howling

[jdb]

any experts on this? this morning I made a couple stands and on the second stand as soon as I hit the foxpro a coyote howled, so I howled back and we went back and forht for quite some time I then tried a coyote puppy distress and nothing anyone have any tips on howling? when, how, anything? thanks JB

[Timberstalker]

Howling will work substantially better when it is closer to Feb/March.  This is the breeding season and I have my most success during this time with a challenge howl.  it flat-ass works.  Give it a try.

[AWS]

I used to use a howler more but have been calling as many hunters as coyotes and use it sparingly especially when I'm calling public lands.

AWS

[Bofire]

I use howls alot. puppy whimpers more. a little later in the season is better for howls but it is my MOST effective sound.
Howl back the way they howl.
You must learn the sounds, some howls mean different things. What was the sound like? mellow howls or strident distress sounds?
If it was strident, they busted you!
Carl

[jake]

the main reason that i use a howl is to locate the dogs, if you get them to howl back you have a general direction in which they are, plus if you get them to howl you have there attention so if you start a distress call shortly after you will get results, but as stated before, if they start howling right at your feet or with in a couple hundred yards after you have been calling for a while......you are busted, so try to get eyes on them and let the lead fly

[tlbradford]

jdb - In your situation where the coyote howled at you immediately after your first sound, It typically means that coyote isn't going to come into your call.  I don't know why, they could be full, you are outside their core territory, there could be physical barriers between you and them, or any combination of reasons.  Having said that, we all know that a lot of coyotes like to travel with other coyotes, so you may call in one that is not howling back at you.  My advice is to stick with distress sounds early in the year and finish out the stand.  Then I would move as close as possible, as long as you can approach discreetly, to the coyote that was howling at you.  Then give it a different distress sound that you didn't use on the previous stand, or a single high pitched howl and wait.  Hopefully you have approached close enough to the home turf of the loudmouth, so they are enticed to come have a look.

The only time I copy the howling of a coyote that is howling back at me is when it is a challenge howl or a warning bark.  If it is a challenge howl, I will offer up a couple of my own and shut-up.  I want this coyote to come looking for me, not talk to me.  I have still never seen a coyote howl and move at the same time.  If it is a warning bark, I will give it back until I am in a position, or my buddy is in a position to shoot.  The only other scenario when I want to keep them talking is if I am having someone approach the coyote and shoot them from a concealed position.

Starting a stand with a one or two lone howls, waiting five minutes, and then going to distress sounds is a good all around recipe, especially late November through March.  A lot of experienced callers believe that the howl is a confidence call and puts the incoming coyotes at ease believing that if a coyote is howling from that area, there must not be any danger.  Others believe that a strange howl will induce a territorial response if you are in the family groups kitchen. 

Remember if you are calling September through November, there are a lot of young of the year and they will be easily intimidated by a howl.  I am not saying it won't work this time of year, but I prefer to finish a stand off with howls early in the year, and then use them at the beginning of a stand later on.  With howling less is more.  The exception to that rule is when locating coyotes in the evening, then simulating a group of coyotes howling seems to get the most answers.

[Machias]

That is some really good advice there!

[runniNgunnin]

remember also when you are doing this kind of calling, it takes patience. they will not be coming in on a rope, they are either curious, or investigating. most people make the mistake of getting up and spooking something away.

[runniNgunnin]

th easiest way to learn the correct way to "howl" is to watch a Randy Anderson video... this is gonna sound stupid, lol but "learn the language" HA

[Gutpile]

Starting a stand with a one or two lone howls, waiting five minutes, and then going to distress sounds is a good all around recipe, especially late November through March.  A lot of experienced callers believe that the howl is a confidence call and puts the incoming coyotes at ease believing that if a coyote is howling from that area, there must not be any danger.  Others believe that a strange howl will induce a territorial response if you are in the family groups kitchen. 

I almost always start with a howl. I've called in three this year, killed two and made a bad hit on #3. Started doing that a few years ago and it does improve my success. No matter the time of year, I just howl then wait a bit and start with distress calls.  It flat works awesome in Jan. Feb. In fact many times I have a yote show up before I'm finished with my first series of howls. Lot's of guys say I shouldn't and thats fine but I ALWAYS howl. Going out tomorrow, hope to flop a couple. WooHoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[demontang]

If he howled after the call started you where busted I bet, where you out in the LT area? I never howl tell breeding season because everyone and there dog does it and the coyote know what it means. The howl does seem to be a good way to locate them but I have never called one in after I have used a howl.

In high pressure areas I have never had luck with any coyote sound but pup in distress, I try and stick to other distress calls and then after I'm done with the others and nothing comes I will use pup in distress for 1min shut it off for 5min then again for 1min then off tell I'm ready to break the stand. I have gotten 6 coyotes this year doing it like that.