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Author Topic: Rebarreling Question  (Read 8475 times)

Offline Bofire

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #15 on: December 14, 2009, 04:08:40 PM »
I love Tikkas for what they are, I am not sure how they would take to custom work or which Smiths will work on them. For the cost of custom work you could likely buy another rifle.
I would be willing to bet that if you go to a Remington action and add the price of the action in you'll still end up with more rifle for the money, than trying to work on your Tikka, every body works on remingtons!
What have you done to try to squeeze the best out of the Tikka?
Carl
When the chips are down..... the buffalo is empty!!

I do not shop at Amazon

Offline jjhunter

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #16 on: December 14, 2009, 04:12:45 PM »
I built a consistent 1/2" 300 win mag last year.  It will actually do under a 1/4" at 100 with 190 Bergers, but not consistent enough to claim.  Even with bad shot it is easy to keep under 1/2".  It really shines at LR.  I have only taken this rifle to the 600 yard line, but it has shot sub 1 1/2" groups on several occasions off a quality bench rest front and rear bag.  

This gun is HEAVY at about 14 lbs w/ scope.   Total cost was around $4500.   It takes quality components, a competent smith, and weight to get a .300 to shoot like this.  I am shooting 190 Bergers at 3125.  Nosler custom brass, Federal Gold Medal 215M primers, H4831.  It's heavy to pack around but I wouldn't want to be down-range inside of 750 yards.

Offline haugenna

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #17 on: December 14, 2009, 04:32:14 PM »
I agree that is how you become a long range shooter, lots of practice under all sorts of conditions.  I still think a lightweight 300 mag will beat the heck out of you trying to learn to shoot it.


I missed the post on how accurate your Tikka is, a MOA 300 Mag is a pretty nice rig.  What has been done to the rifle already, how many rounds down the tube and how many different powders and bullets have tried loading  for this rig?



AWS

I have lightened the trigger and put a muzzle brake on it.  I hand tuned some loads and got it shooting real nice.  Not on a lead sled.  Did some prone shooting off a bipod.


Offline AWS

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #18 on: December 14, 2009, 04:45:32 PM »
Have fun building your rig, and I hope it turns out to be everything you hope (seriously).  That's what being a gun loony is all about.  I load and hunt with eight different coyote guns and nonr are still in their original condition.

AWS
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Offline WDFW-SUX

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #19 on: December 14, 2009, 04:47:14 PM »
I have a Pac nor and a Kreiger.. they both shoot really well. I cant think of anything negative about either one.  One's a straight up custom and the other was done by Weatherby.  The weatherby is an ultralight in 300 WBY and is the most accurate rifle I own. I did have it re crowned by a different smith when I had a break put on it.  I can key hole shots at 100 yards on a good no coffee day. The other rifle is heaver and shoots good too its a 7 mag. Shop around and find the best smith you can afford.

Here is where one of mine came from.

http://www.weaverrifles.com/
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Offline haugenna

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #20 on: December 14, 2009, 05:04:36 PM »
I love Tikkas for what they are, I am not sure how they would take to custom work or which Smiths will work on them. For the cost of custom work you could likely buy another rifle.
I would be willing to bet that if you go to a Remington action and add the price of the action in you'll still end up with more rifle for the money, than trying to work on your Tikka, every body works on remingtons!
What have you done to try to squeeze the best out of the Tikka?
Carl


I found a smith in Bonney Lake that loves the stiffness of the Tikka action.  I have a few hundred rounds down the tube. 

If I buy another rifle though....I will be right back where I started. 

I did a trigger job, muzzle brake thus far.

Offline robescc

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #21 on: December 14, 2009, 05:09:47 PM »
I just went back to your original bost and saw it is a light model. I don't think you will ever shoot it accuratly.  My buddy got one of those in a trade and he wanted to make it his high country rifle.  We were at he range one day and he couldn't get a good group to save his life.  I tried to see what I could do with it and after the second shot, I told him he should wrap it around the nearest tree he could find.  The first shot kicked me so hard, my back popped from the top of my neck to my tail bone.  The second shot I flinched so bad I hit about six inches off center.  He tried a few different loads for it but was not very successful.  The bullet had a .75 inch jump before it even hit the lands.  This is not always bad but it does not work with most bullets.
I would tend to agree Bofire about costs. Sticking with a Winchester or Remington(my favorite) ar even a good old mauser action will be cheaper in the long run.  I always look for pawn shop beaters or junk guns at the gun shows.  The most I have paid for a remington 700 action is $200.
I hunt therefore I am.

