Paper Tuning Problems

[oneshotkill]

I am in the process of paper tuning my bow and am having some issues.  I worked out the side to side quickly and that is shooting perfect but the vertical is throwing me for a loop.  I consistently have a straight up and down tear about three inches long with the point on the bottom and the fletching/nock on the top.  If I am not mistaken that would call for you to lower you nock point or raise your rest.  My problem is no matter what I do I am getting the same tear.  I raised my rest and there was no change.  I lowered my rest below where it was originally and there was not change.  I fairly drastically raised my rest and there was not change.  I lowered it as low as it would go and the rip was exactly the same.  Any ideas?  Thanks.

[Button Nubbs]

Could it be user related? Is your arrow cutting the berger button in half? Major contact from somewhere?

[hughjorgan]

Maybe your rest is not level on your bow 

[Duffer]

3 thoughts:

your fletchings are contacting something on the way out

if your bow is dual cam, the cams are out of time

your arrows' spines are wrong for your draw weight & length

[bwhntr350]

3 thoughts:

your fletchings are contacting something on the way out

if your bow is dual cam, the cams are out of time

your arrows' spines are wrong for your draw weight & length

 ^ That's a hell of a first post^
 I am going with the Duffer on this problem

[oneshotkill]

3 thoughts:

your fletchings are contacting something on the way out

if your bow is dual cam, the cams are out of time

your arrows' spines are wrong for your draw weight & length

How would I figure out if my cams are out of time?
My arrows spine should be right because I looked at the chart for my draw weight and length.
Thanks for the tips!

[D-Rock425]

My guess would be fletching contact

[alwinearcher]

3 thoughts:

your fletchings are contacting something on the way out

if your bow is dual cam, the cams are out of time

your arrows' spines are wrong for your draw weight & length

How would I figure out if my cams are out of time?
My arrows spine should be right because I looked at the chart for my draw weight and length.
Thanks for the tips!

It does sound like timeing could be an issue.
Are you shooting a two cam bow?

[oneshotkill]

3 thoughts:

your fletchings are contacting something on the way out

if your bow is dual cam, the cams are out of time

your arrows' spines are wrong for your draw weight & length

How would I figure out if my cams are out of time?
My arrows spine should be right because I looked at the chart for my draw weight and length.
Thanks for the tips!

It does sound like timeing could be an issue.
Are you shooting a two cam bow?

I am shooting a 2006 Bowtech Allegience set at 70 lbs. and am shooting Easton Lightspeed 340's cut to 28 inches.

[Jason]

Only thing I could think of that hasn't already been mention, is that if your shooting with a realease loop or D-loop is to make sure your loop knots are not pinching your nock when you draw, if this is the problem and or your not sure, then you may need to tie in some nock sets.

[alwinearcher]

3 thoughts:

your fletchings are contacting something on the way out

if your bow is dual cam, the cams are out of time

your arrows' spines are wrong for your draw weight & length

How would I figure out if my cams are out of time?
My arrows spine should be right because I looked at the chart for my draw weight and length.
Thanks for the tips!

It does sound like timeing could be an issue.
Are you shooting a two cam bow?

I am shooting a 2006 Bowtech Allegience set at 70 lbs. and am shooting Easton Lightspeed 340's cut to 28 inches.

Spine sounds right.
What area do you live in? there has to be someone close to you who can tune it up right?

[Duffer]

3 thoughts:

your fletchings are contacting something on the way out

if your bow is dual cam, the cams are out of time

your arrows' spines are wrong for your draw weight & length

How would I figure out if my cams are out of time?
My arrows spine should be right because I looked at the chart for my draw weight and length.
Thanks for the tips!

It does sound like timing could be an issue.
Are you shooting a two cam bow?

I am shooting a 2006 Bowtech Allegiance set at 70 lbs. and am shooting Easton Lightspeed 340's cut to 28 inches.

There are a lot of variables and not quite enough info. Your Ally is dual cam, so cams could definitely be out of time. Tho I'm not intimately familiar with her, there should be a series of marks on each cam that you would use to verify timing by lining them up with the string. More accurately tho would be to get her into a shop where they can mechanically draw her and verify that each cam is hitting the draw stops at the same time.

I don't have any spine charts here at work, but your choice is affected also by field point weight. So there's one more variable.

Jason's thoughts on your loop/nock/release situation are another variable.

What rest you have and how well it operates is yet another variable.

..... and just to add yet another (that I forgot) is your tiller adjustment. This one is easy to check yourself. (you can measure from the bow string, but) stretch a piece of twine from one cam axle to the other. Make sure it is either centered on the axles or (the way I do it) is wound across the back of each axle and then anchored on the bow somewhere. (like wedged into the cam) just as long as the twine is coming off the axles on the same side. Then measure from string (perpendicular) to the riser where each limb anchors. does not matter where exactly on the riser, just so you measure top and bottom from similar points. This is an indication that each limb is pulling the same from riser thru bow string. Tighten the limb that has the longer tiller measurement (or loosen the shorter. or both) until they are the same. Shoot it some and check again as things settle in.

I hope this helps instead of overwhelms!

Nice bow btw. 

[oneshotkill]

Thank you everybody for your help!  Now I at least have some thing to test and see if I can work this out.  The closest pro shop is an hour away and if it comes down to it I can take it there.  However I love to tinker with my gear so if I can figure it out myself I would enjoy that.  Also, I have been really busy of late and don't really have the time to take it to the shop.

[bullcanyon]

Are you using a drop away?  If so you might need to take a twist out of the down cable that the rest is tied into.  The rest will add pressure to it causing tuning issues.  Supposedly the new qad is better for this?  If all the info you've gotten don't work.  Walk away from the paper and go outside and broadhead tune.  I would actually do that anyway.  Paper tuning is just a ball park.  Sounds like you are close enough to walkback or bh tune.  I'd try those.  Should do it anyways.  A bullet hole through paper doesn't mean the rest won't need to be minutely adjusted when you start dialing it in with walk back or bh tuning.  Google easton tuning guide and follow that for the other tuning methods or check youtube if you need some ideas.

Good luck
Kris

[huntinfool86]

i was taught not to get over worried about paper tuning, its all about shooting and getting a good group