I want an AR...Which is best?

[FALFire]

I'm not saying RRA's are bad guns at all but rather they are considered commercial grade and not top tear guns.

Written by Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (BATFE), Chief of the Firearms Technology Branch
...M16 bolt carriers are not designed and intended solely and exclusively for use in converting a weapon into a machinegun and are not any combination of parts from which a machinegun can be assembled.  Further, an M16 bolt carrier is not a firearm as defined in the GCA or a machinegun as defined in the NFA.  An M16 bolt carrier is simply a machinegun part and as such its domestic sale and possession is unregulated under the Federal firearms laws.  It is not unlawful to utilize a M16 machinegun bolt carrier in a semiautomatic AR15 type rifle.

It is legal. What you need an NFA stamp for is the Auto/Burst Fire FCG.

The difference between the different types of BCGs is the design and weight. FA (Full auto) vs. M16 vs. SA (Semi auto) differ in design (slightly) and weight. What makes FAs so reliable is that they are heavier, allowing for a more consistent cycling motion (from my understanding)... hopefully leading to less FTF/FTEs.

Okay that is what BATF states but you are in Washington State and the law here states...read the link.

http://apps.leg.wa.gov/Rcw/default.aspx?cite=9.41.220

Now what you get into here is the possibility of having your firearm confiscated and held until BATF can determine if your firearm meets State law requirements. I can tell you that if it is confiscated it will be sent to the State Firearms Laboratory and tested for ballistics match and not treated very well. Maybe you will get it back and maybe you will not. I would say, keep known full auto parts away from your firearm and you should not have a problem. But it's your gun and your decision and your wallet.

Now for the reality of things, chances are if you choose to use any FA part no one would ever know but as they say in Iraq.....Sheithappins

[Schwag173]

*sigh* that list you are touting was just a price organized price list....It had nothing to do with quality.

Don't just guzzle that tired old kool-aid, spend your money on barrel +bolt, bolt carrier and trigger if you are building an AR. Many of the better barrels include a bolt.

FC is spot-on!  Anyone who has attended a Colt Armorer's Course will tell you that you can't just aimlessly throw a bunch of mixed parts together and expect primo functioning and accuracy out of an AR platform.  The best bet is to buy the upper group (assembled) from an outfit that knows what they're doing.  I'll admit to being a Larue snob.   

[jaymark6655]

From best to not-so-best;

Colt
BCM
Daniel Defense
Noveske
LMT
S&W
Sabre Defense
Armalite
CMMG
Stag
Bushmaster
Rock River Arms
Olympic
DPMS

This is the "list" I was directed too when I got into AR's. I also think Spikes is up there with BCM and LMT

Anyone else notice this list is the exact same as www.m4carbine.com or whatevers list of most expensive to cheapest?  My rifle basically is DPMS (minus stripped lower), 16" barrel with 1:9 twist.  It shoots better and seems more accurate than my dad's Colt with 1:7 match rifle, so I really doubt I would trust this list.

[huntandjeep]

I think Ar's are like scopes Leopolds better no Zeiss is no Burris is. Some people like the high end stuff (not bashing anybody) and some like what they can afford. Ive got an Oly lower with a Dpms upper works great for what i wanted it for. Is it a cheap gun i guess if you believe that list (authors opinion).   

[FC]

FC is spot-on!  Anyone who has attended a Colt Armorer's Course will tell you that you can't just aimlessly throw a bunch of mixed parts together and expect primo functioning and accuracy out of an AR platform. 

I think maybe you misunderstood me here, I've never attended a Colt Armorer's course but I did attend one put on by the Army The point is that you actually can do just that! If you have a pile of in spec parts you can assemble rifles from them that will shoot with military minimum or better accuracy and typical reliability.

When you get into the spendy barrel and bolt combos you are talking about match rifles, capable of 1/4 MOA or better, nice triggers just make the rifle easier to use and be able to consistently hit with.

[FALFire]

That's correct FC,

The heart of the AR is the barrel period. Everything else other than a good trigger is just stuff. All of my builds have come from parts ordered on the web or purchased at gun shows by reputable dealers and every single one of the with the exclusion of one barrel has functioned flawlessly. The barrel I'm talking about is from Black Hole Weaponry, I truly believe I just got one that is out of spec somewhere because I have not been able to get it to shoot reliably under 3 inch groups at 100 yards with over 2 dozen different bullet weights and powder charges, 3 different high end scopes and 2 different shooters all from a lead sled or sand bags. All of my builds have easily done 1 inch or better but this thing is just got a kink in it somewhere. Even my last 308 build does 1 inch groups at 200 yards and seriously whacks steel at 600 yards with a 20 inch tube. My 22-250 Savage with a 26" Shilen barrel shoots under 4 inch groups at 600 yards with ease. 

