Sighting in tips

[Gametaker23]

I've got my gun dead on at fifty yrds would to get it dead at a hundred I was curious if there was any tips to sighting in the muzzy to eliminate having to use hold over tactic. Was curious if I should move back to seventy five or just move back to a hundred. I will take any tips or advice thanks guys and gals

[CP]

You will likely be about an inch low at 100 when dead on at 50.

I use the max point blank method for sighting my ML.  I'm 3" high at 90y (max) that puts me dead on at about 150 and 3" low at about 180.  Anything within 180 yards I can hold dead on and I'll be no more than 3" high or low.

Your mileage may vary based on muzzle velocity and BC.

[Mallardmasher]

I am dead on at 50yds, 2.5" high at 100yds back to dead on at 150yds  and 5.5" low at 200yds. So I have never shot less then 50yds, but would think I would be a bit low at say 25yds. After looking at the curve. Will have to shot and see this weekend. I sighted in for 2.5" high at 100, and then when dialed, I shot the other distances to see what the paper said with holding dead nuts center.

[reelamin]

I think it all depends on where you are hunting and the potential for a shot.   I use a modified Max Point Blank Range....with all my hunting rifles.  For muzzle loader I will have mine sighted 6" high at 100 and it puts me dead on at 200 and 4" high at 50.   I prefer shooting open sights with the impact area on top of the front sight.   This gives me exactly what I want to POI and trajectory.  I run 4" high at 100 with my 300RUM and it makes things so much easier....no guessing needed.  Get me your ballistics and I'll run a chart for you if you want. 

[biggfish]

I don't like shooting long range with open sights, so I sighted in to 1.5" high at 100 yds. But I ran out of bullets. I know with that I can make a clean kill out to 150 without changing point of aim.

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[Gametaker23]

Yea I think the furthest I will shoot is 150 to be honest I just wanna get it so and drop from 20 yrds to 150 yrds and help would be great I shot today at 100yrds and shot 2 in low

[ghosthunter]

I think it all depends on where you are hunting and the potential for a shot.   I use a modified Max Point Blank Range....with all my hunting rifles.  For muzzle loader I will have mine sighted 6" high at 100 and it puts me dead on at 200 and 4" high at 50.   I prefer shooting open sights with the impact area on top of the front sight.   This gives me exactly what I want to POI and trajectory.  I run 4" high at 100 with my 300RUM and it makes things so much easier....no guessing needed.  Get me your ballistics and I'll run a chart for you if you want.

I do the exact same thing with my muzzy.

[CP]

Yea I think the furthest I will shoot is 150 to be honest I just wanna get it so and drop from 20 yrds to 150 yrds and help would be great I shot today at 100yrds and shot 2 in low

So sight it in about an inch or 1.5" high at 100 yards and it should be about like the graph.  That is a graph of a 300g XTP @ MV of 1850fps.  Whatever you are shooting it won't be too far off from that.

[Sabotloader]

I've got my gun dead on at fifty yrds would to get it dead at a hundred I was curious if there was any tips to sighting in the muzzy to eliminate having to use hold over tactic. Was curious if I should move back to seventy five or just move back to a hundred. I will take any tips or advice thanks guys and gals

I will add this to the collection of information you are getting

I have for years now especially with a ML used a system called Point Blank Range (PBR). For a muzzleloader I use a 6" PBR, meaning through a given range the bullet will never be more than 3" high or 3" low while sighting dead on or Point of Aim (POA).

Point-blank range is the distance between a weapon and a target of a given size its projectile is expected to strike without adjusting the weapon's elevation. Point-blank range will vary by a weapon's external ballistics characteristics and target chosen. A weapon with a flatter trajectory will permit a longer maximum point-blank range for a given target size, while a larger target will allow a longer point-blank range for a given weapon.

Here is a calculator I just found on the net.. and I am sure there are others

http://www.shooterscalculator.com/point-blank-range.php

In my case that means most of rifle will be about 3" high @ 100 and 3" low @ 175 to 90 depending on weight of bullet and powder charge or velocity.  This little thing allows me to shoot 0 to 200 without much thought or scope adjusting.

This is a typical ballistic sheet on one of my loads with the PBR built in..



