Broadhead problem

[DoubleJ]

OK, I'm on my 5th set of broadheads and none of them are flying right.  What else could be the problem?  My field points are dead on.  I spin test every arrow after putting on a BH and they are good.  I've tried Muzzy 3 blade 100 gn and 125gn, Magnus stingers 100gn and 125gn, and NAP Hellrazor 100gn.

What the hell?  I'm not made of money and can't keep going through brand after brand.  There has to be something else going on.

Shooting an Archery Research AR-34 set at 28" draw.  Have had it set from 40lbs all the way up to 67lbs.  Everytime I change a draw weight (due to shoulder injury, I've had to go from heavy to lighter), I've had it tuned.  I'd blame the arrows except, like I said, field points hit within an inch or 2 at 20 yards.  BH go low/right, low/left, high/center, completely missing the target, and all points in between.

[GoldTip]

Arrow spine?

[NWWABOWHNTR]

WHat spine arrows are you using and at what draw weight?  ALso, what length are they?  Here is what I would do...

Using field points, shoot a group at 20 yards, then shoot 2 bareshaft arrows and see where they hit in comparison to the fletched arrows (make sure you use field points!).  This will tell you if your arrows are spined correctly for your bow.  Tuning the bow is important but have the corretc spined arrows is also very very important.  Incorrectly spined arrows will show more of an issue with BH's....

[JKEEN33]

I would shoot at more than just 20 yards also. A shop tuning a bow usually just gets you in the ballpark. The further you shoot the more you are going to see how far off the bow is. Use your field tips from 20 out to 60. Once they are on then start tuning the broadheads.

[DoubleJ]

Right now, it's at 67lbs and arrow spine is .400 on 26" shafts.  Broadheads are dead on from 10 yards to 50 yards.  With points, they don't wobble in the air, just spin.  With the BH, they wobble and the ones that hit the target often hit at an angle

[coachcw]

Start by shooting it through paper , you need to be the one aswell to be sure its not a grip or punch thing , at 67 lbs and 28 draw you would have to be shooting a real light arrow to not have enough spine , so my guess is tune , also a four fletch blazer vane should stear any broad head out there, good luck .

[NWWABOWHNTR]

I would shoot at more than just 20 yards also. A shop tuning a bow usually just gets you in the ballpark. The further you shoot the more you are going to see how far off the bow is. Use your field tips from 20 out to 60. Once they are on then start tuning the broadheads.

I agree but first he should try bareshafting at 20... just to make sure the arrows are correct for his bow.... need to eliminate the arrow kick before you try any more distance. 

[pianoman9701]

Do you have overdraw and if so, how many inches? With no overdraw, 380-420 is correct spine for a 26" arrow at 67 lbs draw. You're right in the ballpark. Have you let someone watch your form? Have you paper-tuned?

[BOWHUNTER45]

All the broadheads you have named are JUNK  Buy some WASP and join the real killers  OL Cant wait to see what this brings 

[D-Rock425]

Its a tuning problem not a broadhead problem.

[KillBilly]

Right now, it's at 67lbs and arrow spine is .400 on 26" shafts.  Broadheads are dead on from 10 yards to 50 yards.  With points, they don't wobble in the air, just spin.  With the BH, they wobble and the ones that hit the target often hit at an angle

I believe that at 67 lbs. a 340 spine is better suited for  a 26-29 inch shaft.

[KillBilly]

All the broadheads you have named are JUNK  Buy some WASP and join the real killers  OL Cant wait to see what this brings 

Buy a can of Wasp Spray when you go to the store....

[BOWHUNTER45]

Its a tuning problem not a broadhead problem.

Geeeeeez man thats all you want to say ...thats boring 

[BOWHUNTER45]

All the broadheads you have named are JUNK  Buy some WASP and join the real killers  OL Cant wait to see what this brings 

Buy a can of Wasp Spray when you go to the store....

[D-Rock425]

I would say more about your wasp but you're a lost cause. 

[JLS]

All the broadheads you are using are good heads and should tune.

What kind of fletching?  Offset, helical, straight?  A straight fletch won't stabilize broadheads nearly as well and could contribute to your problem.

I think you are a little light on the spine, but bareshaft to check.

Check for fletching contact with lipstick or some foot spray. 

Have someone else shoot your bow to see if it is you.

[BULLBLASTER]

To use those arrows I would back the boundage down to around 58-60 and shoot. 100 grain heads. Still tuning to do but should get you some consistency.

[christopheri]

You are under spined. Use a stiffer shaft and slick trick broadheads your arrows will fly true.

[sirmissalot]

I am also curious what type of fletchings you're using. By the sounds of it I don't think you are under spined, I am shooting a very similar setup, 28 in. draw with 400 spine arrows. What arrows are you shooting?

