a new bow and it had a Whisker Biscuit rest on it. My best group at 20yds was 4", I put my fall away rest off my old bow on and I don't shoot the same bulls eye for fear of braking arrows. I now have a trophy taker smack down rest and love it. If you are looking for tight groups that Whisker Biscuit needs to go. Just my 

[dmr400]

Rich,

Read the PM I sent you regarding draw length.  Here is the picture I was talking about.  Notice that the line drawn down from the front curvature of the eye is near the back of the arrow shaft (the shaft, not the nock).  This is a good starting point for draw length.  If you aren't somewhere near this when your bow arm is extended comfortably, you might need to have your DL changed.


Credit for the photo goes to nuts&bolts over on archerytalk.com.  Very knowledgable and has put together a ton of reference pictures.  This particular one is of Randy Ulmer.  All i did was add the yellow line, rest of it is Alan's.

[dmr400]

Also, if your draw length meets the criteria above but your anchor isn't comfortable or consistent, experiment with the length of your D-loop or release rope depending on what system you use.  A good guideline is:

• Bow controls draw length (extension of bow arm and where the arrow comes to on your face).
  
• D-Loop or release rope length controls forward and back position of anchor point.
  
• Length of release controls where the trigger falls on your finger (preferably in the crease of the first knuckle, closest to your hand, NOT near the tip).
  
  

Trying to adjust any of these things with the incorrect component will lead to shot execution issues. Examples:

• Changing draw length to adjust anchor point will lead to poor alignment.
  
• Changing D-Loop length to adjust draw length will result in a less than optimal anchor point.
  
• Changing release length to alter anchor point will put your finger in a less than optimal position for a good suprise/back tension shot.