Ft-Lbs vs FPS

[Antlershed]

Is there a general rule of thumb as far as how many ft-lbs you want to take an animal down? Obviously you will want more for a moose than you need for a deer, and Elk would probably fall in the middle somewhere. Also, which is more important between the energy it is carrying and how fast its traveling, or how do they work together? I've been reading so many ballistic tables my head is about to explode.

[Sagedawg]

 They say 1000ft-lbs is the minium for deer size animals. I like a bullet moving at a speed that will dump all of its enegry within the animal. But thats just my



  Sage

[addicted]

Over here the minimum requirements for Hochwild(high game) is 2000 joules at 100  meters. so they are kinda basing it off of foot pounds for the requirements along with a minimum bullet diameter. 

just like anything else thise is argueable because a 243 doesnt meet the legal requirements for a gams buck but it would probably be a great caliber for them. 

[Rick]

A lot of people say you need 1000ft-lbs for Deer and 2000 for Elk.

The first Elk I ever killed was with my 30-30 when I was 10. The 150gr load I was using has just over 1000ft-lbs of energy at 100 yds. I guess nobody told Mr. Spike Elk because he feel over dead after I shot him.

I think people read too much into energy. You put the bullet into the vitals and the animal is gonna die.

My uncle killed a ton of Elk with a 25-06 and 120gr bullets. Not many "experts" recommend a 25-06 for Elk,but the proof was in my Uncles freezer every year.

[addicted]

I think people read too much into energy. You put the bullet into the vitals and the animal is gonna die.



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[demontang]

Horandy has a program to give you an idea what is needed. I think bullet construction has a big part to do with it though.

http://www.hornady.com/ballistics/hits_calculator.php

[KillBilly]

Is there a general rule of thumb as far as how many ft-lbs you want to take an animal down? Obviously you will want more for a moose than you need for a deer, and Elk would probably fall in the middle somewhere. Also, which is more important between the energy it is carrying and how fast its traveling, or how do they work together? I've been reading so many ballistic tables my head is about to explode.

it is a combination of bullet weight and speed, example: 180 gr. bullet @ 3000 fps = 3597 ft. lbs. of energy at the muzzle.

[Antlershed]

Horandy has a program to give you an idea what is needed. I think bullet construction has a big part to do with it though.

http://www.hornady.com/ballistics/hits_calculator.php

That thing said .270 shooting a 140gr bullet is suitable for Moose at 100 yards.  I realize shot placement matters, but I don't think I would be chasing Moose with a .270.

What I'm trying to do is decide on a caliber (I thought I had it figured out, but I keep searching). It is fairly realistic that I will draw Elk and Deer permits within the next couple of years, and with a lot of luck Moose as well. I don't know that buying two rifles is in the budget over the next two years (I don't really plan on buying cheap rifles). If it was, I would buy a .25/06 or a .270 now and if I drew Moose, I would buy a BIG gun. I was starting to look at the .300win-mag as an all purpose gun, but I don't know that it packs the punch for that OIL Moose tag. I also don't want to buy a super MAG caliber for one hunt.  :dunno:The only rifle I currently own is a .243 and I have been borrowing my Grandpa's .270, but he wants to start hunting with us again next year, so I gotta give it back.

[Sagedawg]

 It is nice to have a few guns ,but if thats not in the cards get you a 30/06. It will do it all with the different bullets that are available. Not trying to discourage you, but that caliber will do it all. Just my 



  Sage

[thinkingman]

cartridge and ballistics will only get you to the skin, the construction of the bullet is critical once you get there.
A solid bullet at moderate speed is deadlier on heavy animals than a superfast explosive bullet.
$.02

[demontang]

I bought a .338 win for a do all gun. You can shot 180gr bullets for deer all the way up to a 300gr bullet for what ever. The kick seem to be less then a 300 win and a .338 is one of the best selling med bore cals. Shot placement and the bullet have a lot to do with a dead animal or just a hurt one.

[KillBilly]

cartridge and ballistics will only get you to the skin, the construction of the bullet is critical once you get there.
A solid bullet at moderate speed is deadlier on heavy animals than a superfast explosive bullet.
$.02

Right on thinkingman...Stopping power is related to the physical properties of the bullet and the effects it has on its target. Stopping is usually caused not by the force of the bullet  but by the damaging effects of the bullet which are typically a loss of blood, and with it, blood pressure. More immediate effects can result when a bullet damages the central nervous system such as the spine or brain.

[Antlershed]

Which type of bullets generally hold together the best?

[high country]

I know this much, I smashed a .257 100gr tsx clear through a rosie at 400yds on my range finder. that elk died absolutly as fast as any i have killed with my 300rum, win and 338win. I doubt I will shoot my 300 rum again. my rifle only spits those pills at 3600fps

[Huntbear]

If a magnum caliber is not your cup of tea, then go with a 35 Whelen.  Or how about the newer 338 federal.  At 250 yds. and less, it will take all 3.  

I am one of those that love the .338 win mag.  You can hunt anything and everything, except small game, and you have a .243 for that.

The Federal loads with 210 gr. Partitions will put down any elk or moose or bear.  I would even use it for deer, if I needed to.