[halflife65]

Halflife,

if you are just looking for a plinker and home protection then most anything will do, I would recommend a 16" barrel with a 4 position collapsible stock and flat top A3 upper. A 9 twist will do just fine the 8 would be better if you wanted to shoot the 75 grain bullets but for plinking and your needs a 9 twist is plenty adequate.

However, an 18" mid length barrel port barrel may give you a little smoother functioning rifle with just a tad better reliability among ammo brands. It all has to do with dwell timing in the barrel for the gases etc.

A Wild Chamber is a chamber that is cut to allow the safe use of both commercial 223 and military surplus 5.56 ammo. It is just a slight adjustment in the chamber lead/throat area for pressure and by some, it's the greatest thing since sliced bread. To those of us that have discharged thousands of rounds in a standard 5.56 cut chamber it's really a moot point. But then again there are those out there  

If you plan on using it for hunting coyotes or ground squirrels then a 20" barrel may be a better setup. It will help get the sound just a little farther away and the balance can be better depending on stock configuration and your physical build.

Flash hiders are not necessary but a muzzle brake can be a benefit to reduce muzzle lift and you seeing your hits on target, they also tend to make follow up shots more accurate. The big downside of a brake is the noise, they can make your ears bleed  

White Oak makes some really nice stuff, their barrels are reported to give very good accuracy.

Chrome lined barrels are required for the military and not really needed for a good shooter/plinker. Accuracy can be somewhat sacrificed with chrome lining as it depends on the chroming performed I prefer, the non chrome lined barrels but I do have a couple that are chrome lined but it is what it is.

Thanks FALFire!  The flash hider was just something that seemed like a simple thing and then I realized there were 1,000,000 options on it - a muzzle brake is definitely something that would be more useful.  I have a brake on my .300 though and it feels like you go into a different dimension of time and space if you shoot it without hearing protection.

Thanks for all the advice on barrel length and the thing about the chrome lined barrel.  It's great that I can post a few questions and knowledgable people such as yourself can get me pointed in the right direction - I really appreciate it.

[FALFire]

Halflife,

I have an 18" barreled 6.8SPC with a PRI brake on it and felt recoil is like a 22LR rifle, it's a real pleasure to shoot with ear protection but it will make your teeth and eyes bleed without the muffs.

[Suncrest Sniper]

I just put a JP Tactical Recoil reducer on my AR and the recoil is null. But yes just ask my new deaf friend who was standing off to the side about the noise level.  It's loud when target shooting.

SS

[Schwag173]

FC is spot-on!  Anyone who has attended a Colt Armorer's Course will tell you that you can't just aimlessly throw a bunch of mixed parts together and expect primo functioning and accuracy out of an AR platform. 

I've never attended a Colt Armorer's course but I did attend one put on by the Army The point is that you actually can do just that! If you have a pile of in spec parts you can assemble rifles from them that will shoot with military minimum or better accuracy and typical reliability.

When you get into the spendy barrel and bolt combos you are talking about match rifles, capable of 1/4 MOA or better, nice triggers just make the rifle easier to use and be able to consistently hit with.

Oh dear, I can hear Ken Elmore choking on his beer as we type ...

[FC]

Oh dear, I can hear Ken Elmore choking on his beer as we type ...

Why? Do you think he is worried that too many people will realize this?

[Schwag173]

Ever hear the Johnny Cash song about the Cadillac he built himself from the parts he 'borrowed' from his assembly-line job?

[FC]

Ever hear the Johnny Cash song about the Cadillac he built himself from the parts he 'borrowed' from his assembly-line job?

Sure I've heard it but I don't see how it relates to an AR build? Are you having a hard time with the idea that you can throw all the parts necessary to build 1000 rifles in a swimming pool and by just grabbing the first parts that come to hand you can build 1000 military grade, effective rifles?

[Schwag173]

At the Colt factory, sure. 

[machine]

You can be grandfathered in and own full auto in Washington state.Other than that any full auto parts are illegal.I have a bushmaster that has run great with thousands of rounds as well as a couple friends with bushmasters.If I was looking for a new AR it would be bravo company or Daniel defense.