Offline haugenna

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #22 on: December 14, 2009, 05:20:15 PM »
I just went back to your original bost and saw it is a light model. I don't think you will ever shoot it accuratly.  My buddy got one of those in a trade and he wanted to make it his high country rifle.  We were at he range one day and he couldn't get a good group to save his life.  I tried to see what I could do with it and after the second shot, I told him he should wrap it around the nearest tree he could find.  The first shot kicked me so hard, my back popped from the top of my neck to my tail bone.  The second shot I flinched so bad I hit about six inches off center.  He tried a few different loads for it but was not very successful.  The bullet had a .75 inch jump before it even hit the lands.  This is not always bad but it does not work with most bullets.
I would tend to agree Bofire about costs. Sticking with a Winchester or Remington(my favorite) ar even a good old mauser action will be cheaper in the long run.  I always look for pawn shop beaters or junk guns at the gun shows.  The most I have paid for a remington 700 action is $200.

The gun already shoots real well.  I want it to shoot better than it does.  See this thread from the past.  
http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,28797.msg336941.html#msg336941

pictures are part way down.  Notice the 200 yard distance.

Offline bod

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #23 on: December 14, 2009, 05:21:34 PM »
 You people sound like a bunch of morons.

Offline haugenna

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #24 on: December 14, 2009, 06:07:03 PM »
WDFW  thanks for the link.  I think I have my question answered.

From Weaver's site:

Action Truing:

I am commonly asked, Do I need to true my action? The answer is simply a YES or NO. The majority of factory actions need some work. If you want precision and accuracy out of your rifle, then Yes you need your action trued. If you are satisfied with to inch groups or are only intending to shoot factory ammo thru your new barrel then No you do not need your action trued. How I true an action. I use very precise tooling made by GTR and Manson Tooling. I first ream the bolt raceways of the action. Then I re-cut the receiver threads, square the recoil lugs and front of the receiver. Next I true the bolt to the center line of the firing pin hole. If needed, I will fit a bushing on the front and or back of the bolt to insure the bolt will always be centered in the receiver. Last, I true the recoil lugs and bolt face. This process takes about 8 to 12 hours. Truing an action is a time consuming and very exacting art, thus the expense.

Offline robescc

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #25 on: December 14, 2009, 06:26:40 PM »
You people sound like a bunch of morons.

And who the hell are you?  I would like to think that as many rounds that I have fired and many hours doing so, I know what I am talking about.  You probably only shoot what, like two times a year?
Way to make an entrance newbie.   :mor:
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Offline Bofire

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #26 on: December 15, 2009, 04:52:43 PM »
I am surprised at the trigger job, I think If I were you, I'd look at the stock, bedding etc at this point. Maybe  more scope, if you are going to true the action it might as well be bedded well in a good stock!
Carl
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I do not shop at Amazon

Offline haugenna

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #27 on: December 15, 2009, 09:15:46 PM »
I am surprised at the trigger job, I think If I were you, I'd look at the stock, bedding etc at this point. Maybe  more scope, if you are going to true the action it might as well be bedded well in a good stock!
Carl

How much of accuracy is determined by the stock?  The gun fits me pretty well the way it is.  I am not too crazy about sinking a bunch more money into a new stock.  Can you restock the gun after the action is trued?

What suprises you about the trigger job out of curiousity? 

I am looking at upgrading to the vx3 4.5-14.  You are right on that.  Might as well have him bed the action as well while he is in there.  Last but not least, true up the action.  I am going to inquire about the custom barrel cost.  Decisions decisions. 

Offline Bofire

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #28 on: December 16, 2009, 11:47:33 AM »
It is fun tho huh!! I have a bunch of Tikkas they have really good triggers. my opinion. The stock can have a large impact relative to consistency, and your comfort. A new High Quality Barrel can make a big difference.
Carl
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I do not shop at Amazon

Offline haugenna

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Re: Rebarreling Question
« Reply #29 on: December 16, 2009, 09:08:38 PM »
What kind of lighweight stocks are out there for a Tikka? How much does the standard one weigh? 

 


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