Been interested in getting into Traditional bow hunting...

[bucklucky]

I feel almost like I am cheating with my compound  This topic was spured from another thread . I have been wanting to get into the more traditional end of it for about 4 years now, I would like to kill a bull with a long bow and would also like to get into the traditional smoke pole thing also, I'm talking kill a bull with a flint lock also. There is nothing wrong with compounds but I just think that technology has really taken the sport over . Its still hard with the current technology but I just want to get back to the basics and see how it all got started in the first place. Instinctive shooting, cedar arrows, thats what they are made of isnt it? I know one thing, it does require alot of practice to get accurate enough to hunt with a traditional bow. Where should I begin. Will shooting a compoung mess up shooting a traditional bow with no sights? Am I retarded for even thinking of trying a traditional bow when I'm not even  perfect shooting a compound? What do you traditional bow guys think. What steps need to be taken to get into this kind of hunting? Any advise would be great!

[MagKarl]

I'm right there with you.  I've only killed 2 elk and a deer with my compound so I've hardly got that mastered but I'm seriously interested in going traditional.  I don't really have a good reason for it other than I want to.  I started muzzleloading last year with a kit gun that I built, really makes shooting fun for me.   

[bowhuntin]

I don't think you should have any problem making the transition from compound to traditional. I did it the other way around. I started hunting with a recurve then switched to a compound, so I could shoot out to forty yards instead of twenty to twenty-five. I guess the first thing you want to do is decide whether you want a tab or a glove to shoot with. Then make sure you get yourself the correctly spined arrows. You will want the heavy arrows, so if you are shooting 60#, then you will want an arrow spined 60-65#. That is it as far as equipment besides the quiver. You can get a selway quiver for around eighty or ninety dollars I believe. Shooting the bow can be different too, being that you don't have to shoot it like a compound where everything is straight up and down. People will "cant" the bow, which is basically angling the bow to the side. This is how I prefer to shoot with traditional because the site picture worked better for me, you just need to experiment if you have never shot a longbow or recurve before to see what you prefer. There are some different techniques people use to shoot also, such as doing it instinctively or GAP shooting. Traditional is much simpler but tons of fun. I am not sure about the longbow but with the recurve that I shot you can twist the string so that you could increase your brace height for more accuracy or let it be for a little more speed. I would start reading as much as possible about this type of hunting and learn as much as you can or go to the leatherwall and ask some questions from those guys. I am not sure what else to add other a couple links to some websites that have the stuff you will need to get started or you can try and find what you need at cabelas or sportsmans warehouse. Kustom King Archery is a good one and so is 3riversarchery. Here are the links... http://www.kustom-king.com/ http://www.3riversarchery.com

[bucklucky]

Thanks for the info. Things I didnt even think of. What no release 

[Bscman]

Go for it!
I started with a recurve when I was a little puke. It made the jump to compounds so VERY simple. I recently decided to take the sport back up, and purchased an older (MINT) ben pearson recurve, 45#.

A few things to think about...
Form is much more critical with traditional gear. If you start out with too heavy of a bow, you'll never master your form because you'll be fighting the bow too much. You're best off starting light. Most people will recommend ~30-35# for a shooter new to traditional gear. If you're pulling 70lbs with your compound, you might be able to push 45# but I wouldn't go any higher...your form will suffer and you'll learn too many bad habits. I was shooting a Heritage Kudu last night at 55lbs, bare fingers, and I found my form was terrible after ~10 shots. You won't learn much if your practice sessions are that short!

Also, longer is better. A longer bow will be smoother and won't "stack" as much. Stacking is when you are putting much stress on the limbs and the draw weight picks up very quickly (common with short bows, or LONG draw lengths).
Longer will be a little more forgiving as well.

That being said, find a NICE used recurve or long bow in the 35# range and practice, practice, practice. One you master your form and shooting style, then you can upgrade.

Buy a glove and a tab--shoot a lot with both.
Most tab shooters will tell you the release is a bit more consistent, but I choose a glove (or bare fingers) every time. I don't find tabs to be very comfortable.

Also, play around with everything--split finger, three under, etc. Play around with anchor points. Play around with shooting off the shelf, vs a rest or some sort (stick on, plunger, etc).

