S&W model 36

[Nibornos]

I just received a Model 36, from what I can tell 1966. It has never been fired. Should I store this away and keep it un-fired? Or is it ok to occasionally use?

I dont plan on ever selling it, but I would like to keep its value high.

Thanks 

[h20hunter]

Ok to use? Hold it up to the screen so I can see it. I would have a qualified gun smith check it out for micro cracks or other age related concers. I would keep it though....could make a great piece to display.

[Huntbear]

IF it has never been fired, keep it that way.  Unfired in new condition will be worth a lot more than fired and almost new...  Do you have the box, paperwork, etc??? all adds value..

Also, if never fired, it would be safe to shoot in my opinion, as long as it is cleaned and lubricated properly, and proper ammo is used.

[CP]

A gun that can’t be fired is worthless IMO.  It might as well be a statue or a painting on the wall.

It’s a high quality S&W so unless it has been damaged it is safe to shoot.  I’d check the cylinder play, timing and bore if it were mine, then if it checked out I’d go shoot it. 


Cylinder play
1) With the gun UNLOADED (check for yourself!), close the action.
2) Thumb the hammer back, and while pulling the trigger, gently lower the hammer all the way down while keeping the trigger back - and KEEP holding the trigger once the hammer is down. (You've now put the gun in "full lockup" - keep it there for this and most other tests.)
3) With the trigger still back all the way, check for cylinder wiggle. Front/back is particularly undesirable; a bit of side to side is OK but it's a bad thing if you can wiggle it one way, let go, and then spin it the other way a fraction of an inch and it stays there too. At the very least, it should "want" to stop in just one place (later, we'll see if that place is any good). The ultimate is a "welded to the frame" feeling.
 
Cylinder gap
4) Still holding the trigger at full lockup, look sideways through the barrel/cylinder gap. If you can get a credit card in there, that ain't good...velocity drops rapidly as the gap increases. Too tight isn't good either, because burnt powder crud will "fill the gap" and start making the cylinder spin funky. My personal .38snubbie is set at .002, usually considered the minimum...after about 40 shots at the range, I have to give the front of the cylinder a quick wipe so it spins free again. I consider that a reasonable tradeoff for the increased velocity because in a real fight, I ain't gonna crank 40 rounds out of a 5-shot snub .
If you're eyeballing it, you'll have to hold it up sideways against an overhead light source.
SAFETY WARNING: This step in particular is where you MUST watch your muzzle direction. Look, part of what's happening here is that you're convincing the seller you know your poop . It helps the haggling process. If you do anything unsafe, that impression comes completely unglued.
 
Timing
5) You really, REALLY want an unloaded gun for this one. This is where the light comes in. With the gun STILL held in full lockup, trigger back after lowering the hammer by thumb, you want to shine a light right into the area at the rear of the cylinder near the firing pin. You then look down the barrel . You're looking to make sure the cylinder bore lines up with the barrel. Check every cylinder - that means putting the gun in full lockup for each cylinder before lighting it up.
You're looking for the cylinder and barrel holes to line up perfectly, it's easy to eyeball if there's even a faint light source at the very rear of both bores. And with no rounds present, it's generally easy to get some light in past where the rims would be.

[FC]

Ok to use? Hold it up to the screen so I can see it. I would have a qualified gun smith check it out for micro cracks or other age related concers. I would keep it though....could make a great piece to display.

Micro cracks? Even in 1966 they didn't make guns out of petrified wood! lol! I too would say that it would be as safe to shoot as the day it was made but that it would decrease the value of it if that is a concern.

[h20hunter]

Never heard of it either until I talked to a gunsmith. Had an old revolver that I was trying to find some information on. He suggested without use it could develop "micro cracks" over time. I don't know a lick about metalurgy (spell?) but sounded plausible to me? Maybe he was full of it. Got me?

[Blackjaw]

If you don't plan on selling it, get it checked out (if you odn't feel comfortable telling whether it is safe to shoot) and shoot it.

[FC]

Never heard of it either until I talked to a gunsmith. Had an old revolver that I was trying to find some information on. He suggested without use it could develop "micro cracks" over time. I don't know a lick about metalurgy (spell?) but sounded plausible to me? Maybe he was full of it. Got me?

I think he was pulling your leg.  Think about it this way, if a 50 year old gun could develop cracks from aging that would make it unsafe to shoot, what about all the 50+ year old ammo (surplus) that folks (including me) shoot?

[h20hunter]

Good point.

[Nibornos]

Its not that im worried about using it. It is nice and tight, looks good. I just wonder if its a gun that should be kept in pristine condition.

I dont have the box, but he thinks he has it somewhere in his house.

[FC]

We aren't exactly talking about a $10,000 gun here or anything, how much additional value for an unfired Model 36? $200?

[Nibornos]

Thats what I didnt know. I have no idea the value. Or if the value goes way down if its used, but still in good condition.

[FC]

Thats what I didnt know. I have no idea the value. Or if the value goes way down if its used, but still in good condition.

http://www.gunsamerica.com/944964511/Guns/Pistols/Smith-Wesson-Revolvers/Pocket-Pistols/NIB_UNFIRED_SMITH_WESSON_MODEL_36_CHIEFS_SPECIAL_38_MANF_1966.htm

I would shoot the hell out of it.

[Nibornos]

thank you