DR Brush Mower won't crank

[Rob]

Equipment info
• DR Power Field and Brush Mower Pro 26 14.5 HP
• Brush Mower Model: AT45026BEN
• Engine Model: 31R6770017G1 (Model 310000 in the manual)

Situation
I have a DR Mower Pro26. It has mostly sat for the last year - inside in the garage. Oil is clean and fresh, Battery was on a trickle charger over the winter and shows charged ~12 volts.

I went to use it a week ago. It cranked fine and started right up. I had it in first gear and mowed about a 20 foot section. I attempted to shift into reverse to back up and the cable used to downshift broke. the engine remained on but I was unable to downshift out of first. I shut down the engine and pushed it back to the garage.

I jerry-rigged a temp fix for the cable while I awaited the replacement cable. I am now able to move thru all the gears.

Problem
Now to Problem. When I turn the key, nothing happens. no buzzing, no attempt to start, nothing.

Troubleshooting so far
1. I went back to the manual and re-read the starting instructions. PTO must be disengaged to start, and the gear must be in neutral. There is also a "plug" for the neutral disengage switch below the handlebars on the lower part of the engine area that appears to be solidly plugged in.
- I verified that all of these seemed fine. When in gear it is very difficult to roll the mower by pushing, and when it is in neutral, it of course rolls well. So I am positive the engine is in neutral when I am trying to start it
2. Verified the battery connections are secure and the battery has at least 12 volts. All check out
3. Verified the PTO was disengaged
4. Verified the switch for the key has all the connections still securely attached.
5. For what it is worth, I tried cranking with and without the "operator present" handle engaged with no effect (even though this is irrelevant to the normal starting procedure).


So... My guess is, that because it was cranking, starting, running fine, and then, after a clean shut down following a shifting problem, it stopped working, my theory is that some kind of safety switch has disabled the ability to crank. Likely either something is telling the machine it is still in gear, or the PTO is on when it is not. I have exhausted the checks I can think of. I will be removing some of the cowlings and such to replace that cable so perhaps something will pop out to me when I do that.

Anyone have this issue before or have ideas to check?

[Woodchuck]

Keep it simple, start with, are you getting proper voltage to the starter? If yes, you need a starter. If not, then start backing up the chain, fuse? Relay?

[Encore 280]

Starter solenoid? Any spark between the solenoid posts?

[EnglishSetter]

I have effectively the same mower.  Same thing happened a few weeks ago sans the shift cable.

I was getting no voltage to the solenoid (and hence none to the starter).  With a jumper battery to the starter and solenoid it cranked fine, but no run.  Checked fuse, looked good.  Removed switch and though i don't have a schematic, the wire colors give a clue and it checked out with ohm meter.  Verified neutral and confirmed with ohm meter. 

So reviewing the 12v path, I suspected the fuse once again.  Removed it, visually good.  Ohm'd it and it failed.  Rummaged around, found a fuse, installed and voila.  I think the first time I've had a glass fuse fail with no witness.

So I'd start with the fuse (and ohm it).  I'd ohm the neutral switch.  I'd test solenoid and starter with jumper battery.  Pretty much that order.  Stop when it cranks/runs. 

[Rob]

I love the idea of checking voltage at the starter.  Will do that

I did visually check the fuse (forgot to mention that).  But I will ohm it as well.  Great thought.

It just seems so weird that it was working, the cable broke, and once I was able to move it into neutral, it no longer cranks.  It was about 3-4 days between the issue and my jerry rigging the cable, but it just sat in the garage between those two events. 

I did pull it about 40 yards to the garage in gear with the power off after it failed.  I can't see how that would have caused any issues other than my back.

[EnglishSetter]

The neutral safety switch is just a switch.  In neutral you should have continuity between the 2 pins. Been known to jumper them on a boat trans to get home. 

Not sure how the PTO/electric clutch interrupt works.   Similar I'm sure.