Free: Contests & Raffles.
I guess my question would be, how does it shoot now? Tikka's are known for being pretty darn accurate. First thing I start with is a trigger job. Possibly an optic and optic mount upgrade You'd be surprised at how accurate a rifle can be when the shooter can really do his part. To answer your question directly. No bore is completely strait through a barrel. It actually bows, or spirals. The smith may recut the chamber so that the lands and throat are straight with the axis of the chamber shoulder then cut the heal of the barrel to line up with the face of the action and bolt. Target crown. High quality stainless one piece scope mount and rings. Not aluminum. You give up a little in weight, but gain in reduced flex. A belted magnum head spaces on the belt, and there's a tollarance for factory built rifles. A smith will most likely 'adjust' head space to be a bit more precise. That's just a small part of it. Your average smith does not do this. You'll be looking for a smith that is also a long range shooter himself. You cannot expect a light rifle/barrel to be as accurate as a heavy target barrel as the light one will change tension throughout it's length as it warms up from shooting. But many of the same tricks used by long range competitors can be incorporated into the build of a light rifle so that it's first 'Cold Barrel Shot' is consistant with it's last cold barrel shot. -Steve
A light weight 300 Mag can be brutal to shoot for the amount that is needed to learn to shoot it at long range. I used to shoot Metalic sihloutetts and just spending alot of time can behind a 308 can be hard. I built a longrange 300 Win Mag in the late 70's and sold it as soon as I could and it weighed 9+#. AWS
I agree that is how you become a long range shooter, lots of practice under all sorts of conditions. I still think a lightweight 300 mag will beat the heck out of you trying to learn to shoot it.I missed the post on how accurate your Tikka is, a MOA 300 Mag is a pretty nice rig. What has been done to the rifle already, how many rounds down the tube and how many different powders and bullets have tried loading for this rig?AWS
I love Tikkas for what they are, I am not sure how they would take to custom work or which Smiths will work on them. For the cost of custom work you could likely buy another rifle.I would be willing to bet that if you go to a Remington action and add the price of the action in you'll still end up with more rifle for the money, than trying to work on your Tikka, every body works on remingtons!What have you done to try to squeeze the best out of the Tikka?Carl
I just went back to your original bost and saw it is a light model. I don't think you will ever shoot it accuratly. My buddy got one of those in a trade and he wanted to make it his high country rifle. We were at he range one day and he couldn't get a good group to save his life. I tried to see what I could do with it and after the second shot, I told him he should wrap it around the nearest tree he could find. The first shot kicked me so hard, my back popped from the top of my neck to my tail bone. The second shot I flinched so bad I hit about six inches off center. He tried a few different loads for it but was not very successful. The bullet had a .75 inch jump before it even hit the lands. This is not always bad but it does not work with most bullets.I would tend to agree Bofire about costs. Sticking with a Winchester or Remington(my favorite) ar even a good old mauser action will be cheaper in the long run. I always look for pawn shop beaters or junk guns at the gun shows. The most I have paid for a remington 700 action is $200.
You people sound like a bunch of morons.
I am surprised at the trigger job, I think If I were you, I'd look at the stock, bedding etc at this point. Maybe more scope, if you are going to true the action it might as well be bedded well in a good stock!Carl