A tire thread

[Boss .300 winmag]

Boss, your humor is a little flat.

Sorry, guess I'll have to be a little more pumped up next time for this thread. 

[pd]

You will lose fuel mileage going from the factory all season tires to any tire I recommend due to weight of tire, tread pattern, and rolling resistance............
For those willing to go to 20 inch rims on their F150's, they 275/65/20 makes a pretty sweet affordable option to get to 34 inches tall.  It also happens to be the stock size for F250 and F350 and Chevy 2500, so there is lots of tire selection to choose from.  And significantly more affordable than buying 35x12.50 on 20's.

Thanks.  Very helpful.

[Kurt_S]

I like the st maxx.  Have a set on my super duty.  Will be getting them again when the current set wear down. No complaints with them.   They do well in the snow.

[Rick]

The load range/ply rating branded on a tire's sidewall identifies how much load the tire is designed to carry at its industry specified pressure. Passenger tires feature named load ranges while light truck tires use load ranges that ascend in alphabetical order (letters further along in the alphabet identify stronger tires that can withstand higher inflation pressures and carry heavier loads). Before load ranges were adopted, ply ratings and/or the actual number of casing plies were used to identify the relative strength with higher numeric ratings or plies identifying tires featuring stronger, heavier duty constructions.

Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire's internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.

Its nice to see someone else understands ply rating.  Unless you're running a bias-ply tire you aren't getting 6,8,or 10 plies. An E rated tire isn't necessarily more puncture resistant than a C or D.

 Every time I buy tires for my truck,I have some yahoo trying to sell me "10 ply tires".  Its frustrating to have to teach the salesman about the product he is trying to sell me.

A lot of guys spend way more than they have to, thinking they're getting something they actually aren't.

[KFhunter]

I've been running Nitto Trail Grapplers for a few years and love them.  The bonus is they area from Discount tire so I don't have to deal with Les Slob.

They sucked on the ice even new, great everywhere else but I thought I could leave them on year round and was left missing my dedicated snows

[bobcat]

Its nice to see someone else understands ply rating.  Unless you're running a bias-ply tire you aren't getting 6,8,or 10 plies. An E rated tire isn't necessarily more puncture resistant than a C or D.

How do you determine puncture resistance then, if you can't go by the Load range rating? I bought Load Range E tires for my half ton truck mainly so I didn't have an issue with rocks puncturing them. And I haven't. No flat tires in the 8 years that I've had my current tires. But you're saying if I got the same tire in a Load Range C it would be just as good?

[Jonathan_S]

Duratracs and never look back.     Best mud terrain for deep snow in my experience

[whacker1]

The load range/ply rating branded on a tire's sidewall identifies how much load the tire is designed to carry at its industry specified pressure. Passenger tires feature named load ranges while light truck tires use load ranges that ascend in alphabetical order (letters further along in the alphabet identify stronger tires that can withstand higher inflation pressures and carry heavier loads). Before load ranges were adopted, ply ratings and/or the actual number of casing plies were used to identify the relative strength with higher numeric ratings or plies identifying tires featuring stronger, heavier duty constructions.

Today's load range/ply ratings do not count the actual number of body ply layers used to make up the tire's internal structure, but indicate an equivalent strength compared to early bias ply tires. Most radial passenger tires have one or two body plies, and light truck tires, even those with heavy-duty ratings (10-, 12- or 14-ply rated), actually have only two or three fabric plies, or one steel body ply.

Its nice to see someone else understands ply rating.  Unless you're running a bias-ply tire you aren't getting 6,8,or 10 plies. An E rated tire isn't necessarily more puncture resistant than a C or D.

 Every time I buy tires for my truck,I have some yahoo trying to sell me "10 ply tires".  Its frustrating to have to teach the salesman about the product he is trying to sell me.

A lot of guys spend way more than they have to, thinking they're getting something they actually aren't.

