Arrow trajectory below 20 yards

[darren]

I have started shooting my new PSE Drive LT rig. This is my first experience with a "real" archery setup. Thanks again to folks who provided feedback on this brand and model in an earlier thread. I am overall delighted with it and have been shooting a little bit every day, building up my strength and trying to improve my accuracy.

My question has to do with arrow flight less than 20 yards, which seems to be the minimum range people set their sights for. I have noticed that over much shorter ranges -- a few yards say -- my arrow often hits right of my aim point by 4-8 inches and comes to a stop in the target with a leftward cant (i.e., appears as though I released the arrow from a stance to the right of where I'm actually standing). I know just enough about spine, flex and archer's paradox to be dangerous, so I thought I would ask here: is there an effective minimum range on your average hunting bow? Does shooting close like this risk damaging a carbon shaft?

[Smossy]

Sounds like your porpusing and need to do somme very miner adjustments. Its normal for alot of people though due to the flex of the arrow being forced away from your string. It only really does that in the first 10 yards or so unless somethings really outa whack. Radsav will chime in soon enough with a scientific explination lol

[4fletch]

one way to check arrow flight is to make a frame butcher paper or masking paper streched staple or thumb tacks to hold it to frame place your target block 3 feet behind the paper use field points smear grease on point lipstick , shoot through the paper at 4 feet away the spot where the arrow impacts will clearly be marked by the sipstick the tail of the arrow will tear vertically and or horiz away from the center point this indicates wobbly arrow flight  fishtailing side to side or porpoising up or down . to correct wobble adjust your arrow rest or nocking point on the string . for tail right or left tears move the arrow rest rt or left. So if you don t want to go threw the trouble of makeing a frame etc most all archery shops have one  hope this helps

[darren]

That makes sense, thank you. So 4 feet out from the front of the bow the arrow should be flying straight, no more flex, etc?


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[4fletch]

yes your holes threw the paper ahould look like you are looking at the end of the arrow

[kentrek]

Also, at least with my bow..at the closer ranges such as sub 5 yards
I gota use my longer range pins for reference


This is mostly for shooting in thick brush country an avoiding limbs..if a critter is that close all your pins seem to work ! 

[4fletch]

Long ago in the 1970 to 80 I use to shoot instinctive compound didn't t have to range or look for pins that was really cool

[sakoshooter]

Unless you've got the tools and knowhow, I'd take it back to the shop you bought it from and ask them to paper tune it for you. It sounds like your rest is off by quite a bit or you're gripping the bow with a death grip and torquing it badly at the release.
A relaxed grip at full draw and release without grabbing the bow at the shot - you can do this at home to see if it eliminates your problem. If not, have your shop paper tune it.

[Come Get Some]

Shooting thru paper is only a starting point. To properly group down range you will not shoot a bullet hole in the paper at close range. I would suggest walk back tuning. Make sure you are sighted in at 20 yds. Shoot an arrow at a blank bale. Walk back to 30 yds and shoot at the first knock using your 20 yd pin. You should drop below your first shot since you have increased your distance by 10 yds. If you hit left move your rest slightly right to bring your arrow under the first shot. It will take very little movement to get your arrow to come over. If you hit right move left. You should be able to go to 80 yds and shoot an arrow and have it drop directly below the dot . You will need proper arrow spine and have your rest set at the proper height  as well . Set it up slightly knock high , if you use an arrrow level you want to crowd the bubble to the high side.
 As far as shooting closer distances, with my target set up if I shoot 4 yds , I will have to set my sight for49 yds to hit the center of the dot. 2 yds is the same as 64 yds.
 Send me a pm if you have any questions

  Jim

[Smossy]

French tuning is much more efficient than walk back tuning. It takes less than half the time also.
Start by hanging a string about shoelace size down the middle of the target. Start by shooting from 3 yards = 9 feet. Adjust your "SIGHT" Untill you hit the string.
Then... once youve contacted string, move back to 9 yards = 27 feet and shoot adjust your "REST" until you contact string. Once your centered on both of those all your ranges should shoot true.

[darren]

Unless you've got the tools and knowhow, I'd take it back to the shop you bought it from and ask them to paper tune it for you. It sounds like your rest is off by quite a bit or you're gripping the bow with a death grip and torquing it badly at the release.
A relaxed grip at full draw and release without grabbing the bow at the shot - you can do this at home to see if it eliminates your problem. If not, have your shop paper tune it.

Turns out this was my issue. Or, more likely, one of my issues. Haha. I was over gripping my bow hand. I tried both no fingers on the bow hand (just thumb pad) and light pressure with a couple fingers plus bow pad and that cleaned things up dramatically. No more left-right, only hitting slightly low with the 20 yard pin. Maybe the low hit is explained by what Jim mentioned with the 4 yard range lining up with the ~50 yard pin, etc. Not sure.

Thanks for the feedback folks, I appreciate it.

[Come Get Some]

French tuning is much more efficient than walk back tuning. It takes less than half the time also.
Start by hanging a string about shoelace size down the middle of the target. Start by shooting from 3 yards = 9 feet. Adjust your "SIGHT" Untill you hit the string.
Then... once youve contacted string, move back to 9 yards = 27 feet and shoot adjust your "REST" until you contact string. Once your centered on both of those all your ranges should shoot true.

 More efficient? Half the time??? It is exactly the same, except you are aiming at a shoelace instead of your nock. It is usually done in 1-2 arrows if you can shoot at all. As soon as you move back to 9 yds you WALKED BACK
 30 yds gives you more of a spread and more likely to be more accurate.

[Smossy]

French tuning is much more efficient than walk back tuning. It takes less than half the time also.
Start by hanging a string about shoelace size down the middle of the target. Start by shooting from 3 yards = 9 feet. Adjust your "SIGHT" Untill you hit the string.
Then... once youve contacted string, move back to 9 yards = 27 feet and shoot adjust your "REST" until you contact string. Once your centered on both of those all your ranges should shoot true.

 More efficient? Half the time??? It is exactly the same, except you are aiming at a shoelace instead of your nock. It is usually done in 1-2 arrows if you can shoot at all. As soon as you move back to 9 yds you WALKED BACK
 30 yds gives you more of a spread and more likely to be more accurate.

Oh ok.