Rust advice..

[saylean]

Got a 30/30 winchester that used to be in prime shape. Earlier this year, I had to carry it through the brush to help my lil bro find his bear. Found it, gutted it, etc, but then had to carry out the gun (with some residual blood on my hands). The gun was dirty but I left it for a few days before I cleaned it, which is normally not like me, just  how it worked out.

Bear blood is not nice to metal. Anyway....

I have been keeping it as clean as possible, but since then, it seems to be very receptable to rust. I have one spot, in particular, that likes to return with rust, even though I have cleaned it, oiled it, etc....it is a very small spot, but it is persistant and seems to not want to go away.

Any tricks to kill this crap off? I know this is probably a newbie question, but I would have thought cleaning it and oiling it (lightly), while storing it so air can move around it would have done the trick...

Advice welcome.

[WDFW-SUX]

fine grit steel wool and and then re bluing stuff when you are finished

[saylean]

Roger that. Thanks passion.

[DeKuma]

I use a very fine metal polish called Heavy Metal Blue.  Rub it into the area several times and it should help if it is not too deep.  It also puts a coating that should prevent it from happening again.  Also, anything with light silicone or teflon has helped keep it away on my old Remington 600.

[Huntbear]

If it is surface rust, then take one of your brass, and crush the end the bullet came out of, flat with a vise, pliers, whatever, then use that end to scrape the rust off, then use some gun cleaner to remove the residual brass, then oil it very well. 

The brass will not scrape off the blue or scratch the metal.

[saylean]

thanks boys. appreciate it.

[Bscman]

Pre 1983 pennies...
They're pure copper, and it doesn't damage steel or remove bluing. You'll have a nice sharp edge to scrap the rust out with, then use your normal cleaner to remove the copper residual.

Steel wool works great, but MAKE SURE you get AT LEAST #000 (I'd got with the finest you can find--ACE or LOWES should have it). Also, make sure you OIL THE PAD before you start rubbing on your blued steel. This will drive oil into the pores, and add lubrication so it doesn't wear through your bluing. Also, be careful around sharp edges.

I wouldn't use cold-blue unless it's in a hard-to-notice area.
Otherwise, you'll likely end up with a splotch that doesn't match the rest of the bluing. Cold bluing isn't nearly as durable, either. If do need to cover up, use Oxpho Blue or SUPER Blue...nothing else will get very dark.
Apply with a toothpick for small spots, and use a hair dryer to pre-heat the metal for better results.

When done, treat with a quality oil/protectant...and/or a good silicone cloth.

[smdave]

Many years hunting ducks and geese out in the bay saltwater, we always used wool socks and wd-40, it kept the 870 loking nice all the time the rust would never come back untill the next time out in the salt water.

Dave

[saylean]

Thanks again for all the input guys...I appreciate all the different takes on it.

[KillBilly]

Blood is one of the worst things to get on a gun surface. If it has set in, you may never get it to stay gone. A friend of mine had to have his gun totally stripped buffed and re-blued before the blood damage  was comletely gone.  Good luck

[saylean]

Thanks Billy...it is something I have found out the hard way.

[Gobble]

Spray some WD-40 on it and let it penetrate the gun for awhile. I have done this a few times as has my dad and it seems to work well. Try that before you go reblueing it. WD-40 is a penetrating oil that has properties that break down rust.


Give it a try. 

[mikeal1234]

heat the gun up to atleast 120 degrees and then scrape it with a peice of brass while still hot oil well with a good quenching oil or high speed cutting oil the heating will open the pores and will cause the oil to soak in deep.

[mikeal1234]

also see seasoning a muzzle loader

[Coasthunterjay]

ok, i have really only found one type of cleaner that helps with this and wd-40 isnt it....granted wd-40 is a good lubricater, but working and being a aviation machinery technician and working around metal and compostites exclusively i have learned that there are hundreds of different lubricants and cleaners that have a range of different purposes......

My recommendation would be to get some birchwood casey baricade(use to be cald sheath take alongs) but it comes in aerosol and in little take along wipes.....i go through alot of these living on the water......and you can see the rust and everything else that is nasty that is inbedded in your rifles pores....

after you have soaked it good with that and have cleaned what you can off of it, then use a basic lubricant if you want like wd-40 or remoil, or whatever to coat your barrel....but it has protective lubricating properties also.

but the barricade wipes are a lifesaver in my opinion.....its and all in one wipe.....

http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/index.html