Ok I need help

[cascademountainhunter]

I'm trying to sight in my broadheads for this upcoming turkey season. Ive herd that you can tune your bow or arrows or something so that they will shoot the same as my target tips. I'm using Muzzy 100's if it matters. I tried turning the vanes and got it with in an inch of my target tips at 20 yards. So I went to 40 yards and the broadheads were like 4 or 5 inches lower. So then for the fun of it I went out to 60 yards and shot way below the target into the ground. Am I just gonna have to move all my pins for the broadheads or what? Any help appreciated. Thanks.

[cascademountainhunter]

They were in line windage wise just low

[jackelope]

you need to move pins for broadheads.

[Todd_ID]

Tuning a bow is all about arrow flight.  Put a broadhead on the front, and you've just added wings to catch the air and plane differently than a field point.  Once the arrow flight is correct, then the broadheads and field points will hit in the same place.  You need to move the rest to get the arrow leaving the bow perfectly straight, otherwise it will plane (catch air and veer off course) and not hit the same as field points.

Broadheads hitting below the field points in a straight line means move your rest up 1/16" and try again.  You may need to move as much as 1/8" with the amount you were talking about being off, but I'm thinking 1/16" is about right.  By moving the rest up, your field point impact will now be a bit higher, but your broadheads will move further and eventually get caught up to where they hit in the same place.  This assumes several things: broadheads and field points are same weight, there is no fletching contact with the rest, the broadheads spin true with the arrow, and your form stays somewhat consistent between broadheads and field points.  Check these assumptions thoroughly before moving the rest.  Put lipstick on the vane edges and see if it shows up on the rest.  Spin the arrow to look and feel for a wobbling tip.  Tighten a little more or swap around those that wobble until they spin perfect.

Now, if you've got a Whisker Biscuit...... Forget the lipstick because you know you've got serious vane contact.  Moving the rest does the same thing with the biscuit as far as trying to eliminate planing, but going too far will cause the tail to kick in the opposite direction and compound your problem.  If moving it up doesn't seem to help, then try moving it down since tail kick could have been the problem all along.

Once you are happy with the broadheads and field points hitting in the same place, then you move your sight to make that point be in the center of your target.

You're talking about turkey hunting, so penetration isn't a problem.  But, come September, moving just the sight will leave the poor arrow flight in place and will greatly reduce your penetration.  A true-flying arrow will penetrate far better than a wobbly (untuned) one and will very likely mean a pass through on an elk versus 12" penetration and a single lung hit that's hard to recover.

[coonhound]

Tuning a bow is all about arrow flight.  Put a broadhead on the front, and you've just added wings to catch the air and plane differently than a field point.  Once the arrow flight is correct, then the broadheads and field points will hit in the same place.  You need to move the rest to get the arrow leaving the bow perfectly straight, otherwise it will plane (catch air and veer off course) and not hit the same as field points.

Broadheads hitting below the field points in a straight line means move your rest up 1/16" and try again.  You may need to move as much as 1/8" with the amount you were talking about being off, but I'm thinking 1/16" is about right.  By moving the rest up, your field point impact will now be a bit higher, but your broadheads will move further and eventually get caught up to where they hit in the same place.  This assumes several things: broadheads and field points are same weight, there is no fletching contact with the rest, the broadheads spin true with the arrow, and your form stays somewhat consistent between broadheads and field points.  Check these assumptions thoroughly before moving the rest.  Put lipstick on the vane edges and see if it shows up on the rest.  Spin the arrow to look and feel for a wobbling tip.  Tighten a little more or swap around those that wobble until they spin perfect.

Now, if you've got a Whisker Biscuit...... Forget the lipstick because you know you've got serious vane contact.  Moving the rest does the same thing with the biscuit as far as trying to eliminate planing, but going too far will cause the tail to kick in the opposite direction and compound your problem.  If moving it up doesn't seem to help, then try moving it down since tail kick could have been the problem all along.

Once you are happy with the broadheads and field points hitting in the same place, then you move your sight to make that point be in the center of your target.

You're talking about turkey hunting, so penetration isn't a problem.  But, come September, moving just the sight will leave the poor arrow flight in place and will greatly reduce your penetration.  A true-flying arrow will penetrate far better than a wobbly (untuned) one and will very likely mean a pass through on an elk versus 12" penetration and a single lung hit that's hard to recover.

I absolutely agree with everything Todd said, I shoot the Muzzy 100's and I never have to move my sight.  Tuning is KEY, if your form is good and your bow is tuned you should be very close with your broadheads.  The only thing I would add is to be carefull not to move your rest too far up or down try to keep your arrow centered on your berger button hole, the threaded hole up from your shelf.  If you need to make adjustments that are more than minimal adjustments you would probably be better suited to move your nock point up or down.  Moving your nock down is like moving your rest up.

Coon

[Sneaky]

I had the same problem with my Black Ice and sonic 100's. Take your bow to a good archery shop and have them make sure that the rest and knock point are perfectly level. If that doesnt work, you could move your entire sight rather than tinkering with individual pins. The gapping should be fairly close to the same as long as the weight of the point is the same as your target tips and your rest and knock point are right.

[Slider]

Here is a good read. Also go to the links under the Tuning Tab. And at the bottom of the page.



http://www.redhawk-archery.com/bh-tuning.html

[Todd_ID]

Well, Cascade, how'd it go?  Any progress to report?

[colockumelk]

Here is a good read. Also go to the links under the Tuning Tab. And at the bottom of the page.



http://www.redhawk-archery.com/bh-tuning.html

Wow thanks alot Slider.  That is some good info for sure.  I just learned alot.  I mean seriously thankyou.  I've only bow hunted for three years now and I always just moved my sights to get the broadheads to align with my field points.  Thank you so much.  I do have one question.  To move the impact left or right it mentions to increase or decrease the "plunger tension"  what does that mean?

[Todd_ID]

That came from the days of cushion plungers, blade launchers, and finger releasing.  Broadheads hitting left of field points, move rest right until the groups merge, then move the sight right to get the merged groups into the center.

[KillBilly]

you need to move pins for broadheads.

Unless you use FOBS

[BULLBLASTER]

if you tune your bow, you wont have to move pins only to sight in with field points after tuning. i tuned mine saturday and shot broadheads and field points to 80 yards, same POI!!
one easy way to get close is shoot a group of arrows at 20 yards and then shoot an arrow without fletching at teh group. if spine is correct and the bow is tuned it should group with the fletched shafts. if not move the rest to compensate. this will get you really close, then shoot broadheads and adjust rest or nock point a lottle more if needed. they can shoot exactly like field points!!! good luck
and keep us posted of progress!!!!

[Buckrub]

and if all else fails throw the muzzy's away and buy some g5 montecs

[highclimber]

I second the g5