[DoubleJ]

All the broadheads you have named are JUNK  Buy some WASP and join the real killers  OL Cant wait to see what this brings 

I knew this was coming 

[DoubleJ]

NAP quickfletch Twisters.  Never had a problem with them before but now I do

[sirmissalot]

Do you have any blazers to try? If not I'm in shelton I can give you some, easy test to see if they fix the problem.

[BowBender87]

Go to a 4 fletch 340 spine with a G5 Montec.....or just try the G5 montec first.  Then post pictures of your kill 

[DoubleJ]

Do they make 4 fletch quickfletches?  I don't know how to fletch

[DoubleJ]

Before anyone asks, arrows are 352gn un-tipped with the quickfletches on.

[JLS]

Using a different broadhead will be a waste of money.

For the price of the NAPs you can probably buy an Arizona EZ Fletch and do your own.  If I can do it, you can.  Superglue, beer, and some directions off the internet.

Are the quickfletches helical or straight?  You don't need four vanes, but it won't hurt.  Just depends on if you can still get vane clearance with four.  Three 4" vanes with a decent offset and helical will stabilize any of those broadheads just fine.

First thing you should do is bareshaft to check spine, then check for vane contact, then have a buddy shoot your bow.

You'll get it figured out.

[BowBender87]

I'm not sure if a 4 vane quickfletch is available.  Your arrows fly straight with field tips and its when you throw on a broadhead when you get the bad arrow flight.  I've had a similar problem as well.  I'd make sure every thing is aligned properly as far as the arrow rest goes.  If you dont have the tools do check this take it to a shop and have them check it.  Look at your knock point too.  Checking for fletch clearance is also important.  However if it clears with a field tip it should clear with a broadhead.  Im not an expert but it seems like some bow/arrow/broadhead combos just dont like eachother.  Broadheads and arrows are expensive so one doesnt want to waste alot of money on trying to see what may or may not work.  Maybe borrow a few friends arrows or broadheads and do a little mix and matching.  Hellrazors look like the montec...but they are not the same.

[JLS]

Fletching contact will still occur with FP, but it might not be visible.  I can take a poorly tuned bow, or one with vane contact and get it to shoot FP accurately.  Put on BH, and now it's a different story.

I guess we should have asked, do you know how to tune your bow for BH flight?

[D-Rock425]

Bring me your bow arrows and broadheads and ill fix you up in a jiffy

[BOWHUNTER45]

o.k I have been watching these guys shoot Inter locks on T.v seem to be a good solid broadhead ... So since I love Interlock bullets by hornaday the interlock broadhead has to be deadly too !!! but SERIOUSLY ....You know what I am going to say 

[D-Rock425]

For a second I thought you where coming to your senses wishful thinking on my part.

[sirmissalot]

I can let you try some of my arrows, I have both 340 and 400 so it will put the spine issue to rest. I shoot G5 montecs in 100 grain, I've never got muzzy's to fly right but I have had luck with the magnus stingers.

[Button Nubbs]

BROADHEAD TUNE!

[BOWHUNTER45]

BROADHEAD TUNE!

[sakoshooter]

OK, I'm on my 5th set of broadheads and none of them are flying right.  What else could be the problem?  My field points are dead on.  I spin test every arrow after putting on a BH and they are good.  I've tried Muzzy 3 blade 100 gn and 125gn, Magnus stingers 100gn and 125gn, and NAP Hellrazor 100gn.

What the hell?  I'm not made of money and can't keep going through brand after brand.  There has to be something else going on.

Shooting an Archery Research AR-34 set at 28" draw.  Have had it set from 40lbs all the way up to 67lbs.  Everytime I change a draw weight (due to shoulder injury, I've had to go from heavy to lighter), I've had it tuned.  I'd blame the arrows except, like I said, field points hit within an inch or 2 at 20 yards.  BH go low/right, low/left, high/center, completely missing the target, and all points in between.

Hey Double J, Check out this link: http://archeryhistory.com/archerytalk/The_Nuts&Bolts_of_Archery.pdf
Go to Chapter 6, Shot Tuning. After a quick paper tune, go to Walk Back Tuning. Your field point arrows will fly better plus your broadhead arrows will fly pretty darn close to your field points. Hope it helps ol buddy.

[DoubleJ]

Using a different broadhead will be a waste of money.

For the price of the NAPs you can probably buy an Arizona EZ Fletch and do your own.  If I can do it, you can.  Superglue, beer, and some directions off the internet.

Are the quickfletches helical or straight?  You don't need four vanes, but it won't hurt.  Just depends on if you can still get vane clearance with four.  Three 4" vanes with a decent offset and helical will stabilize any of those broadheads just fine.

First thing you should do is bareshaft to check spine, then check for vane contact, then have a buddy shoot your bow.

You'll get it figured out.

Slight helical.  Not much, just enough to notice.  And I have a Hostage rest that I LOVE LOVE LOVE.  Only 3 gaps on it.