I completely agree that the load range doesn't guarantee or dictate that it will be any more puncture resistant, but there isn't any published information that would help us determine the information like the old bias ply rating system.  some will give you side wall ply's and some will give you material composition, but for the layman, there isn't much to go on.  I would wager that in almost every case a load range E is more puncture resistant to a rock than a load range c tire.  a nail is a nail and tough to deter a narrow sharp object, but the only ways to offset load rating is to increase the strength of the wall including the sidewall, so it can withstand more airpressure and maintain its integrity.  So P metric is usually designed to run at 35lbs running pressure with a max of 50lbs as a general rule.  Where an load range E will be designed to run at 50-60 pressure with a max of 80lbs.   

If you know something that would give us a better benchmark of puncture resistance on the various brands and styles of tires, I am all ears.  The only additional information I have ever found is the Kevlar good years to increase durability/puncture resistance.  I am all ears 

[Special T]

The reason why a E is more resistant to dammage over a p rated tire has to do with working load. If the working load of the tire is 2k lbs and you work it hard at 2k you are applying 100%all the time. If you go to the E tire it may hold 3.5k lbs but your still working it at 2k. Now its operating at under 60%working capacity.  ANYTIME you operate a tire at less than max capacity you will increase durability and wear. The only structual change that will really get in a tire is once you move up to commercial grade tires that are all steel not fabric with a steel belt.

OEM tires are often the minimum because they want what is as cheep as possible. This has the biggest potential for failure with half ton trucks. Most people overload them which is fine for short slow trips but it has an effect on the tire.
When I moved to 19.5all steel tires for my one ton & gooseneck  almost eliminated my flats and blowouts. I also greatly increased the milage. It comes at a cost but for me its worth it.(mine are work rigs)

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[jdb]

I run HANKOOK DYNA PRO ATM 285x70x17 10 ply bought online from DISCOUNT TIRE online for $825 to my door. Then paid a shop to install them for another $100.

I saw these while getting an alignment. The tire shop was pretty busy so I never got a chance to ask about them. How do they do in the snow/ice?

Not good. I use them in the summer only. I've had 3 sets of these tires and currently run them on my '13 Duramax too. They are great highway tires if you keep them aired up and rotated..

I have run them on my last two rigs and they've done awesome in the show and ice.

[270Shooter]

I will only run load range E tires with 3 ply sidewalls on my truck. Many e rated tires have 2 ply sidewalls and to me it's not worth the risk of getting a flat. My truck had p rated tires when I fort got it and it lasted maybe 20 miles in the wenas before I got a flat. Went down and bought some cooper st maxx and never looked back. Super tough tire for rocks. I now have the cooper stt pro which is basically the same tire with a more agressive tread and sidewall and they have also been flawless on rough rocky roads that I would never even think about taking a p rate tire on.

[whacker1]

I will only run load range E tires with 3 ply sidewalls on my truck. Many e rated tires have 2 ply sidewalls and to me it's not worth the risk of getting a flat. My truck had p rated tires when I fort got it and it lasted maybe 20 miles in the wenas before I got a flat. Went down and bought some cooper st maxx and never looked back. Super tough tire for rocks. I now have the cooper stt pro which is basically the same tire with a more agressive tread and sidewall and they have also been flawless on rough rocky roads that I would never even think about taking a p rate tire on.

How many miles do you have the STT Pro on what pickup?  They are new enough, I don't know many folks that have run them yet over the original STT.

[thinkingman]

I'm not going to mention my experience with Michelin LTX AT2's in P-metric on the nastiest basalt in the state for fear of jinxing myself.
Draw your own conclusion.

[Mossy]

I'm leaning towards the st maxx.

[Fshnpole]

I like my tires as well, I only buy AT tire because, although i like the look of MT I dont like the road noise and short tread life.  Last i checked consumer reports rated the hankook dyna pro as the best buy for an AT tire followed by the cooper discoverer.  I have talked several buddies into buying the hancooks and they all love them.  My dad bought the coopers last month and besides one of the first four he got having a flat spot after it was replaced he likes them but said they grab the ruts a little more than his previous tires. If you decide to go with an AT i would look at the hankooks.
Oh and i forgot to mention i have had the BFGs before and will never buy them again, but like everything there is some room for personal preference.