The chart shows my actual zero range is 160 yards and I can shoot to 196 yards and be 3" LOW.  You can also the expected Point of Impact -POI at other ranges on the sheet

Hope this makes some sense...

[Gametaker23]

Ok sabotloader I shoot the bloodline 300 gr. Bullet

[Sabotloader]

Ok sabotloader I shoot the bloodline 300 gr. Bullet

This sheet might be closer for you it is shot with 120 grains of T7 while the first sheet was 120 grain BH

[Gametaker23]

What type of powder do u use sabotloader? I have a 50 Cal bighorn it's a beautiful gun just got it this year been a blast just wanna be as prepared as possible for elk season I have been shooting every night lol getting to be spendy but awesome time

[fishsticks]

Here is some more good info--

http://www.chuckhawks.com/how_high_fifty_yards.htm

Same as for any firearm, you need to define the use and pick a bullet and velocity.  Then, using ballistics you can determine where to sight in.  For an iron sighted hunting rifle the concept of point blank range is (imho) even more useful than when using optics.  But, it takes some work up front. 

TLDR - you need velocity and projectile bc, enter into a calculator and it will spit out where to sight in so you can use the same hold for all effective distances.

[Sabotloader]

What type of powder do u use sabotloader? I have a 50 Cal bighorn it's a beautiful gun just got it this year been a blast just wanna be as prepared as possible for elk season I have been shooting every night lol getting to be spendy but awesome time

I would suggest to you set your Bighorn up with #11 Mag cap ignition or RWS's Dynamit Noble 1075+ caps.  The 1075's are the best but are expensive - they are brought in from Germany.  I use them for hunting in crappy and cold weather and the CCI Mags for target range practice.  Then go to the Buffalo Arms web sight and order some TRESO 1/4 x 28 nipples and use them in your rifle instead of the Knight nipple.  When you push a cap on the TRESO with a capper it virtually seals the cap from the weather.  The only way to get the cap off is to shoot it off or use a knife blade to peel it off (save it and use it for target practice)

TRESO/AMPCO nipple... I use to get them from Track of the Wolf but they stopped carrying them and then I found Buffalo Arms in northern Idaho has them...  Get the capper in this picture also if you can it is sold under the Traditions brand name...



There is one little problem with these nipples.  The flash holes measure .028/29 and are excellent for regular #11 caps like might be used on a side hammer.  The Mag caps need a slightly larger flash hole to pass the amount heat they have - the flash hole needs to be drilled out to .031"

A second slight problem.... Your Bighorn which is probably a newer one comes with a shotgun 209 hammer. It has a sharp cone on the face of the hammer.  It will certainly work with caps but over time is really tough on nipples, either a musket or #11 - probably more so on a #11.  Worst part Knight does not even offer the old flat faced cap hammer.  So I would suggest you take your hammer to a machinist and get the cone somewhat flattened...

This picture shows the difference in the hammers



This picture shows the modification I am suggesting




Powder... I use T7-3f for 250 grain and or lighter bullets and T7-2f for the heavier bullets.  I shoot 110 grains by volume in most cases. 

Bullets... There are two bullets I would suggest for elk actually either the 458x275 grain bloodline or the 300 grain Bloodline and the second bullet would be the new Lehigh .452x265CF-HP grain Copper bullet.  Any of these would work wonders with elk and of course all three are over kills for deer but work great.

Hope some of this helps...





 

[Gametaker23]

It's an older knight so it came with the old style nipple I use the 1075 vorderlanders seem to work really well no miss fires yet I appreciate all the information and time u took to help out so after all the advice u think I need to be 2 in high at a hundred to get what I need out of the ranges I'll be shooting?

[Sabotloader]

It's an older knight so it came with the old style nipple I use the 1075 vorderlanders seem to work really well no miss fires yet I appreciate all the information and time u took to help out so after all the advice u think I need to be 2 in high at a hundred to get what I need out of the ranges I'll be shooting?

glad you have the percussion hammer!

100 shot height - I would go 2.75 then a lot of your range worries are gone - almost point and shoot...

[Gametaker23]

Ok awesome thanks sabotloader and everyone else who took the time to help a guy out u all have been a great help hope I can get it all adjusted before the season and have some pictures to follow