Accurate sights

[jbeaumont21]

Hey all,

I'm looking for tips or advice on good muzzle loader sights for my knight disc extreme. I am a little frustrated with the accuracy of the standard sights that come on the gun and the williams peep sight I bought recently doesn't seem much better. I recently upgraded to KDE thinking it would improve my accuracy but I have much better grouping at 100 yrds with my old Hawkins iron sights 

After surfing the web and exploring my options I can't seem to find anything on the market that will fit what I am looking for and I can't afford to keep trying out the different makes.   At this point I am tempted to go to a gun smith and see if they can manufacture something that will narrow the sight field giving me better accuracy at 100 yrds.

I think one of the issues with the KDE standard sights is that the front fiber optic sight is way too huge.  With that said, does anyone know if the williams or any of the other types have a smaller fiber optic sight?  The second issue is that there is so much play in the standard sight that its difficult to know when you are perfectly centered.  I bought the peep sight thinking that would help but in my opinion its even worse. 

I would like to see a peep sight made that has cross hairs like a scope or something.  Or at the least a standard sight that is tight with no wiggle room when looking down the barrel through the rear and front sights. 

Anyway, I'm done griping.  Does anyone else have my same frustrations?  I am open to any suggestions.

Thanks!

[Sabotloader]

Are you sure it is the sights?  It really could be the way the barreled action fits into the stock.  Often this is a bigger problem than te sights.

Here is a piece I wrote awhile back see if any of this applys...

Checking the Fit of Knight stock


Rob, relieving the stickiness of that should be a really easy fix....

I wrote this up for a guy on Hunting Net the other day - i will repost it here. Look through it and see if it makes sense to you. I firmly believe the sticky stock will affect your accuracy...

Quote:
Can i get a little info on making sure i don't have any stock to barrel issues? I have seen info on tv about how a free floating barrel helps and heard of different procedures of seating the barrel. I will be putting a new stock on my gun very soon (broke the original one), and don't want to have issues there.

I can share some information with you for sure... One thing to remember 'floating' a barrel is not the best for accuracy it is the ‘cheapest’ so that is why you see many companies floating barrels. Companies can not afford to spend the time (money) bedding a barrel to the stock properly so the best thing is to 'float' them. With a wood stock the temperature of the barrel on the wood will make the POI change unless they barrel is bedded in glass or some such feature. In a composite stock if the barrel were bedded into the barrel channel correctly the heat would not be a problem but the flexion of the forearm of the inexpensive stock create a POI shift - so the answer 'float' the barrel.

In your case... since I think you said you have a Knight and if you are getting a Knight composite stock you might not have any of these problems. When I put a barreled action in a Knight stock I set the action in the stock and start the lug screw in. Tighten it with the Allen wrench until it starts to pull the action down. Then stand the gun vertically with the recoil pad on the floor. Gently, and honestly i am not that gentle, tap the gun on the floor to assure that the recoil lug is all the way back in the pocket. Then tighten the lug screw up snugly to hold it all in place. Forgot to say make sure the ram rod is not in place.

When you have the lug screw in tight place the gun in a horizontal position and squeeze the nose of the forearm and the barrel together as tight as you can. If there is no movement – you’re done the barrel is seated on and in the barrel channel. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test. If the test is the same you’re done... go shoot it and give it a check for accuracy.

If during the squeeze test (ram rod removed) the barrel moves down into the stock or the stock moves up to the barrel... release the grip and note if the barrel moves (on its own) back to the original location. Everything should be good - the barrel is floating. Next repeat the test again noting where the barrel returns to. At this time grip the barrel and the forearm of the stock and pull them apart easily. If you feel the barrel stick at some point then you have a problem. If the barrel appears to lift slightly but when you release it - it returns to the original location and you feel no points of stickiness - you are good. Put the ram rod in and repeat the test.

During the squeeze testing if you felt some stickiness in the spring of the floating barrel you will then to do some very light sanding in the barrel channel to relieve the tight spot. You might be able to locate the tight spot by running a dollar bill under the barrel and between the stock to locate the tight spot. Do not sand any more than you need, in fact in my little world the thickness of a single dollar bill is the max thickness the barrel should be off the stock. I normal use a strip of white computer paper for this test it is thinner than a dollar bill - heck it might be worth more than the dollar bill also!!!

Hope this might help you... when you get your new stock and if I can help give a shout....

mike

I am headed out to do some trap shooting this morning I will check back in this afternoon to see if you have any questions.... try to find a round dowel approximately the same diameter as the wall on the barrel channel...

]

[kerrdog]

I knew a guy who had the exact same problem.  It turns out he just couldn't shoot.

[dupedc]

Have you looked at the Truglo Muzzle -Brite? It's a rear ghost ring and a globe front sight. You line up the ghost ring and 3 horizontal dots and your good.  Model # TG958G.

[shoot-em-dead]

I have the same problem but with the muzzle loader all my shots are under 50 yds. I am pretty sure that I could get the gun to shoot better if I sat down and spent the time to shoot all the possible loads with all the possible charges. At least that is the way I was told to find accuracy with a muzzy. No two guns (even if they are the same make and model) will shoot the same.

[flinter]

 I shoot traditional guns with German silver front blades. The German silver blade is very good in low light and it comes in a couple of thickness's for old eyes or young eyes.They are not fuzzy like fiber optics, allowing you to see your sights very well and IMO shoot better groups. Fiber optics are fine for elk accuracy but there are better sights for accurate shooting. If your are interested, check out Track of the Wolf web site.