Mechanical Problem : 1992 F-150 351w 5.8l Engine Knock?

[Smossy]

Picked up a 92 F150 5.8 longbed that vehicle wise is in great condition, Mechanically it has a few issues. Only has 160k miles so someone really made a mistake somewhere.
For one I noticed the wiring as been messed with quite severely and not in a good way. Some 0 gauge wires dangling free and just pressed under some random bolts. Used red wire for grounds, so yeah kind of messed.
In addition to that when I did manage to get it to start, it had a really bad sounding engine knock. Not a pretty noise. Literally sounds like a hammer hitting metal over and over. It idled fine and kept running although the sound is something that makes you want to shut it right off. So I'm assuming theres some real damage somewhere.
Pockets are pretty shallow so its gonna take me probably years to get this thing drivable.  Figured I'd get to work on my own little outdoor rig.
Should I risk rebuilding or trying to find a new or used motor?
Figured there has to be a few guys on here with experience on these motors being as they're so common..
Alittle added thing, the guy I got it from said it ran fairly decent untill gus buddy changed out the freeze plugs, now it's in the shape it's in now. At this point aw ith a full battery I can't even get it to crank, assuming because the masses of wires that need to be fixed.

[Smossy]

Payed $800

[NRA4LIFE]

That looks to be in remarkable shape!  Maybe an engine rebuild?

[Smossy]

That looks to be in remarkable shape!  Maybe an engine rebuild?

Yeah it really is, last thing I wanted was another non-running vehicle but for the price I couldn't pass it up. Hopefully some ford vets will chime in on this motor, I Know it's the same motor that's in the 250 and 350 of that era, even some older mustang's given some added hp mods.  Rebuild would be cheaper but it's just a matter of if what's going on with it is some "fluke" and it's really not as bad as it sounds, or its gonna be completely messed up inside.

[CP]

A "knock" could be a lot of things, none of them good.  A new (rebuilt) short block will correct most problems of that type.

[Smossy]

A "knock" could be a lot of things, none of them good.  A new (rebuilt) short block will correct most problems of that type.

Yeah I figured, something like this then?

https://spprecision.com/products/351-windsor-short-block-engine-sale.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3InYBRCLARIsAG6bfMT6l-pglHpdoTxdj99Watuiuh8QJQkFnaSXHoUAZBvAbd_uQ0dxJr4aAvKKEALw_wcB



Odd...

From the website
Production Years Covered
1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997

Literally skips 1992, wonder what's different? Short block just means the upper right?not the complete upper/lower "longblock"?

[Crunchy]

I would start by either dropping the oil pan or draining some oil looking for metal shavings.  If that looks good try a compression test, if possible, to see if you have an issue with one of the intake or exhaust valves.  Thrown rod, broken or bent valve, broken valve spring all come to mind.  Depends on how bad the knocking noise is. 

[CP]

A "knock" could be a lot of things, none of them good.  A new (rebuilt) short block will correct most problems of that type.

Yeah I figured, something like this then?

https://spprecision.com/products/351-windsor-short-block-engine-sale.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3InYBRCLARIsAG6bfMT6l-pglHpdoTxdj99Watuiuh8QJQkFnaSXHoUAZBvAbd_uQ0dxJr4aAvKKEALw_wcB



Odd...

From the website
Production Years Covered
1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997

Literally skips 1992, wonder what's different? Short block just means the upper right?not the complete upper/lower "longblock"?

A short block does not include the heads, just the crank, pistons, etc. 

There are different versions of the 351 out there e.g. 351M, 351C, 351W - I believe the W is a small, block the others are a "big" block, but I'm no expert - do your research.

[Zardoz]

A "knock" could be a lot of things, none of them good.  A new (rebuilt) short block will correct most problems of that type.

Yeah I figured, something like this then?

https://spprecision.com/products/351-windsor-short-block-engine-sale.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3InYBRCLARIsAG6bfMT6l-pglHpdoTxdj99Watuiuh8QJQkFnaSXHoUAZBvAbd_uQ0dxJr4aAvKKEALw_wcB



Odd...

From the website
Production Years Covered
1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997

Literally skips 1992, wonder what's different? Short block just means the upper right?not the complete upper/lower "longblock"?

Down in the "Specs" it covers 92-93. Probably have to call them and see if whats special about yours.

[Bofire]

you do not know about the motor, freeze plugs are not replaced for fun. Knock. Find a used motor, buy a short block, rebuild it, get the heads done too. Hows the brakes and tranny?

Carl

[Smossy]

you do not know about the motor, freeze plugs are not replaced for fun. Knock. Find a used motor, buy a short block, rebuild it, get the heads done too. Hows the brakes and tranny?

Carl

Everything else seems solid... just...the sound...

