Help me out.

[bankwalker]

I have a cva buckhorn .50 cal. and need to go buy everything needed to kill an elk.
What bullets and powder would you suggest.

Would Hornady sst 250gr work?
Which is better powder, or the pre measured pellets.
Do I need patches.
What other accessories should I buy. I already have 3 speed loaders.

[JimmyHoffa]

I would go with loose powder if only using no. 11 caps or musket caps.  If you plan on using 209 shotgun primers when legal, then the pellets seem to be a good alternative.

[Bigtine96]

I shoot 50 grain pyrodex pellets and musket caps and have never had a problem. That is all I will ever shoot..

[Sabotloader]

I shoot 50 grain pyrodex pellets and musket caps and have never had a problem. That is all I will ever shoot..

Pyro pellets can work... Pyrp pellets have a blackened end that is true Black Powder. so if you load the blackened end down in the bore the cap easily ignites the BP which ignites the pellet. 

T7 pellets do not have this option.  There is nor real advantage to using regular T7 pellets over Pyro pellets as the T7 pellets are loaded down to Pyro performance.  Well there is one advantage T7 is not near as corrosive as the Pyro pellets.

 

[syoungs]

I don't see the benefit of using pellets, not much faster, if it is at all out of a speed loader, and I didn't have 100% reliability using any pellets out of my CVA optima v2 or my cva wolf.

both mentioned guns like the 250g sst, no patches or lubes needed, the optima like a 300g variety just as well, I would use either for elk and feel comfortable.

besides the speed loaders, its nice to have a pick set to clean the fire hole in the nipple, I use a set made for cleaning welding tips, they were cheap, and work good.
if you go with loose powder, you will need a powder measure, I never hunt more then  a couple hours from the truck when im muzzle loading, so I skipped a powder horn, I put 2 speed loaders in a quick access pocket on my backpacks hip belt, and then run 6 more in my main bag, 3 for my gun, and 3 for my fiancée's gun, color coded as they are different loads.

a range rod is nice, but not needed if your not going to shoot often.
A palm saver of some sort helps a ton
a short starter is needed when my fiancée loads her wolf, I get by without.
being able to run a spit patch down your barrel in the field is nice, my loading jag doubles as a cleaning jag for that purpose.

go buy your caps now. you wont find any come season.

[elkinrutdrivemenuts]

I like the pellets and the Hornady sabots.  My grouping is extremely consistent vs the loose powder set up.  Powder amount is consistent every time vs loose powder, which can vary a bit.  Maybe its all in my head but I feel it is a more accurate set up and when you pull the trigger you want to be confident.

[Eli346]

 I'd go to Verle's and talk to Ron or Walt.  They'll get you started and if you're lucky they may even get you pointed in the right direction. Verle's is a local business that's been here forever and they've been good to me and others like me for decades now.

[Chukarhead]

Buy good boots.  Guns don't kill elk, boot leather does.   

Also, loose Triple7 FFG or FFFG (100-130gr in a magnum-rated gun), 290-300gr solid copper or bronze bullets in sabots (I like Barnes T-EZ), and either Mag #11 or musket caps.  Cleaning patches, cleaning jag, and screw-in T-handle for your rod.  Carry disassembly tool(s) with you in the field in case you need to unload without firing.  Get to the range/woods to figure all this out in the next two weeks.  Keep tweaking bullets and powder until you're shooting 6-8" groups at 100 yards (because that's really all you need to reliably kill elk).

[Sabotloader]

I don't see the benefit of using pellets, not much faster, if it is at all out of a speed loader, and I didn't have 100% reliability using any pellets out of my CVA optima v2 or my cva wolf.

both mentioned guns like the 250g sst, no patches or lubes needed, the optima like a 300g variety just as well, I would use either for elk and feel comfortable.

besides the speed loaders, its nice to have a pick set to clean the fire hole in the nipple, I use a set made for cleaning welding tips, they were cheap, and work good.
if you go with loose powder, you will need a powder measure, I never hunt more then  a couple hours from the truck when im muzzle loading, so I skipped a powder horn, I put 2 speed loaders in a quick access pocket on my backpacks hip belt, and then run 6 more in my main bag, 3 for my gun, and 3 for my fiancée's gun, color coded as they are different loads.

a range rod is nice, but not needed if your not going to shoot often.
A palm saver of some sort helps a ton
a short starter is needed when my fiancée loads her wolf, I get by without.
being able to run a spit patch down your barrel in the field is nice, my loading jag doubles as a cleaning jag for that purpose.

go buy your caps now. you wont find any come season.

I would totally agree with you but for some folks pellets are pretty simple.  I much prefer loose powder and personally I use T7-3f with #11 mag cap ignition. - never have a problems since switching to 2f from 3f.

[JJB11B]

Buy good boots.  Guns don't kill elk, boot leather does.   

Also, loose Triple7 FFG or FFFG (100-130gr in a magnum-rated gun), 290-300gr solid copper or bronze bullets in sabots (I like Barnes T-EZ), and either Mag #11 or musket caps.  Cleaning patches, cleaning jag, and screw-in T-handle for your rod.  Carry disassembly tool(s) with you in the field in case you need to unload without firing.  Get to the range/woods to figure all this out in the next two weeks.  Keep tweaking bullets and powder until you're shooting 6-8" groups at 100 yards (because that's really all you need to reliably kill elk).

6 to 8 inch groups at 100 yards?! I'd set the minimums a little smaller than that.

[Bigluke1981]

Tag

[bankwalker]

Thanks guys!! I'm gonna buy a couple different bullets and and powder to give them a try. I didn't realize how cheap I can get by muzzleloading. $14 for 20 bullets/sabots is sweet!!! Powder was alot cheaper than I expected aswell.

[JJB11B]

with a good rest you should be able to shoot 1-2 inch groups once you have your loads dialed in. I want to get a peep for my muzzy

[Chukarhead]

with a good rest you should be able to shoot 1-2 inch groups once you have your loads dialed in. I want to get a peep for my muzzy

Totally feasible.  Also, my elk are just as dead as yours with my mediocre 6" groups shot offhand or leaning against a fence post or a tree at a target that is somewhere between 75 and 100 yards away.  The only bullets I really treasure are the ones that are petaled out and bloodstained.

A lot of powder, lead, and copper are blown into hillsides in the pursuit of MOA groups when in reality, if you can hit a pie plate 100% of the time, you'll kill any elk inside of 150 yards that presents an ethical shot.

I love to hunt, but I only tolerate shooting rifles/muzzleloaders.  By this time of year, I don't want to be dialing anything in except my opening morning plan.

To the OP--don't get too hung up on loads until you have time to burn.  Make sure your boots are broken in, and your legs and lungs are ready.

[bankwalker]

Well the muzzleloader didn't shoot. Nipple is corroded shur. So much I can't get it removed, neither can I get the breech plug out.

So i found a traditions pursuit northwest edition for next to nothing. Picking it up tomorrow and then begins my muzzleloading elk career.