Almost done with the First

[gkowen]

I would say the fact that the lens is extended when it should be taking pics is an indication of the warm up being over. Make sure when you turn the trailcamera on that the Sony camera is off.  Here is a step by step procedure, try this.

Make sure Sony Camera is off, then turn on the trailcamera. The red led should light and stay lit for 30 seconds or so.

Just before the red led goes off, the lens should extend for a few seconds and then go back in.

Wait 15 seconds and walk around in front of the camera, the red led will turn on when it senses motion.

Stand still in front of the camera for 30 seconds or so, the red led will flash 5 or 6 times.

Wait 15 seconds, and start moving and the lens should extend and the camera should take pics. If the room is dark, and the focus assist
is on, you should see the bright red light from it.  The lens should stay extended until motion isn't sensed for 30 seconds.

Stand still and wait till the lens retracts. Then move again and it should extend again and should take pics. Then it should repeat the the step above.

[Machias]

It does everything exactly as described above, except take a photo.   

[Ridgeratt]

So if you jumper the Red/Black on the term strip on the board the camera turns on? Then Jumper the Black/Green it takes a photo? That proofs the wiring to the camera. This would tell me your not getting the trigger from the board.

[Grizzly95]

Machias, if you want to check the board I have 2 in my camera tool box. I am building a second one this week and I got an extra for my cousin when he decides to build his. Let me know and we can work something if you would like to try that. If it is a defective board we can work it out with yeti to get it swapped or whatever he decides to do.

[Machias]

I sure appreciate the offer Grizz, but I ordered another board from Yeti, so I should know in a few days. 

[ORDoubleLung]

Hey Machias,

Sorry it's been so long getting back to you.  I'm having trouble pulling up PDF's right now on my browser so I'm going from memory and my emails with Mark. 

Go to the Mouser site and search for PS 2503-2 and you'll get a list of IC's. 

Click they data sheet page for the PS 2503-2A chip and open it up.  That way you'll have a reference to work with.  Scroll down the data sheet and you should see a picture of the chip with the pins numbered.  That chip is the opto-isolator for the control board.  The only difference between the PS 2503-2 and the 2A is the 2A in manufactured without lead in the chip.  The eco-friendly version if you will. 

The isolator is located in right behind the terminal block.  If you look at top of the chip you will see a dot on one side.  That dot corresponds with the dent in the picture that's on one side or the other.  I think the dent is on the left side. 

Orientate the board so the chip matches the picture.

Locate pins 1 & 2 on the picture and the chip.  That is the LED for the power on the terminal block.

Locate pins 3 & 4 on the picture and chip.  That is the LED for the shutter on the terminal block.  That is what was wrong with mine.

You will need a meter with a diode/continuity checker on it.  With the batteries disconnected...check between pins 1 & 2 and 3 & 4.  Pins 1 & 2 should give you a reading like 1.184 or something.  The ground lead on the meter should go on pin one I believe.  It doesn't really matter for this but if they are backwards you'll get a different reading.

Now check pins 3 & 4.  If the LED is shorted like mine was the buzzer will go off which means the LED won't light up.  If this happens then the shutter won't trigger.

An opto-isolator is nothing more than a couple relays which also isolates the board from the camera in case some wires get shorted in the camera then it won't trash the board.  In the case of the PS 2503-2, it has two relays per say which goes to the power and shutter triggers.  The ground doesn't need one for obvious reasons.  Each of the two individual circuits are separate from one another inside the IC chip.  Two pins on one side corresponds with the two pins on the other side of the chip.  The two side make up a Light Emitting Diode and a photo-transistor.  When the board sends a signal to fire the shutter...it lights up the LED in the chip.  When the LED lights up...the photo- transistor on the other side sense's the light and triggers what essentially a relay which sends the signal to the terminal block and on to the camera.  By using a the opto-isolator in the board....the camera and the board circuit or not connected by wires to one another so the board won't get fried.

If it is something other than a shorted LED on the shutter circuit then I can't help you from here.  Sorry.  But that will at least let you know if it is the same problem that I had.

Hope this helps.

Shawn

[Machias]

Any chance you can post that in English as well?   

[ORDoubleLung]

LOL I tried.

Mark is excellent on his customer service.  He'll get you squared away.  I know it's frustrating waiting for a board though.   

Luckily I had ordered two so I swapped it out.  That's when I knew for sure that it was a bad board.  At least I had another.

[Machias]

    Got my new board from Yeti and the camera works PERFECT!!!  Yippee.  I'm mailing the other board back to Mark today.  Thanks Mark!!!!!!

[bearbait]

Glad to hear that.....
Now go out and then show us some pictures!!!!!

[Machias]

Well Mark at Yeticam got my control board fixed today, seems the solder jumper BC was not soldered.  He was prompt in his customer service and fixing the problem once I got the board back to him.  I was glad to find out it wasn't me as well.