[Mudman]

Freeze plugs?!?!  Red flag.  Its a boat anchor probably.  Buy a good runner used/wrecking yard etc.  Rebuild will cost ya more.  Nice truck.  Drop the oil pan and inspect for metal shaves and damage first.  Wires could just be some radio/cb/light mods?  Trace em to source and repair/remove.  Ground doesn't care if its red/black/white!  I have used red!

[Smossy]

Freeze plugs?!?!  Red flag.  Its a boat anchor probably.  Buy a good runner used/wrecking yard etc.  Rebuild will cost ya more.  Nice truck.  Drop the oil pan and inspect for metal shaves and damage first.  Wires could just be some radio/cb/light mods?  Trace em to source and repair/remove.  Ground doesn't care if its red/black/white!  I have used red!

Lol I know it doesnt matter, just makes it alittle more anoying when tracking them down. Wires look like they just cut out the factory stuff and replaced them with bigger wires and did a poor job. Yeah oil pan will be the first thing I do, hell I dont even remember if I even checked if it had oil in it 😳, I've found a few cheap running vehicles for 3-500. Just dont know 100% if they will swap. One chick has a hideous van with a cartoon pain job on the side for 300 but it runs.

[jackelope]

I missed the part about it already running, albeit poorly.
Wonder if he broke the flex plate putting the engine back in it after doing freeze plugs? If there's an inspection cover at the bell housing you can pull and look? Just a thought.

[Smossy]

Gonna get my hands dirty after work and see what I can find

[luckyman]

I missed the part about it already running, albeit poorly.
Wonder if he broke the flex plate putting the engine back in it after doing freeze plugs? If there's an inspection cover at the bell housing you can pull and look? Just a thought.

I was ready to suggest this also. I picked up an impala for free, motor knock. loose  torque converter bolts.
78 camaro engine knock. loose  torque converter bolts.
85 bronco 11 engine knock. cracked flex plate. chevy 3/4 ton 4x4. engine knock. Cracked bolt hole around  pump on trany.

[Crunchy]

I'm not overly familiar with this specific motor but you don't always have to pull the motor to install freeze plugs. 

[h20hunter]

Good looking truck. Be nice if you can get it going without spending a ton....drive a bit and flip that baby.

[luckyman]

I would have jump on that truck for 8 bills. I may be lucky but all my engine knock buys have been fairly cheap and easy fixes. 

[jackelope]

I'm not overly familiar with this specific motor but you don't always have to pull the motor to install freeze plugs. 

I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure there are a couple on the back of the engine block to where you'd have to either pull the engine or transmission for access.
There are 3 down either side of the engine block and then I think there's one on the back of each head. With that said, who knows which ones were replaced.

Pull the inspection cover and have a look. Have someone bump the key to turn the engine slightly while you're watching. You might see it wobble.

[Smossy]

If I can get it to crank gonna try to make a video tonight.
You guys have given me a few ideas to try tonight before it gets dark hopefully.

[Grit dog]

Nice find!  We're so lucky out here with vehicles.  Where I grew up, that truck, running or not would be a smoldering pile of rust. And even with a blown engine, in that shape like yours would be worth a couple grand at least.
Couple things, if finding a new/ used motor, it's a Windsor, trucks have differnet oil pans and pumps than cars (if you find a takeout from a crown Vic or older Tbird or something), and don't even think about trying to retro fit a 302 or other. Ford small blocks are not near as universal as a small block Chevy or Mopar.

I'd get a wiring schematic and trace/fix that as you go so you don't lose track. And as mentioned, before tearing the engine apart, get someone else knowledgable to look at it with you. Like others, I've bought engines that were "froze up" or "knocked" that were much simpler fixes. 
If the engine is toast, a good used engine is cheaper and easier than pretty much any rebuild, IMO, if you just want to get it on the road and don't have specific goals for the engine.

[Smossy]

Nice find!  We're so lucky out here with vehicles.  Where I grew up, that truck, running or not would be a smoldering pile of rust. And even with a blown engine, in that shape like yours would be worth a couple grand at least.
Couple things, if finding a new/ used motor, it's a Windsor, trucks have differnet oil pans and pumps than cars (if you find a takeout from a crown Vic or older Tbird or something), and don't even think about trying to retro fit a 302 or other. Ford small blocks are not near as universal as a small block Chevy or Mopar.

I'd get a wiring schematic and trace/fix that as you go so you don't lose track. And as mentioned, before tearing the engine apart, get someone else knowledgable to look at it with you. Like others, I've bought engines that were "froze up" or "knocked" that were much simpler fixes. 
If the engine is toast, a good used engine is cheaper and easier than pretty much any rebuild, IMO, if you just want to get it on the road and don't have specific goals for the engine.

