Truck hunt (prices vs mileage)

[FC]

I am curious as to where these rusted out vehicles were located, do you know? The reason I ask is that as a proffessional mechanic I never saw a rusted out frame on any vehicle that didn't come from the east coast, all east coast vehicles have this issue.

[DRobnsn]

I would never buy a truck that has a lift kit or oversize tires....That mod just makes things wear out.

If you plan on using it as a truck, don't buy a Toyota until you've done your homework or called me for actual experience.
(dozens of TSB's((they're not recalls!)) on things that shouldn't go wrong on a truck)

I would buy an F150 or Dodge 5.7l.
The Toyotas will hold their value longer, but their performance is not up to the other two.
Let the Toyota lovers attack!

What do you mean by using it as a truck? What things go wrong on Toyota trucks that shouldn't go wrong on a truck?

I use my Tacoma to tow my 3,000lbs worth of boat, trailer and gear very regularly, I usually get about 16mpg doing it too!

Some Tacomas do have problems with their rear springs, its a fact but it's also a relatively cheap fix. You can certainly use it as a talking point when negotiating sale price if it has the problem. The main issues are bushings squeaking and springs not being as strong as they should, both are readily fixable (at the same time) for under $500.

In the 2.5 years I've owned my Tacoma I've maintained it, that is all.

Little over a year on with mine and only regular maintenance. Yes the rear springs suck, so what else is junk on them?

While this is the Tacoma's first rust-related recall, it's a continuation of a much bigger problem that Toyota had already attempted to fix. In 2008, Toyota was forced to extend corrosion warranties and even repurchase Tacoma pickups from the 1995-2000 and 2001-2004 model years -- a span covering roughly 800,000 vehicles -- because entire frames were rotting out. After customer outrage, Toyota backed the affected Tacoma vehicles with new 15-year/unlimited-mi​le corrosion warranties.

Frame rust is an issue on the 2006+ models.
 
A new set of springs cost $500 and is a real joy to change out....ask me how I know.

Hmm never heard of the rust before thanks for the info, mine is a 2012 so maybe I won't have to worry

My plan with the springs is to find a donor set off of something like many have done on Tacomaworld and see how that works out. My main leaf is still fine so I just can't see paying big money for spring steel when its readily available at the scrap yard. Obviously I'll pick out a good set not something that was ruined in a crash or rusty. I will let you know how it works out when I get time. It might be a while though mine doesn't hit the bump stops unless its loaded down and I hit a big enough bump, and its hunting season and all   

[thinkingman]

I would never buy a truck that has a lift kit or oversize tires....That mod just makes things wear out.

If you plan on using it as a truck, don't buy a Toyota until you've done your homework or called me for actual experience.
(dozens of TSB's((they're not recalls!)) on things that shouldn't go wrong on a truck)

I would buy an F150 or Dodge 5.7l.
The Toyotas will hold their value longer, but their performance is not up to the other two.
Let the Toyota lovers attack!

What do you mean by using it as a truck? What things go wrong on Toyota trucks that shouldn't go wrong on a truck?

I use my Tacoma to tow my 3,000lbs worth of boat, trailer and gear very regularly, I usually get about 16mpg doing it too!

Some Tacomas do have problems with their rear springs, its a fact but it's also a relatively cheap fix. You can certainly use it as a talking point when negotiating sale price if it has the problem. The main issues are bushings squeaking and springs not being as strong as they should, both are readily fixable (at the same time) for under $500.

In the 2.5 years I've owned my Tacoma I've maintained it, that is all.

Little over a year on with mine and only regular maintenance. Yes the rear springs suck, so what else is junk on them?

While this is the Tacoma's first rust-related recall, it's a continuation of a much bigger problem that Toyota had already attempted to fix. In 2008, Toyota was forced to extend corrosion warranties and even repurchase Tacoma pickups from the 1995-2000 and 2001-2004 model years -- a span covering roughly 800,000 vehicles -- because entire frames were rotting out. After customer outrage, Toyota backed the affected Tacoma vehicles with new 15-year/unlimited-mi​le corrosion warranties.

Frame rust is an issue on the 2006+ models.
 
A new set of springs cost $500 and is a real joy to change out....ask me how I know.

Hmm never heard of the rust before thanks for the info, mine is a 2012 so maybe I won't have to worry

My plan with the springs is to find a donor set off of something like many have done on Tacomaworld and see how that works out. My main leaf is still fine so I just can't see paying big money for spring steel when its readily available at the scrap yard. Obviously I'll pick out a good set not something that was ruined in a crash or rusty. I will let you know how it works out when I get time. It might be a while though mine doesn't hit the bump stops unless its loaded down and I hit a big enough bump, and its hunting season and all   

Did you do a spacer lift?

I have your donor springs in my garage.
3rd leaf from OME Dakars I installed.

[DRobnsn]

Yeah the rear of the truck is 1.5" spacer.  Working on a PM for you.

[coastalyeti]

I bought my 2004 Tacoma double-cab new.i have changed the oil religiously, also the brakes and tires and battery. I had the 90,000 mile service, once. NOTHING else has been done, or needed to be.
I drive off road several thousand miles a year, but, to Get someplace, not going off jumps  like an off road dirt-biker. It's got 329,480 miles on it, and runs like it is STILL brand new. 
This is my first import truck, but Not my last (if it Ever dies!).

[Heredoggydoggy]

The only advice I can give is if you have a choice between low-miles rarely driven, and high miles driven daily, go with the high miles one.  Things go bad on a vehicle that sits faster than on a driven vehicle. 

[DRobnsn]

The only advice I can give is if you have a choice between low-miles rarely driven, and high miles driven daily, go with the high miles one.  Things go bad on a vehicle that sits faster than on a driven vehicle. 

I see your point and I would add that overly high miles is not good either. Also if the vehicle was used for the things we in the hunting community use them for and the choice was a high mile or low miler, I'd go with the low mile rig. Lots of off road miles are pretty hard on parts. Unless its a Toyota, then.... either way is fine 

You are right though things fall apart when left sitting. Its a delicate balance I suppose. Another thing to think about when your buying a rig and don't buy them often is a good list of things to check on top of the carfax type stuff. Quick google searches will give you good lengthy lists of things you may not have thought to look for especially if you single out the particular vehicle your looking for and find a good forum with a purchase check list with the vehicles weaknesses listed.