Suppressor threading

[Mtnwalker]

I don’t know much about thread pitches etc, I have a browning a-bolt II with the old boss system on it. Basically just a weighted muzzle break with an adjustable lock nut behind it so you can move it back and forth. I asked browning about the thread pitch and they said it’s a 9/16x24 but can’t be fitted with a suppressor without gunsmithing because it “isn’t a standard thread pattern and doesn’t have enough shoulder”.

I was curious why I couldn’t thread a suppressor on in front of the lock nut the same way the brake goes on, assuming it has the correct threads? Anybody have experience with suppressing an old BOSS rifle? I don’t really want to chop and re-thread the barrel if I don’t have to

 

[LDennis24]

I believe if the suppressor is not able to seat onto the shoulder of the barrel and is only seated with threads then you will have an alignment issue.

[Mtnwalker]

I believe if the suppressor is not able to seat onto the shoulder of the barrel and is only seated with threads then you will have an alignment issue.

I see, so basically the lock nut just wouldn’t serve as a precise enough shoulder? The brake has a .338 bore, maybe that gives them a little extra wiggle room for alignment. This would be a .30 cal can on a .243 wssm

[dreadi]

9/16x24 is plenty common. So common that all major silencer manufacturers make muzzle devices in that thread pitch. It’s really unfortunate that a major firearm manufacturer would say that thread pitch is uncommon.

Also, a 9/16x24 muzzle indexing brake can be installed for silencer mourning when there’s not enough shoulder if the manufacturer makes one. ThunderBeast makes them for theirs. I use one on my 300WM that Thunder Beast threaded and installed the brake on.


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[Boss .300 winmag]

Doesn’t the lock nut and ring behind it for all the way off?

[Mtnwalker]

Doesn’t the lock nut and ring behind it for all the way off?

It does but there is hardly any shoulder if taken off. Threads are .560 and barrel is .595

The locknut acts as a moveable shoulder for the brake to seat against, wasn’t sure if same could be done for a suppressor 

[BULLBLASTER]

There can be alignment issues with using a lock nut or jam nut for suppressor indexing. They can move a small amount, that can affect alignment a small amount.
That small amount may not impact a 2 inch long brake with an oversize opening but could cause a strike with a 6-8 inch long suppressor.

It really isnt an issue to have the barrel cut and threaded. I would personally have it cut and threaded 1/2 x28. Some gun guys will even thread to 1/2 and then install a shouldered extension/adaptor to 5/8 threads like a flare on the muzzle.

[dreadi]

There can be alignment issues with using a lock nut or jam nut for suppressor indexing. They can move a small amount, that can affect alignment a small amount.
That small amount may not impact a 2 inch long brake with an oversize opening but could cause a strike with a 6-8 inch long suppressor.

It really isnt an issue to have the barrel cut and threaded. I would personally have it cut and threaded 1/2 x28. Some gun guys will even thread to 1/2 and then install a shouldered extension/adaptor to 5/8 threads like a flare on the muzzle.

And when doing that it creates more stacking tolerances that may or may not cause the firearm to decrease in accuracy. Correct thread pitch options should be determined by the amount of material  between the bore and outer diameter of the barrel.


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[zwickeyman]

Griffin Armament makes nice cans and they have multiple different types of mounting options. I use their EZ brakes on all of mine. Makes it easy to swap cans to different rifles also

[birdshooter1189]

Threading a suppressor against the locknut COULD cause misalignment, but not guaranteed.  There is a quick way you can check it. 

1. Thread your suppressor on and tighten it against the lock nut. 

2. Remove the bolt from your rifle and look down the bore, from the rear towards the front. Center your head/eye to look down the center of the bore. (When centered, you probably won't be able to see any of the material of the suppressor. (The inside of your suppressor, when looking through the inside of your barrel))

3. Move your head/eye to look at the extreme diagonal angles down the bore. (up/down/left/right) Depending on caliber of the rifle and suppressor, you may or may not see material of the suppressor internals when you do this.  You likely will.  You want to make sure you can see an EVEN amount of material when looking at the 4 different angles.  This indicates proper alignment.  If you see more suppressor material at one angle than another, you don't have perfect alignment, and this COULD cause baffle strike problems.

What caliber is the rifle and what caliber is the suppressor?  If they are matched, (556 can on a 556 rifle, or .308 can on a .308 rifle), the tolerance will be tighter and alignment will be more critical.  If they are not matched (.308 can on a .243 or 556, etc), you will have more error margin(tolerance for slight misalignment).

