This article is in the new Hunt Washington Magazine.. If you look at the top of the page on the right you will find a clickable link to the
H-W Magazine or click this link to gain access.
http://www.magcloud.com/browse/issue/478415Todd_ID did a really great job collecting a variety of information getting it in print and then getting it published...
I thought I would drop this article in here directly for your viewing and discussions... This was the basics of the article, Tood dis a much better job with the art work in the article but I still think you will get the jist of it...
The old Debate…
Musket Caps or #11 caps…
I am not sure it will ever be solved as to which one might be the better choice. When you are having success with one, why mess with what works?
A few years ago I was working informally with Knight to build a better Western Kit for the Knight DISC Extreme. As it turns out, I really had no interest in the development with the use of Musket Caps. My concern was with #11 caps, and I should say the use of #11
Mag caps or the RWS Dynamit Nobel 1075+ caps specifically.
After I had completed my suggested changes to the Western Kit and Knight started producing the revised bolt, I got a note from Knight suggesting that a lot of folks in the Pacific Northwest were not interested in the #11 cap and wanted to use only Musket Caps. I, personally, was a set back at the popularity of the Musket Cap in the Northwest. I had tried Musket caps for many years believing what I was told “use Musket Caps they are hotter”. I did believe that and tried to use them faithfully for a while.
The first suggestion that I have heard is that the Musket Cap burns hotter than a #11 cap! And that is correct it does burn hotter than a #11 cap. But, when compared to a #11
Magnum Cap, RWS 1075+, or the new Remington Caps the temperatures are nearly the same. The truth of the matter is that a Musket cap can burn longer in duration than do the #11
Magcaps, but not hotter.
The next suggestion that I have heard is the Musket nipple provides more volume to the powder from the cap. On the surface that may appear to be correct. When you compare the nipple stack on Musket Nipple to the stack on a #11 nipple the Musket cap can certainly hold more volume. The reality comes when you turn the nipples over and look at the bottom of the nipple. Check the flash hole or the Touch Hole, they both allow about the same amount of gas to the powder in a given time period. This picture is an attempt to show what I have explained.
I would suggest to you if your powder load is dry and under the nipple, there really is not an advantage to the either cap, they both will ignite the powder equally well. However, if the powder is damp or moist the Musket Cap may give you a
hang-fire at best because it burns longer and might dry enough powder to ignite the load. But again if you have done your part and kept the powder dry – there really should not be an advantage to both caps and remember I am talking about the hotter #11 caps, not the regular or re-enactment #11’s.
Another reason I have heard often for the fondness of a Musket Cap versus a #11 Mag is that the Musket Cap is easier to handle and load with your fingers. OK! You got me on that one… That is certainly the truth. My only thought is that I do not want to ‘handle’ either one of them. They make tools just for that project. The cappers are more efficient in foul weather – gloved hands in placing the caps on the nipple post
squarely and tight.
Since I have brought up ‘Cappers’ I would like to share my thoughts on cappers also. Brass Cappers are for me the best way to go. They are usually more compact than plastic ones, offer a good gripping surface and allow easy application of the cap on to the nipple post even in a timely manner and in the worst weather. This picture shows an example of two cappers that I use.
While talking about cappers, there is one problem with the installation of Musket Caps. Often the Musket Cap needs to be pinched a bit to get them to install snuggly on the post. In this case the capper might be a detriment.
This leads to another advantage of the #11 Mag Cap. The cap with its closed convoluted sides is built to be pushed on the post and stretched to fit the post tightly. If you can find the right Nipple with the post built to cause the cap to stretch you may be in the better of two worlds.
It is my belief that the cap should stick to the nipple post, stretch the convolution of the cap to almost flatten them on the post. If you accomplish this you will get the added benefits of mounting the cap correctly, it will not fall off while hunting at all and the bigger benefit with the proper fit water or moisture will not get under the cap walls and contaminate the cap. It becomes nearly water proof and for us hunting in the great Northwest this is no small matter. I have used and practiced these procedures for several years now and have never had a water fouled cap.
Both of these advantageous are not likely to happen with a Musket Cap. The slits up the walls of the cap make it very difficult for it to become water proof. Plus I believe you lose the proper fit on the post. Squeezing/distorting the Musket Cap to fit the post also could provide a water channel for water or moisture to the ignition material in the head of the cap.
It took me awhile to find what I consider the correct nipple for my applications. Most nipple manufactures provide a nipple stack that will allow you to easily remove a #11 or even Musket Cap because it is more convenient for the hunter shooter to remove a non-used cap. After some searching I found these nipples that give me exactly what I am looking for.
The nipple fits so tight you do have to use a something like a knife blade to peal the cap off the post. After removal that cap will never be used hunt with again. I do save them and use them for range sessions.
