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Author Topic: Broadheads  (Read 23403 times)

Offline Alpinegus

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Broadheads
« on: April 24, 2012, 08:45:15 PM »
Tired of arrows not grouping. Shoot decent groups with fields tips.
Looking for suggestions on 125 gran broad heads, with replaceable blades.
Any suggestions?
 :archery_smiley:

Offline dreamunelk

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #1 on: April 24, 2012, 09:05:30 PM »
Check your tuning with broadheads.  Also many may argue this but sometimes tuning the arrow works.  This means check your FOC and arrow weight.  Depending on how far you are shooting you should be shooting tight groups if everything is tuned correct.  Of course none of the above applies if your form is bad so check that too.  I am mostly a trad shooter but, have a compound also.  It like a heavier arrow.  Think momentum not speed!  The best option is somewhere in the middle.  :twocents:

Offline dreamunelk

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #2 on: April 24, 2012, 09:08:16 PM »
Oh yeah,  Most of the broadheads should shoot fine.  Arrow dynamically most are so close as it just comes down to preference. I have been shooting Thunderheads for it seems like forever.  Never had an issue killing elk.  All about shot placement.

Offline mallard79

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #3 on: April 24, 2012, 09:38:23 PM »
If your bow is tuned correctly most broadheads shod shoot fine. Remember also that broadheads will accentuate any problem you may have in your tuning and/or your technique. Bare shaft paper tune then walk back tune it. This has worked good for me with the few bows that I have tuned.

Offline Annette

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #4 on: April 24, 2012, 09:55:26 PM »
Wish all the broadheads did fly well but many don't . I shoot the 125 Magness Stingers and they fly just great.
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Offline jechicdr

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #5 on: April 24, 2012, 10:44:28 PM »
Good form and proper tune are the most important factors in getting broadheads to group well.  This involves optimizing arrow and bow performance as well as lots of practice.  If you practice with your field tips, practice to 80 yards.  Errors in form will show themselves at that distance.

Bigger surface area blades with blade extending to tip (cut on contact) are going to accentuate tuning and form issues, but you get big holes and lots of penetration, and subsequently better blood trails.  Trochar tips with typical triangular replacement blades are going to improve flight performance, but decreased penetration over the cut on contact.  Any modifications to the broadhead blades that decreases surface area will make flight more similar to field tips.

If you are in tune and your form is good, you should be able to shoot any broadhead accurately.  Since none of us shoot perfectly, the broadhead groups will always be bigger than field tip groups.  The worse you shoot, the shorter you should limit yourself on actual shot.

Offline carpsniperg2

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #6 on: April 24, 2012, 11:03:11 PM »
I am running the ultimate steel broadheads this year. They have been shooting like darts and really working well.
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Offline Button Nubbs

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #7 on: April 25, 2012, 12:01:06 PM »
Google broadhead tuning.
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Online pianoman9701

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #8 on: April 25, 2012, 12:04:55 PM »
There's another thread on this and i posted some YouTube videos. 125 grain broadheads can be tuned to hit exactly the same point as the field tips.
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Offline Button Nubbs

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #9 on: April 26, 2012, 09:05:12 AM »
100 grainers can also. Once you broadhead tune you will be amazed at the performance of your bow. Do a search on archerytalk for "broadhead tuning day" there is a great tutorial there.
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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #10 on: April 26, 2012, 09:07:07 AM »
I mis-spoke. Broadheads can be tuned to hit in exactly the same place as an identically weighted field point.
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Offline et1702

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #11 on: April 26, 2012, 09:37:06 AM »

Go to a two-blade cut on contact BH and make sure your shooting correct spine shaft.  FOC is VERY important too.  Anything 12% to 20% FOC should shoot great.  I shoot 150gr two-blade, single-bevel BH's and my FOC is 19.5%  I also shoot a 29.5"shaft that is 300 spine @ 70lbs & 31" draw.  Note: I tried 340 spine before 300 spine arrows, and they just wouldn't fly correctly w/BHs.  With the 300 spine, I have same POI as my field points and with the extra FOC, they shoot like darts!  The extra FOC will allow the arrow to stabilize faster off the bow (i.e., less archer's Paradox). 

My guess is you are shooting a shaft that is too weak and the flex in the shaft (archers paradox) as the arrow is released is more apparent with BH's attached.  As someone else mentioned, paper tune first.  If you can produce bullet holes (up close and then take a few steps back & repeat), the spine is OK and you have it tuned up.  If you are seeing tears and can't get rid of them by adjusting arrow rest and/or nock point, spine is probably too weak.

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Offline Alpinegus

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #12 on: April 26, 2012, 10:29:44 AM »
Thanks all for your input. In will be checking out the broadhead tuning, as there must be more to it than I thought.

Offline BOWHUNTER45

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #13 on: April 26, 2012, 07:16:48 PM »
first throw the 125 gr in the GARRRRABAGE  :dunno: and get some 100 gr wasp boss .... :yeah: ALL THIS SHOULD GET GOOD NOW  :chuckle: :chuckle: :chuckle: 8)

Offline DIYARCHERYJUNKIE

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Re: Broadheads
« Reply #14 on: April 26, 2012, 07:25:37 PM »
100 grain slick tricks shoot feild point accurate with no tuning.  They're 10 dollars a price but worth the consistent flight patter you get.

 


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