[LDennis24]

I believe if the suppressor is not able to seat onto the shoulder of the barrel and is only seated with threads then you will have an alignment issue.

I see, so basically the lock nut just wouldn’t serve as a precise enough shoulder? The brake has a .338 bore, maybe that gives them a little extra wiggle room for alignment. This would be a .30 cal can on a .243 wssm

Like mentioned above you may be able to make it work as long as it's not way off. It would have to be majorly canted if your putting a .338 can on a .243 barrel I would think. 

[birdshooter1189]

I believe if the suppressor is not able to seat onto the shoulder of the barrel and is only seated with threads then you will have an alignment issue.

I see, so basically the lock nut just wouldn’t serve as a precise enough shoulder? The brake has a .338 bore, maybe that gives them a little extra wiggle room for alignment. This would be a .30 cal can on a .243 wssm

Like mentioned above you may be able to make it work as long as it's not way off. It would have to be majorly canted if your putting a .338 can on a .243 barrel I would think. 

Oops.  I missed that where he said calibers.  It's a .243 bore and .30 cal suppressor.  That should have plenty of clearance unless alignment is WAY off.  I run a 30 cal can on a .243 also. My .243 is threaded 1/2x28 and I run a thread adapter to 5/8x24 to the suppressor.

[Mtnwalker]

Thanks for the input everybody. I haven't actually bought the can yet, and this isn't the main rifle I'd be using it on it'd just be a bonus if I could make it work on this gun as well. I don't shoot it very often (mostly because its too damn loud  ) maybe 40-50 rounds a year which is why I don't want to go through the trouble of chopping/re-threading if I don't have to. Guess once I actually decide which can I'm going with that could dictate whether it'll have an adapter available

[birdshooter1189]

That makes sense.  Here's a thread adapter that would probably work for you.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/364470936252?hash=item54dc2922bc:g:KZsAAOSwjpdlEdLP&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4MuVao3QoKVRGMdhkIlgfrfypCkvJU3%2F750B8rizSc%2BD4%2F8F65eOO0zwCF8z1JbEaEKyQJ5FYb3eLBs6FTT7iEeUYeU47iQbTg6ECU%2F4lalHgtjQg4QGRfbefkPB0oTDJfpwU8WlhX%2BgQWK0bRSfL6zZ4yD335P%2FGmHySJg7pjuZJbOBK7%2Fqu35TXx6v52rMY5jK8EKBlkTw%2BYJD8k7y3CyYoHlvU0jkN0alBCPQqymvd0ESOT87vl3ZPpcKDbVUDkL1qZGdoaivyH9jIoCqjSzjJsIWyBnHTG%2BKGVVyJXnY%7Ctkp%3ABFBM1s_TnoJj

Just confirm alignment like I outlined above and it should be good to go.

[BULLBLASTER]

Thanks for the input everybody. I haven't actually bought the can yet, and this isn't the main rifle I'd be using it on it'd just be a bonus if I could make it work on this gun as well. I don't shoot it very often (mostly because its too damn loud  ) maybe 40-50 rounds a year which is why I don't want to go through the trouble of chopping/re-threading if I don't have to. Guess once I actually decide which can I'm going with that could dictate whether it'll have an adapter available

You should probably hurry up and buy that can last month! Thats the best time to buy one.

[Karl Blanchard]

I'm buying right after Christmas mtnwalker. Do the same from silencer shop and we can carpool to eburg to use their kiosk 

[Mtnwalker]

I'm buying right after Christmas mtnwalker. Do the same from silencer shop and we can carpool to eburg to use their kiosk 

Lets do it!

You should probably hurry up and buy that can last month! Thats the best time to buy one.

I mean I've only been talking about it for like 2 years, don't rush me 

[dreadi]

I'm buying right after Christmas mtnwalker. Do the same from silencer shop and we can carpool to eburg to use their kiosk 

Lets do it!

You should probably hurry up and buy that can last month! Thats the best time to buy one.

I mean I've only been talking about it for like 2 years, don't rush me 

You could have had so many by now. Lol


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07/02 NFA Dealer

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[fly-by]

With a .243 bore I would just chop it off and go 1/2-28.  It's not expensive and will result in plenty of wall diameter and shoulder while addressing any concerns about indexing.  I went this route on an x-bolt in .243 Win and it works great.   

What's the barrel length?  If it's 24" you'll end up with a pretty unwieldy, front heavy package after you add the suppressor.  I cut my bolt guns 16-18" for standard chamberings and 20-21" for magnums.   Worth the small drop in velocity.