Homebrew Trailcameras

[Bones]

Baseballstud20,  I have used some of the older cameras, but I am not going to pay $100 to $150 for lower resolution camera that is 4 or 5 years old. These are better cameras.

Rackattack, You can run a locking Python cable through the eye bolts and around the tree

I get single strength glass scraps free at our local glass shop. That is what I use. The lens on my case extension is larger than the 1 1/4" lens for sale at yeti and other websites
  The aluminum angle is about 1/16" thick. It comes in 5 or 6 foot lengths for about $6.00. I will have this already for those coming on the 24th.
   Bones

[Bones]

I make my own templates for the board out of clear plastic.

Fred, That's funny! Maybe you can tell us some of your bear hunting stories while we build cameras. I remember one you told 8 or 9 tears ago. I think you were on a log and the bear was seven yards away. I remember it was funny but I don't remember the details.
Bones

[Machias]

Not sure if I can keep all the lies straight. 

[BaseballStud20]

Hey Bones...are parts from the W series cameras interchangable with eachother? Like...could I use the parts from a W55 to repair a W80?

[Bones]

 No,  The 55 and 80 are much different cameras. Most parts on the 80 and 90 are interchangeable, except for the main board and lens assembly.  I will show you how to take the camera apart to make repairs on the 24th.
Bones

[Craig]

Scored a couple good deals on ebay tonight.

Sony W80  $55.01
Sony W90  $43.33
Batt and Charger  ( will work tith both cameras ) $26.99

Total  $125.33

I don't think thats to bad for two cameras. I wish I could make the trip over to the build party. I will need to try this by myself.

Anyone from Olympia going over?

[gkowen]

Craig,

I am from Rochester and I just finished camoflauging my case.  I need it to dry and then a bit of paint and my camera will be done.  I might be able to help if you need help.  Bones has helped me alot and I'll be glad to share what I know.  I will take some photos of my camera tomorrow or the next day.

[Bones]

gkowen, That is great news. I am anxious to see pictures of your camera. The next step is to it out in the field. I hope to be able to help Gramps build one of his Wednesday.
Bones

[Craig]

gkowen

That would be great. I am trying to get all the parts together. The part I'm not sure about is the souldering part. I have no have never done tried it and don't want to screw it up.

I would love to see pictures when your done.

[gkowen]

I had mine all together today and was taking pics of people as they walked by my desk at work. I know it works.  I did some things a bit different than you I am sure but thats ok.  I added a standoff on the outside of the case that I epoxied to the lens extension. I just wanted a bit more strength in that part. Also just to be different I mounted the camera upside down.  I can get to the power switch that way. I also am using the 4 AA adapter from yeticam with a switch.  I will take some pics soon.  Oh and I used liquid nails for my texturing.  Now to find some flat paints. Here's a couple pics. I had some flat green paint I painted the inside of the pvc adapter to minimize and reflections from the white plastic. I also just have packing tape over the holes inside to make sure the inside is clean.

[Bones]

  I can't wait to see your night pictures. We put the switch on the bottom to protect it from the weather, but I am sure is is okay where you put it. I am sure there will be more variations as more build these. The way I do it is not the only way.
Bones

[Bones]

