Ultimate Wet-stern rifle

[Deep Forks]

I think a few of you guys have missed the point of this thread, its your DREAM gun with NO budget for the wet-side that would be practical for just about any situation you would encounter ie thick reprod open timber big clear cuts etc. I have a hard time beleiving anyones dream gun would be a $300 savage edge or a 30-30 levergun, but I could be wrong  
Ruger used to make an awesome lookin gun that I drooled over, it had a stainless 20 inch barrel with a shadow stalk and came in 300 wsm and 7/08 it even had the scope mounted further forward then usual for quick use in thick brush, I cant remember the name of the gun though. My other dream gun would be a stainless browning BLR takedown in 308 with leupy glass. I love those guns. When I used to hunt with rifle over here my go to gun was my stainless synthetic savage  270 topped with an alaskan guide 3.5-10x44, it was a fairly cheap gun that drives tacs and doesnt rust while being fairly light weight.

The Ruger you're referring to is a M77 mark II.  I have a BLR ss in grey laminated stock chambered in 300wsm.  Would still rather use my savage m99f in the brush, but that's just me.  

[deerslyr]

Man the model 99 was my first love. I was lent one for a few seasons when I was 11 or 12 that was chambered in 308 and had a shortened stock, best dam gun ive ever hunted felt and I often wondered how many deer and elk it had killed. I was heart broken when I had to give that gun back felt like it was mine, thats when I went out and bought the 270 which I also really like but its just not the same.

[JackOfAllTrades]

The thing is.. for the wetside, you really don't need long barrels, magnum cartridges, and spendy scopes.  I've killed more deer with iron sights and short barrels (30-30 lever gun and 44mag pistol), than I ever could have with scopes and long barrels. A lever gun that is built for the elements with irons/peeps is all one needs to be successful. Sure, there are longer shots across canyons and clear cuts, but that is not the norm, and if you're hunting those areas, then you'll pack a different rifle.

-Steve

[Hyde]

just for fun, or do you have the green light?

Well, having built several project rifles, I can say it is very fun.  And I always have the green light (and the ex wives to prove it)  


I haven't heard anyone mention a Rogaurd finish (or the likes).  I customized a Marlin 1895 in 45/70 with all the slick bells and whistles, including a Leupy scout scope in QRW rings, ghost ring backups, oversized loop handle, aluminum follower, I took the silly crossbolt safety gizmo out, and sent it off to Robar for the Rogaurd/NP3 treatment.  The only thing I didn't get to was a custom synthetic stock.  My wife's sister fought a nasty battle with leukemia, (no health ins), so we were liquidating any and everything possible to keep her in treatment.  That rifle was one of many that went down the road.  I never hunted with it.  I would call it pretty close to a perfect Northwest brush gun, but the 45/70 is lacking much past 200 yards, which takes it out of the race in my scenario here.  

I like the 358 Winchester idea, that seems like a great heavy hitter for brush country.  Not "dainty" at all.  That's what I'm looking for.  How does it perform out past 200?  Will it perform in a 22 inch barrel?  I'm also thinking of the 308 win.  

[Hyde]

Man the model 99 was my first love.

I hear you there.  My first encounter with a 99 was when I was 13.  It was my first rifle, in 308.  My Pops had one in .284 win, which is what I wanted, but there were none to be found when it was my turn to get one.  I found one in .284 some years later and bought it for 200.00.  I took it home, and my Pops IMMEDIATELY claimed it.  He wanted it to go with his other one, and he still has both today (he used the ol' "you'll get them all back some day" trick on me).  Those are worth a small fortune today, and both have accounted for many meals. 

I love the 99.  I wish they would make a comeback. 

[Kain]

Im not a gun guy at all but for the west side I would want a couple of things out of a gun.

1. Weather proof.  Either SS or good coating on metal.  Synthetic stock.
2. Light, short and fast.  Brush is thick, gates are locked, animals dont stand around.
3. Heavy round nose bullet.  Not easily deflected by a blade of grass or small twigs.  Long range is not a priority.
4. Knockdown overkill.  I hate tracking blood trails through thick brush and most days it is raining hard enough to loose a trail very fast.
Optional: Fast follow up shot if needed.  Its just nice.

I think the lever actions with open sites or a 3x9 scope with good fog proofing is great.
The AR I posted earlier is very appealing to me but that is just a personal preference.
A slug gun would fit the bill very nicely also.

Sounds pretty boring but I would take all the money saved and buy other top of the line gear instead.  Packs, camo and so on.

