Salvaging a solid, but really poorly done stock

[JDHasty]

I’ve been posting quite a bit on this project.  There are a lot of photos and I’m trying to describe what my thoughts are and basically stepping through why, what I’m doing, how I do it and what tools I’m using.  Feel free to ask any questions or ask me to expand on anything. 

https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/stevens-44-1-2-target-rifle.1336049/

I’m a bit further along than in the second photo.  The basic pattern would not be my first choice, but ya gots what ya gots to work with. 

I will take this all the way through the finishing process.  The finish on it is really bad, it’s never going to be on the cover of Guns Illustrated, but it’s going to finish up nicely. 

It will be a really good subject for illustrating how there is hope for almost any solid stock, no matter how ugly it looks. 

[JDHasty]

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[JDHasty]

Ended up looking pretty nice looking outfit.  Put a Tasco #706 12X on it. 

[mountainman]

Love the sharpness of the shadow line! Good job buddy!!

[JDHasty]

Thank you. 

The pin hole in the hammer is a bit wallowed out, at some point we are going to see if we can bush it.  On my Stevens 414 Armory the pin hole was so close to the edge that we just went ahead and made a new hammer for it.  Might have to go that route on this one.  It’s working fine, but it never hurts to fix something you know needs fixing.  I have a double set tang and ball and spur lever, but it’s for a pistol grip.  It would be nice to stumble across parts and upgrade this one. 

[mountainman]

Is that an Unertl on top?

[JDHasty]

It is a Tasco #706 12X

In the 1960s Tasco was having their scopes manufactured by Hakko in Japan.  Very good to excellent quality scopes.  They came out with an entire line of externally adjustable target scopes that included the #705 6-18 Variable and in fixed power 12 up to 24 IIRC.  Had they not cheaped out on the mounts it would have been much better for them. The reception they got was tempered by that.  Regarding the glass, it's darn good.  The mounts are a little sketchy, but not as bad as a lot of folks make them out to be.  I have a couple of them in 12 power #706.  Steve Earl makes first rate mounts for them though.   

In the late 1970's early 1980s we could finally afford Leupold fixed power 24X Benchrest and 6.5-20 Variables and put away our externally adjustable target scopes for varmint shooting.  Glad I kept some around.

[mountainman]

It is a Tasco #706 12X

In the 1960s Tasco was having their scopes manufactured by Hakko in Japan.  Very good to excellent quality scopes.  They came out with an entire line of externally adjustable target scopes that included the #705 6-18 Variable and in fixed power 12 up to 24 IIRC.  Had they not cheaped out on the mounts it would have been much better for them. The reception they got was tempered by that.  Regarding the glass, it's darn good.  The mounts are a little sketchy, but not as bad as a lot of folks make them out to be.  I have a couple of them in 12 power #706.  Steve Earl makes first rate mounts for them though.   

In the late 1970's early 1980s we could finally afford Leupold fixed power 24X Benchrest and 6.5-20 Variables and put away our externally adjustable target scopes for varmint shooting.  Glad I kept some around.

Thank you for the description and history!

[hookr88]

Getting ready to refinish and re blue a Ruger M77 tang safety. Vintage 1976 in .270 Win. How did you strip the stock? Chemically or sanding?

[JDHasty]

I use cabinet scrapers and a flat Fisher inletting scraper up close to the checkering and inletting, then sand to 320. I have found that best for me.  I seal the stock with 50/50 Spar Varnish/mineral spirits.  Two or three coats of sealer.  Ruger stocks are darn good wood, but frequently stained darker.  Walnut takes stain well, but use a pre stain conditioner first anyway.  Stain and conditioner are available at Home Depot.  I prefer Pro Custom Oil, but nothing wrong with Tru Oil.  Pro Custom is thinner.  I do use Tru Oil still too though, not as much these days.

Patience and perseverance are what nearly guarantees success.  Hit me with a PM if you need any advice or help.  I have posted a lot on various projects on RFC, but my communication regarding what I'm doing can be cryptic, I guess maybe it's more that I don't go into detail on what I'm doing at certain points.  I always return calls if you need more clarification on anything. 

Midway has the Fisher scraper and I get Pro Custom from Brownells.  Amazon has cabinet scrapers, just one about the size of a credit card is all you need.  I have the whole job complete in an hour or so.  The inside curves at the nose of the comb I just sand with 320 around a dowel.  USE A SANDING BLOCK always.  No freehand sanding.  I tape off about a quarter inch back from checkering, inletting and detail with blue painters tape then get my mind right before shifting into granny gear and really focusing.       

[hookr88]

Thanks for the info. That’ll get me started on stripping the stock. As for the finishing sequence. Conditioner, stain, tru oil (already bought it) and last seal with the 50/50?

[TheYoungSelfStarter]

Great work!

Love the choice of glass on top as well!

[JDHasty]

Thanks for the info. That’ll get me started on stripping the stock. As for the finishing sequence. Conditioner, stain, tru oil (already bought it) and last seal with the 50/50?

Strip, sand, de whisker, conditioner, stain, a couple coats of 50/50 Polyurethane/mineral spirits to seal it, then build up your finish with Tru Oil.  I try and stay out of checkering if at all viable and still do a nice job. 

[hookr88]

Perfect, thank you.

[JDHasty]

I sent you a PM
Looks like a great candidate.