Yeah I'm not looking to do any crazy hauling or anything, goal is just to have a solid reliable 4x4. I've went through it visually and it's in surprisingly good condition, everything underneath is almost immaculate, zero rust, maybe just a few new bushings in the suspension nothing serious, few spots on the hood from rocks and the hood needs a good cut and buff. Tried to mess with it today just trying to get it to start. Think my battery was dead. But this thing must need tons of cranking amps cause had a buddy run jumpers and I piggy backed off another battery I had and it wouldn't crank. It would try to, then like just lose all power and shut off. It's like maybe the starter solenoid is shorting out or dying. Gonna try to trickle charge my Optima red top tonight and see if itll crank it tomorrow. It did crank at one point after I got it, and nothing has changed, just wont crank now. Traced a few wires, the wire from the ground to the chassis needs to be replaced. So far that's all I got today. I was hoping to be able to drop the pan but figured out I have to lift the motor out about 6 inches just to get the pan to clear. So if I want to check for metel gonna just have to drain from the plug, cant inspect.

[Grit dog]

Get a good ground on it now from the battery to the block and block to chassis, before you keep trying to start it. Could be the problem and you don't want to keep energizing the starter without good ground.
Also, I think the starter solenoid is still separate mounted on the fender well or close to that. You can jump across the solenoid if it's got a short in it.
Looks like you got a good truck there and great deal to boot

[Oh Mah]

I did not read every post just 1st page.Smossy i would like for you to video it running with sound please.that will be a great place to start this conversation.I'm sure its a fuel injected 351-w ?very nice small block.look at oil if its milky its junk.look in coolant if it has oil slick it is junk.take all parts off- oil pan,intake,water pump,ignition system,heads,exhaust system,alternator,pulleys,harmonic balancer, ? i think that's it.I,m sure with the low miles and shape of truck all of these things are good.Either find a good used low mile engine and put all of this on it and put it in or buy a short block crate motor when you can and put all of this on it and put it in.short block will go for another 150k easy in that truck and you know what you got.Build your own with a donor and you can do it for around 800 with the machine work as long as crank is good.    Oh yeah, Nice truck!

[smdave]

A "knock" could be a lot of things, none of them good.  A new (rebuilt) short block will correct most problems of that type.

Yeah I figured, something like this then?

https://spprecision.com/products/351-windsor-short-block-engine-sale.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3InYBRCLARIsAG6bfMT6l-pglHpdoTxdj99Watuiuh8QJQkFnaSXHoUAZBvAbd_uQ0dxJr4aAvKKEALw_wcB



Odd...

From the website
Production Years Covered
1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1991, 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997

Literally skips 1992, wonder what's different? Short block just means the upper right?not the complete upper/lower "longblock"?

1992 FORD FORD F150 PICKUP - Engine Assembly 5.8L VIN H, 8th Digit, 8-351W

http://www.carmonkeys.com/1992-FORD-FORD-F150-PICKUP-Engine-Assembly-5-8L-VIN-H-8th-Digit-8-351W-5-Years-Warranty?utm_campaign=google&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3InYBRCLARIsAG6bfMRbYZW5JlV472BECCBavOyyFJXHbo7mmyUZ5B6mSWYRRK1lM8q37EUaAiPnEALw_wcB

[jackelope]

Before you pull the oil pan, put a bar on the crank pulley bolt and make sure the engine will turn over and that it didn't seize up the last time you had it running.
 
Replacing the oil pan in that calls for 6.1 hours labor....and that's a technician with all the right tools. That will be no small task.

[Bofire]

you can't get the pan off without basicly  pulling the motor, you gotta lift the motor about 6 inchs or so. Try spinning the crank with a rod, drain the oil and look at it. I think you can decide what to do without going to that extreme

[Westside88]

I’m all for evaluating the engine as well as you can prior to deciding. Before I’d go too deep into an engine with a bad knock and unknown origins, you may want to look for a good runner to swap out. You can get to a reliable point with about the same effort and not a ton of money 

[Smossy]

Will anything with a 351w swap? Or does it need to be a specific year?

[smdave]

Will anything with a 351w swap? Or does it need to be a specific year?

Looks like the 8th digit in the VIN is the Engine code The H example might be yours might not.

1992 FORD FORD F150 PICKUP - Engine Assembly 5.8L VIN H, 8th Digit, 8-351W

[Dirty Mike]

Intake manifold changed between yrs can't remember which yet but there is a gasket yo correct that

[Smossy]

Any mechanics out there who would want to take on the task of "getting this truck running", and Ill pay you with my cadillac >_<
She needs a better home than I can find. Runs great, Needs a tuneup and some headliner work. Worth around 2k. I just want my dang truck moving and I cant see being able to fix it myself.