I am reposting the link to the instructions on the Pixcontroller Website.. I have done a bunch of these cameras since I posted that info. Here are a few updates that will help make it easier.
 After the case is drilled for the lens and flash, position the PVC fitting over the lens opening, and place one of the flat areas at 12:00 O'clock. Mark the 12:00 O'clock with a sharpie. You need to sand the corners off of the fitting at 11:00 and 1:00. The top part of the fitting will be round. Lay the fitting on a scrap of glass, and mark it with a sharpie. What you want to do is cut a small half moon out of the bottom of the glass. After cutting the glass, check the fit. You want as small of a gap as possible. It is pretty easy to get a good fit.   Mount the camera in the case, power it up and close the case. Measure how far the camera lens extends out of the case. Also measure how far out of the case the larger diameter of the telescoping lens comes out of the case. You want to cut the PVC fitting about 1/16" longer than the long measurement. Place the fitting back on the case. You can see where the end of the fitting will block the flash. You want to sand the fitting so it has a taper out toward the end from 10:00 to 2:00 O'clock. Don't sand the fitting too thin because you will be gooping the lens to the end of the fitting. The larger diameter barrel comes out of the case about 1/4". You can thin the top part of the fitting in about 3/8". Power the camera up and place the fitting on the case Slide it down until it contacts the lens, then raise it about 1/16". The lower you can get the fitting the better. After  you like the way you have it, mark the spot. Now put goop on the case and the fitting. After a few minutes add more goop around the fitting. The flash lens is gooped to the outside of the lid. The lens needs to overlap the lid about 1/4" on all three sides. Mark the glass that needs to be cut away. Then put goop on the case and the part of the lens that overlaps the case. Also put goop on the edge of the half moon cut and the PVC fitting, Press the lens in place, and add goop to the three edges that mate with the case. The seal between the lens and fitting will be reinforced with Bondo later. Hold a piece of glass over the end of the fitting. Trace around it with a sharpie. Make a mark at 12:00 o'clock because the lens is not perfectly round. Cut away as much glass as possible with a glass cutter. Then use a small pair of wire cutters to nip away the remaining glass that needs to be removed. The glass cannot be above the fitting from 3:00 to 9:00 o'clock. It does not matter on the rest of the lens because it will be covered with Bondo. But when the bondo is added, you can only put a thin smooth coat over the top part of the lens. The rest of the case will be made to look like rough tree bark. The Yeti Board is 1 1/2" by 3 1/2" Make a template out of clear plastic. Drill the four 1/8" mounting holes in the template. Then mark the center of the motion sensor with a sharpie. The board will be mounted in the main case. Make sure the board is not upside down. The motion sensor will be on the bottom. Open the case and lay the template under the aluminum angle. Center the board, and make sure the thumbscrew will not hit the board. Drill a 1/16" pilot hole through the template to mark the center of the Fresnel lens opening. Now drill a 1" hole. After drilling this hole, lay the Yeti board in the main case at the approximate location. Close the case and look through the 1" hole and move the board until it is square with the case, and the motion sensor is centered in the 1" hole. Now open the case and mark the mounting hole locations. Now drill 4 1/8" holes I use nylon spacers or bushings I get at the lumberyard.(Lumbermens has them). They come on various lengths, and they are for 6x32 screws. Start off with a half inch and 4- 6x32 screws  1 1/4" long. Mount the board and tighten the screws. Close the case to get a measurement from the motion sensor to the inside of the lid. I stand a cotton swab on the sensor, and make a mark flush with the outside of the lid. The lid is 1/8" thick The focal length for the fresnel lense is 5/8". Now you can calculate the stand off length needed to obtain this. I will know that length soon. I cut a 1/4" ring from a 1" pvc coupling. I goop this to the outside of the lid to serve as a form for the Bondo. When you goop this ring, center it on the motion sensor, even if the 1" hole is not perfectly centered on the sensor. After the goop sets, you can clean up inside this ring with a Dremmel.
  In the bottom left corner of the case you need to drill a 3/4" hole for the external power switch. There is barely room for this hole, and it has to be cleaned up with a round file to get the switch into the hole.
   Liquid nails is often used by others on the Homebrew websites for the 3-D camo.  I hate using that stuff. It is messy and it takes about 36 hours to set up so you can finish and paint the case. When using Bondo or Bondoglass, the entire project takes about an hour from start to finish. And it is set hard as a rock and ready to paint at the end of that hour.
Bones

There is a picture showing the solder connections on this link

http://www.pixcontroller.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3266

[gkowen]

Here is some pics of my camera. I still haven't painted it or put in the glass lenses. I will do that after painting.  Any questions, ask away. The one thing I did wrong was the screw eyes are in the middle and the cable would be over the flash but I have a fix in mind.  I took some flash pics with it tonight in the dog pen but I forgot the cable to download them. Will post those tomorrow.  I get motion sensing out to about 45 feet without having adjusted the adjustment at all. The flash seems useable out to about 20 feet and I am working on an add on external flash.

[bow4elk]

Now I'm getting itchy!!  Nice work!  I've got two W80's and all the stuff to get started on the first one.  Still not fully clear on the step by step camera hack so I'm hoping to see a nice build-along from you guys heading east.

[gkowen]

Hi bow4elk,

I am just in Rochester.  My camera was a W80 too.  I just painted the case and didn't do very well. It is mostly gray.   If you run into trouble, I can try to help.

Greg