[Alchase]

Well, here are my  

First off, you do not need a different rifle for hunting the West (or wet) side vs hunting the east side. Unless you just want to buy another rifle.  Anyone who says you need a brush gun on the west side is buying in to the brush gun myth. There are tons of info out there that shows no discernible difference shooting larger caliber or heavier grain vs smaller caliber and lighter grain while hunting in heavy brush. Are you actually planning on shooting through the brush? Yes many people have hunted the west side with 30-30 levers. And short barrelled carbines. I would bet 10 times that many use any of the common hunting calibers in a bolt action or semi's that they would also use on the east side. As for scopes, hunting thick brush with a good scope increases you chances of seeing the ear or tail flick in my opinion. A good stainless/synthetic would probably be better suited for the wet, but for generations hunters used only blued and wood.
To sum it up, buy what you can afford that can be utilized for the most possible uses. If a 30-30 lever fits that, then more power to you. If I was choosing one rifle it would be stainless/synthetic (but a blued/wood stock rifle would shoot just as well just not as weather proof) in a suitable caliber then go with as nice of a scope as you can afford.
Sorry I do not believe the "myth" of a brush gun need for hunting washington. Alaska, in bear country ya.
  

[Alchase]

Forgot to add my choice, lol

Sako, Finlight (stainless/composite), 300 win mag, curently with a Leopold VXIII.

If I would change anything with no budget worries it would be a Swarovski Z6i Illuminated 3-18x50 scope.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/swarovski-illuminated-riflescope-z6i-3-18x50.html

[grundy53]

Well, here are my  

First off, you do not need a different rifle for hunting the West (or wet) side vs hunting the east side. Unless you just want to buy another rifle.  Anyone who says you need a brush gun on the west side is buying in to the brush gun myth. There are tons of info out there that shows no discernible difference shooting larger caliber or heavier grain vs smaller caliber and lighter grain while hunting in heavy brush. Are you actually planning on shooting through the brush? Yes many people have hunted the west side with 30-30 levers. And short barrelled carbines. I would bet 10 times that many use any of the common hunting calibers in a bolt action or semi's that they would also use on the east side. As for scopes, hunting thick brush with a good scope increases you chances of seeing the ear or tail flick in my opinion. A good stainless/synthetic would probably be better suited for the wet, but for generations hunters used only blued and wood.
To sum it up, buy what you can afford that can be utilized for the most possible uses. If a 30-30 lever fits that, then more power to you. If I was choosing one rifle it would be stainless/synthetic (but a blued/wood stock rifle would shoot just as well just not as weather proof) in a suitable caliber then go with as nice of a scope as you can afford.
Sorry I do not believe the "myth" of a brush gun need for hunting washington. Alaska, in bear country ya.
  

i agree. except i would go with the larger caliber not for shooting through brush but for the knock down power. as we all know it rains a lot over here and i don't want to have to try to follow a blood trail too long in pouring down rain. other then that you are correct. but i do prefer a shorter barrel over here just for when i'm crawling through the brush. and yes i usually use the same guns east and west.

[JackOfAllTrades]

i agree. except i would go with the larger caliber not for shooting through brush but for the knock down power. as we all know it rains a lot over here and i don't want to have to try to follow a blood trail too long in pouring down rain. other then that you are correct. but i do prefer a shorter barrel over here just for when i'm crawling through the brush. and yes i usually use the same guns east and west.

Yup!

[Kain]

Dont really plan on shooting through too much brush but have seen small light super fast bullets get deflected or come apart when hitting a blade of grass or unseen twig.  I seriously doubt a shotgun slug that is heavy and slower is going to be too effected by a light brush at short range but I am no expert.  So something in the middle would be ideal.  

A "brush gun" is not really a myth more than a misused term.  IMO a brush gun would be short, light, large caliber with fast targeting. Something probably needed more in Africa and Alaska for defensive purposes.  

[Alchase]

I think Carmichel says it best right here, I tend to agree with him



http://www.outdoorlife.com/articles/gear/2007/09/knockdown-power

[CAMPMEAT]

450 Marlin, no scope.

[Kain]

I think Carmichel says it best right here, I tend to agree with him



http://www.outdoorlife.com/articles/gear/2007/09/knockdown-power

The article kinda falls apart at the end and he never really came to a conclusion other than knockdown power is a myth?  Maybe I should reread it.  Whatever you call it, knockdown power, stopping power or whatever, you cant tell me caliber and bullet dont have differences in effectiveness.  If you dont need a bullet to perform at long range you have a lot more options to play with.  Try to find a bullet/caliber that performs at the ranges you need it to and transfers as much energy to the animals as possible for maximum damage.  If nothing else a bigger bullet makes a bigger hole. 

[grundy53]

I think Carmichel says it best right here, I tend to agree with him



http://www.outdoorlife.com/articles/gear/2007/09/knockdown-power

The article kinda falls apart at the end and he never really came to a conclusion other than knockdown power is a myth?  Maybe I should reread it.  Whatever you call it, knockdown power, stopping power or whatever, you cant tell me caliber and bullet dont have differences in effectiveness.  If you dont need a bullet to perform at long range you have a lot more options to play with.  Try to find a bullet/caliber that performs at the ranges you need it to and transfers as much energy to the animals as possible for maximum damage.  If nothing else a bigger bullet makes a bigger hole.