Practicing with broadheads

[BOWHUNTER45]

Shoot them all at least once to make sure they all fly the same ...anything is possible even with new ones out of the pack ..can not say I ever had any problem with a Wasp ....screw them in backwards --upside down and they still fly the same  Also I line broadheads up with the vanes when putting them together ...again some will say Nah...do not need to do that but they fly so much truer 

[whackmaster]

I shoot all 3 dozen then replace the blade's as
I load my Quiver 

[RadSav]

I sight in with three broadheads at three dots.  Once the sights are perfect I use the same three broadheads and verify accuracy of three more arrows.  If they get difficult to remove from the target I replace the blades with fresh sharp ones.  Repeat until all arrows have been proven.  No need to prove every identical broadhead. After that I just take heads out of a box, put blades in, add collar, screw into shaft and off I go!  Good and verified to 110 yards

[jburkett]

I bought some replacement blades and use these to sight in with and verify that each new broad head fly's true. After they have proven themselves good I replace the blades with the new ones that came in the package with them.  I've been using the same blades for this purpose for 5-6 years and now they are so dull I couldn't cut butter with them, but they fly just like new blades. I've never had " practice blades" fly like hunting blades

[spin05]

I shoot muzzy so i use the practice blades. Seem to shoot the same as the sharp blades. As far as shooting them all. im not accurate of enough shooter unless im real close to notice that one or two broadheads are flying a inch or 2 left or right or whatever. So theres no point

[Little Fish]

I shoot every broadhead/arrow combination that I take into the field and rank them 1-5 in terms of accuracy. Once they are dialed in I put them in the my quiver and don't shoot them until an opportunity presents itself. Sometimes I can't get a combination to shoot well no matter what I do. At 20 yards it doesn't matter as much, but at 50 yards the bad combinations can be off 6 inches or more.

[Wood]

I shoot them all at least once. This is one of the reasons I like a good stout 2 blade. They come out of the target easier and are easy to sharpen. All arrows are numbered according to straightness and weight is written on one of the vanes.

[Fullabull]

I shoot montecs so I have the practice heads. First I spin test every arrow with a hunting BH. If any don't spin well I use the squaring tool unit the arrow spins true. If I can't get it to spin true it becomes a problem a practice arrow only. I then shoot the true arrows with practice heads on and tune my bow to make sure my practice points hit the same place my practice BH's hit. I have never had an issue with the real BH's not hitting where my practice ones hit. This process saves my sharp heads for the real deal and saves money in the end.

[sakoshooter]

OK, after reading everyone's post about shooting every broadhead then putting new blades in, I have a question: Most of today's broadheads are machined to very, very tight tolerances. The problems usually arise when we assemble and install them.
What would be the difference between shooting one or two to verify sight in and keeping it as a practice arrow/broadhead AND shooting all of them, then uninstalling them and dissassembling all of them to replace the blades. If we're that uncertain of each broadhead, why take them off the shaft and dissassemble them? How do we know that the newly assembled and newly reinstalled broadheads will fly exactly like they did prior to removal, dissassembly, intallation of new blades and reinstallation?

[RadSav]

OK, after reading everyone's post about shooting every broadhead then putting new blades in, I have a question: Most of today's broadheads are machined to very, very tight tolerances. The problems usually arise when we assemble and install them.
What would be the difference between shooting one or two to verify sight in and keeping it as a practice arrow/broadhead AND shooting all of them, then uninstalling them and dissassembling all of them to replace the blades. If we're that uncertain of each broadhead, why take them off the shaft and dissassemble them? How do we know that the newly assembled and newly reinstalled broadheads will fly exactly like they did prior to removal, dissassembly, intallation of new blades and reinstallation?

   

Now quit trying to use logic Sako.  The internet is no place for that! 

[D-Rock425]

That's why I only use one or two.  I spine check all my shafts square up booth ends then spin the broadhead side on a dial indicator and get them all spinning as true as possible.

[sakoshooter]

OK, after reading everyone's post about shooting every broadhead then putting new blades in, I have a question: Most of today's broadheads are machined to very, very tight tolerances. The problems usually arise when we assemble and install them.
What would be the difference between shooting one or two to verify sight in and keeping it as a practice arrow/broadhead AND shooting all of them, then uninstalling them and dissassembling all of them to replace the blades. If we're that uncertain of each broadhead, why take them off the shaft and dissassemble them? How do we know that the newly assembled and newly reinstalled broadheads will fly exactly like they did prior to removal, dissassembly, intallation of new blades and reinstallation?

   

Now quit trying to use logic Sako.  The internet is no place for that! 

  Sorry Rad. Won't happen again. I promise. 

[Little Fish]

I don't take anything apart or replace any blades after shooting them and dialing them in. A few shots into a broad head target doesn't dull them up very much. If I use them for practice I don't hunt with them since those broad heads dull up over time.