Picked up my new Savage AXIS II XP in .308 about a month ago. The stock that Savage supplies is pretty cheap, it twists pretty easily. I ordered a new Boyd's laminated thumbhole stock, their new Spike Camp at about the same time. This is the fourth Boyd's laminated thumbhole stock I have purchased and I am very pleased with Boyd's quality. I have performed substantial modifications on each gun, including pillar bedding, glass bedding, and some minor modifications to the bolt slot on one of the guns. I used an aluminum pillar that I ordered from Raven Eye, which will be used in this rifle. I will need to turn this pillar down 1/16th of an inch to 3/8ths inch OD on the lathe.
Next step is to cut the pillar into two unequal pieces and clean them up a bit. Then I'll drill two precise 90 degree holes, enlarging the holes that Boyd's made. This will allow me to put ample epoxy on the pillar and press them into place. After that I'll carefully drop the action into the stock and gently screw in the two 1/4 inch screws. Pillar bedding gives me metal to metal contact for greater accuracy. After 24 hours I'll remove the action and clean up any excess bits of epoxy. Once the pillar bedding is completed I'll slightly enlarge the inside of the stock, under the barrel so I can get excellent free floating of the barrel. This is essential if you want the barrel harmonics to be unimpeded.
I completed the pillar bedding on my Savage AXIS II XP, fitted into the Boyd's new Spike Camp laminated thumbhole stock. I drilled out both holes from their original size to 3/8" on the drill press. Using a round file I enlarged the hole slightly and roughed up the inside of the hole to accept the epoxy. I use JB Weld Original epoxy. While it's says its for metal I have found it works great on wood. My dad machined two pillars out of brass rod, drilled 1/4" hole for the bolts, and knurled the outside so the epoxy would adhere better. However, the rear brass pillar was slightly too short so I ended up using the aluminum pillar for the rear. I turned it down on the drill press with a metal file to 3/8". After several tries, shaving off a few thousands of an inch, I finally got the pillar just right, slightly proud on top and bottom.
Part 2: I also purchased a new stainless steel trigger guard, replacing the plastic one that came with the Boyd's stock. After inserting the pillars, front and rear and bolting the receiver and trigger guard in I checked for barrel clearance with the stock. Using my Brownell's stock shaving tool I removed some wood almost the length of the stock under the barrel so I got an acceptable free floating of the barrel. I checked it three dollar bills thickness. Finally I mixed up the epoxy, coated the pillars, and pressed them into the 3/8" holes - a perfect fit. After 24 hours I removed the receiver/trigger mechanism/barrel and cleaned everything up. Then I replaced the receiver/trigger mechanism/barrel and torqued down the bolts. It's solid as a rock. One last addition; a black tactical bolt handle from Glades Armory will replace the shorter factory bolt handle from Savage.
Overall I'm happy with the results. My only complaint with Savage is the cheap Bushnell scope that was included in the package. I didn't have high expectations for the scope but it's badly out of focus. I contacted Savage but haven't heard back from them yet with a suitable resolution. Regardless of their response I'll likely put a new Vortex Optics Crossfire II - 3x9x40. It is highly rated for an under $200 scope. Over the years I have had a couple of $400 scopes from both Nikon and Leupold and a few under $200 dollar scopes from Burris, Bushnell, and Simmons. At this stage of my hunting career I think the Vortex will do just fine.