[DoubleJ]

Right now, it's at 67lbs and arrow spine is .400 on 26" shafts.  Broadheads are dead on from 10 yards to 50 yards.  With points, they don't wobble in the air, just spin.  With the BH, they wobble and the ones that hit the target often hit at an angle

I believe that at 67 lbs. a 340 spine is better suited for  a 26-29 inch shaft.

I've been using the Wolverine Hunter 60/70 from Wal Mart.  Never had this issue in the past.  In fact, I loved them last year and earlier this year.  Using the same ones from last year.

[JLS]

Were you able to tune broadheads last year?

Do you know how to tune for broadheads?

Have you had someone watch your form?

I'm thinking a form issue that might be exacerbated by slightly weak spine and not much helical.

[mallard79]

I had a hostage rest that came with my bow.......field points shot great.......broadheads flew like crap.....with the slight helical try turning the nock slightly clockwise so the cock vane sits at about 11oclock. It was the only thing that helped cure the vane clearance issue I was having.......that is until I got a QUAD drop away rest. I liked the original hostage so much originally that I upgraded to the hostage pro. Good rests but a pain to tune if using any helical. Also check to see that your brushes arent too worn. The bottom brush can wear out pretty quickly.

Some great advice and offers on here, you'll get it figured out. If you were closer I would offer to help figure it out. Good luck.

[bowkid]

Sounds like you need to tune the b/h to the vains on the arrow, just look it up on the net, worked for me.

[BULLBLASTER]

Sounds like you need to tune the b/h to the vains on the arrow, just look it up on the net, worked for me.

Aligning broadhead blades to vanes on an arrow does absolutely nothing to affect arrow flight... it does help them fit in the quiver better though.

[DoubleJ]

Sounds like you need to tune the b/h to the vains on the arrow, just look it up on the net, worked for me.

Already done.  Did not help. 

[huntingfamily]

gold tip 22 series shafts and you wont have any back bone issues. i have shot them through 3 different bows and i havent had  any issues from field points to broadheads .some folks say im shooting logs but i have never shot a deer or elk and not passed through the animal.

[ashersdad]

I did not read every post I am not sure if this was brought up but it sounds like u need to index. sounds like your broad head and fletching are fighting each other. line the blades and fletchings up i bet it flys stright.

[luckyman]

Right now, it's at 67lbs and arrow spine is .400 on 26" shafts.  Broadheads are dead on from 10 yards to 50 yards.  With points, they don't wobble in the air, just spin.  With the BH, they wobble and the ones that hit the target often hit at an angle

I believe that at 67 lbs. a 340 spine is better suited for  a 26-29 inch shaft.

I had the same issue. I was shooting 400 @ 65lb's and field point shoot well but broadhead were anywhere but on target.
It wasn't a tuning issue with the bow, just to weak spine.
I went to  340's and bingo! Dead on.

[DoubleJ]

Right now, it's at 67lbs and arrow spine is .400 on 26" shafts.  Broadheads are dead on from 10 yards to 50 yards.  With points, they don't wobble in the air, just spin.  With the BH, they wobble and the ones that hit the target often hit at an angle

I believe that at 67 lbs. a 340 spine is better suited for  a 26-29 inch shaft.

I had the same issue. I was shooting 400 @ 65lb's and field point shoot well but broadhead were anywhere but on target.
It wasn't a tuning issue with the bow, just to weak spine.
I went to  340's and bingo! Dead on.

After talking with about 3 people on PM, I've come to the conclusion that this is probably it.

[KillBilly]

FYI
An arrow's spine deflection is the arrow's measured resistance to bending.  Basically ... an arrow's spine rating tells you how stiff the arrow is.  As you may know, arrows should neither be too limber or too stiff.  For proper safety and best performance, the arrow spine must be matched to the output of the bow.  Arrows which are too stiff or too limber will not fly well and will degrade the accuracy of your bow.  Arrows which are dramatically underspined (way too limber) can even present a failure hazard.  So selecting the proper arrow spine is very important. 

According to the modern standards (ASTM F2031-05) an arrow's official spine deflection is measured by hanging a 1.94 lb. weight in the center of a 28" suspended section of the arrow shaft (not to be confused with the old AMO standard of 2 lb. and 26").  The actual distance the 1.94 lb. weight causes the shaft to sag down is the arrow's actual spine deflection.  For example, if a 1.94 lb. weight causes the center of a 28" arrow to sag down 1/2 inch (.500").  Then the arrow's spine deflection would be .500".  Stiffer arrows will, of course, sag less.  More limber arrows will sag more.  So the stiffer the arrow is, the LOWER its spine deflection measurement will be.  The more limber an arrow is, the HIGHER its spine deflection measurement will be.

[h20hunter]

There goes another "know it all" spouting stats and figures...........

KillBilly......perfect explanation and probably the most cleary put. I learned something new...thanks for posting it.

[KillBilly]

There goes another "know it all" spouting stats and figures...........

KillBilly......perfect explanation and probably the most cleary put. I learned something new...thanks for posting it.

   My Pleasure