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Author Topic: Traditional Arrows?  (Read 3578 times)

Offline dirty.dan4

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Traditional Arrows?
« on: February 21, 2009, 12:36:28 PM »
I am using carbon fiber arrows with my recurve.  I was wondering if anyone has any input on aluminum over carbon.  I was looking into the Easton Lagacy arrows, any remarks?

Offline Aneoakleaf

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #1 on: February 21, 2009, 04:53:45 PM »
Hi D D , Aluminun arrows flex more and are more forgiving.
Are you going to hunt or just shoot tournaments or both??
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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #2 on: February 21, 2009, 04:59:56 PM »
I use traditional grain carbon Gold tips.  I like them.  Don't like aluminium.  They bend too easy, even high end ones.  If you are a NEW trad shooter, you'll be going through alot of arrows.  Once again though, everyone has an opinion I am sure

Offline Ray

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #3 on: February 21, 2009, 05:14:42 PM »
I made up my first dozen carbon arrows last week. They are Carbon Express Heritage. Those are very accurate. I have a few dozen wood arrows which I assemble (my friends always break them). The wood arrows shoot very well. I also have 3 aluminum arrows with judo points which I have not shot much. Those are intended for birds.

I'm interested to hear more about aluminum opinions. However I prefer wood and carbon.

Offline dirty.dan4

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #4 on: February 22, 2009, 09:41:02 AM »
I use the Cabelas Extreme Stalker Carbon Arrows with the feather fletchings.  I only hunt with them.  I like them but I am not sure about the accuracy.  It could be me :dunno:

Offline Ray

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #5 on: February 22, 2009, 10:13:54 AM »
Besides the shooter , I noticed the carbon arrow accuracy will be affected by the arrow weight, broadhead or tip weight, insert weights. When I picked up the carbon arrows I learned that with 50 grain insert weights the arrows were not as accurate as without them. I tried to stay within published recommendations and was pleased. Maybe you should try a test pack of arrows with different broadheads and or weights. I have some extra 50 grain brass inserts I would give you as I don't need them.

The idea would be to try different setups before committing to an arrow which might not work. I have noticed that choosing wood arrows is a lot less complex of an issue (no brainer) than getting a carbon arrow setup correct. Or maybe I have just been lucky.

Offline dirty.dan4

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #6 on: February 22, 2009, 10:22:10 AM »
Where could I find some wood arrows?  Do I have to fletch and nock them?  If so, where do I find the stuff to do that?

Offline Ray

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #7 on: February 22, 2009, 10:25:06 AM »
I get wood arrows at http://3riversarchery.com

Here is their chart recommendation http://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/WoodChart.pdf

I have some extra nocks and 3 fletching jigs you can borrow if you want to use them. Depending on your draw length I might even give you some shafts to try out which are spined at 55-60 and cut to about 27.5 inches or so. What is the draw weight on your bow and your draw length?

Offline dirty.dan4

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #8 on: February 22, 2009, 10:27:16 AM »
Draw weight 50 lbs  Draw length 28". 

Offline MLBowhunting

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #9 on: February 22, 2009, 10:37:17 AM »
i shoot easton epic 340s with blazer vanes out of my hoyt gamemaster and they fly great,  Now the cabelas arrow are just rejects for the major arrow companys so i would recommend not shooting them.   :twocents:
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Offline ribka

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #10 on: February 22, 2009, 10:43:06 AM »
Shoot wood from my longbow and carbon now from my recurve. Shot aluminum for 20 years and switched to carbon. I like Gold Tips and Beamans for carbon arrows. As mentioned might have to add some weight to carbon to shoot better. Have used Cabelas carbon arrrows and have been not to happy with quality and accuracy.

I buy most of my traditional gear from 3 Rivers and am happy with their service and quality of products.

Offline Ray

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #11 on: February 22, 2009, 10:59:49 AM »
Dan you can have some cedar arrow shafts of mine. I need to check if I have cut them down or not. Otherwise they could be 1/2 inch too short. They might be good to try out. Oh an my fletching jigs are left wing. I am a right handed shooter but that is what I prefer..

Offline Hornseeker

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2009, 11:15:52 AM »
OK... all three materials work GREAT... Aluminum doesnt "flex more" and aren't "more forgiving" than carbon... that is a shaft specific quality...wood falls into the same category. If you have a stiff spined carbon and weak aluminum...yeah.. the aluminum flexes more.. if you have a stiff alum and a weak carbon, the carbon flexes more.. If they are equal spined... they flex the same. The carbon "generally" recovers from paradox quicker than aluminum, but that is not a rule...

Whenever you change the length or point weight or nock fit of any arrow... you are changing how that arrow shoots out of your bow. When your form is consistent...changing 50 grains up front can make a huge difference in arrow flight..

When you put more weight on the front, ie; 125 tip to a 200 gr. tip... you "weaken" the dynamic spine of the arrow..If you shorten a shaft, you strengthen the dynamic spine..

THE best way to determine the best arrow setup for you and your bow, is to bare shaft tune.
http://www.bowmaker.net/index2.htm
Check that link.. it explains it very well. Basically.... if your bare shafts group with your fletch shafts... you are money.. The Olympic archers (and other top notch archers) can shoot bare shafts, no fletching, to 100 yards and still group with their fletched shafts. ITs amazing...

Good Luck!!!!
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Offline tlbradford

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Re: Traditional Arrows?
« Reply #13 on: August 12, 2009, 08:34:53 PM »
Hornseeker,  I pulled this back to the top because I remembered you had a great link for tuning arrows.  I have a question on this.  My longbow has a 1" shelf that is in the middle of my grip.  According to this link I should have the contact point be at the lowest point of my grip.  Should I move it back, so my bow is a little more forgiving if I don't have perfect form?  How important do you think this adjustment is in the overall scheme of things?
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