Instinctive or "GAP" shooting (closely related) come with practice.
You use the tip of the arrow and judge how much to hold under/over. Eventually it comes second nature.
At 10yds, I have to hold ~2ft under the target (using the tip of my arrow as a "sight"). Much less under at 20yds, and OVER the target at long distances. With time and practice, you not longer thing...just do.

If you like to cheat, you can "face walk" or "string walk" to help you sight in.
What I mean is, you can put two knocks on your string and shoot 3-fingers UNDER the arrow. The further below the arrow you grab the string, the higher the rear of the arrow sits--which means it'll be spot on for a closer range. As distance increases, you walk your fingers higher up the string (closer to the arrow).
Face walking employs the same concept, you just change your anchor point.

And don't let anyone guilt you into anything.
You can still shoot trad with a release (it's just goofy to watch!). Sights and fancy rests are found occasionally as well, along with stabilizers. I prefer a bare bow, shooting off the shelf, with no sights.

As for arrows...
I'd start with carbons of the proper spine. Somewhere around 8-10grains per lb of draw weight is a good starting point. Fletches are better than vanes in most situations.
Cedar arrows are a PITA to be completely honest. Rarely is a complete set spined properly--I know some guys buy 100 shafts only to end up with 15-18 that are truly consistent. They aren't as durable, either....so learn with some good carbons until you know you can hit your mark and go from there.

Last but not least, when shopping for a bow...
Make sure the laminates aren't separating. Make sure the limbs do not appear to "twist." Check to insure (when strung) that the string goes down the center of the limbs--some cheapear take-down recurves aren't machined well, and will never shoot well. Check for cracks and splits (sometimes very fine) on everything. Last but not least, be aware that some OLDER bows may break if they've not been strung/shot for a long period of time. String the carefully and draw them slowly the first few times!

Best of luck!

[Ray]

Link up with a traditional bowyer. Shoot a bunch of his or her bows. Get a feel for what you like. Everyone likes something different. I'm not into recurves and prefer the longbows. I'd agree with the thoughts that the longer the bow the better it seems to usually shoot. I'd recommend buying your bow from someone who is handcrafting them as opposed to a factory made bow. They usually shoot better.  You can make your own arrows or buy them. The important part is getting a bow that fits you and that you like.

Tab, glove etc. I don't use them. Shooting a lot you can develop callouses on your finger tips soon enough. Everyone is different though..

Both my bows are at 55 lbs. That seems to be a good weight for me. Each person is different and it goes back to my advice to shooting several bows to see what fits you best. I shoot cedar shafts as they seem to perform just fine for me.

[Ray]

I forgot to mention that I would loan you one of my bows if you wanted to try it out. It might not fit you though.. I'm 5'9" and about 195-200 lbs.

[STIKNSTRINGBOW]

I live down in Chehalis, If you want to come down and try shooting a recurve I have several (20+). PM me if interested. I dropped the "training wheels" several years ago and want to warn you it gets addictive.

[bucklucky]

Thank you guys for the info. I may take some of you up on your offers too. I have alot to learn!!

[bowsandhose]

good time to switch since you need a new bow 

[STIKNSTRINGBOW]

That's one of the weird things about compounds, you need a new one every couple years. I hunt with 35+ year old bows and my pride and joy is a Nels Grumley made in the early '30s!

[bowsandhose]

That's one of the weird things about compounds, you need a new one every couple years. I hunt with 35+ year old bows and my pride and joy is a Nels Grumley made in the early '30s!

Charlie's bow was brand new until he ran it over 
hey Charlie how much for your bow? 

[bucklucky]

That's one of the weird things about compounds, you need a new one every couple years. I hunt with 35+ year old bows and my pride and joy is a Nels Grumley made in the early '30s!

Charlie's bow was brand new until he ran it over 
hey Charlie how much for your bow? 

 

[spin05]

You need to hook up with these guys... http://www.tbwonline.org  They put on a rendez. that is 2nd to none.Every 3 years they host a shoot for the 4 western states.I was a member for 5 years.Then my son and i started racing motocross so something had to go....   I miss those shoots .Lots of bows to shoot and buy there.

[cohoho]

Got a guy from Idaho that I meet on a hunt in AK, that makes some of the sweetest shooting Take Down bows around.  If you need his name give me a holler.