Stuck Choke Tube

[eastsidemallard74]

I have a Browning 12g 3 1/2 in. Gold hunter I have tried and tried to get the choke tube out. I have tried PB blaster, wd40, but don't know what else to try. It's also factory camoed. I'm afraid to much of the chemicals will eat away the camo. Any ideas suggestions?

[duckmen1]

I had a similar issue in the past. Had a stoeger 2000 semi auto. Shot it for years with no problem. Then bought Remington hypersonic loads 3" for duck hunting. They kicked like a mule and it swelled my choke threads. I was never able to get that choke out. Apparently those loads put way to much pressure in the gun.

Could your choke be stuck due to a high power load swelling the threads or do you think it is a corrosion issue? Or maybe somehow a cross threaded choke somehow?

Just a few thoughts.

[Duckslayer89]

If you've already tried PB blaster the only thing I could think of is boiling it. Get a pot of boiling water and take the barrel stick it in let it boil for a while holding it then wrench on it. I had to do that with a breach plug and it worked

[pianoman9701]

[Oh Mah]

  this and vibration is the best way to loosen stuck threads.try tapping a soft hammer on the stock while loosely holding the rifle with pb blaster in it as well.

[eastsidemallard74]

I've actually used about every shell. Typically to see what the hype is about, but always fall back to my Kents. I will try the boiling water thing. And watch this video

[duckmen1]

I've actually used about every shell. Typically to see what the hype is about, but always fall back to my Kents. I will try the boiling water thing. And watch this video

I'm usually the same way. My go to shells are always Kent also with the Remington high speed sportsman's steel a close second. They both pattern well with zero issues at a fair price. As far as boiling goes depending on the problem it may help as it may loosen corrosion or soften the metal enough to work it loose. Just be careful not to damage your camo coating but I think you'll be ok.

[JDHasty]

Here is a hint:  If the gun has a vent rib, be careful not to have one guy hold onto the barrel with his hands and another guy turn a long handled wrench.  I have seen a lot of distorted ribs from that maneuver.   

[trapp01]

I had one stick one time. I used a torch but that probably wouldn't do so hot with your camo

[Calvin Rayborn]

#2 on vibration/impact to break any corrosion or solidified lubricants on the threads free. Don't know about browning, but I know the original REM-choke wrenches had a 3/8in socket square machined into the center, so you could get an impact driver / rattle gun on there in a dire situation.

[Bill W]

put a cork in the end of your barrel and pour some Kroil inside and submerge the choke area.  Let it sit a while and it may work.  This way the "solvent" is only on the inside of the barrel.

[Calvin Rayborn]

Here's your solution:

The standard Browning t-handle wrench appears to be machined flat (where the logo is) to accept an open end wrench. Instead of the end wrench, use the appropriate size crowfoot wrench hooked to an impact driver gun. Plenty of downward pressure so you don't strip the choke lugs and you'd have that thing rattled-off in 2 seconds, no problem.

[bloodhound]

get your self a heat gun from you local hardware store. wont damage the paint like a torch but youll be able to get it pretty hot to expand the metal and hopefully allow you to remove it.

[Oh Mah]

I put liquid wrench anti seize on my chokes before using them,I also remove choke after the hunt.