Hep with buying used Dodge diesel

[LittleJohn]

Hey guys
I'm looking to buy a used Dodge truck.
Diesel, Manual trani
I had a 97 cummings and never should have sold it :{
Any years I should stay away from ??
I'm not a motor head so talk to me like your talking to your mother about vehicles 

Thanks guys 

[NW-GSP]

Do yourself a favor and have a diesel shop take a look at whatever your looking to buy. Well worth the money.

[syoungs]

probably gonna need to post up a year range to get the best answers, but I agree with taking it for a inspection before purchase, can save you thousands.

[jaredwitman]

I will be getting my truck ready to sell soon. PM me if interested. Its a '93 dodge W250 5.9 cummins. low miles... possible what your looking for. It will be a week or so before I list it. I will be regretting this sell the rest of my life too but sometimes duty calls.

[WAPatriot]

Hey guys
I'm looking to buy a used Dodge truck.
Diesel, Manual trani
I had a 97 cummings and never should have sold it :{
Any years I should stay away from ??
I'm not a motor head so talk to me like your talking to your mother about vehicles 

Thanks guys 

Ya join the club 96-98 been looking for a couple of years

[netcoyote]

My daughter will be selling her 2001 2500 long bed, standard cab Ram (manual trans). She just bought a newer 2004 Ram with a quad cab because of a growing family. One thing she learned about buying ANY Dodge diesel....bring lots of money.
PM me if you want details.

[WoodlandShooter]

On the 98.5 to 2002 VP44 trucks, you need to check

Lift Pump Pressure
Look for evidence of a wire tap fueling box by looking for any damage to the insulation on the rear wire in the top of the VP44 FPCM (the box on top of the injection pump)
If it's an auto, it will probably need a tranny.

if it's a 5spd, it may need 5th gear looked at

if it's a 6spd, it might need a clutch

they all will most likely need a track bar and ball joints

[toyman2]

Not sure how new your looking at.
I just purchased a 2011. In 2013 you have to use Urea. Most of the manuals are rated less FT LB or torque for the tranny. Lots changed mid year or year for year on HP and FT LBs. I am not sure but I think in 2007 they changed the cab enough, I have like 8 more inches in the back of my 4 door than my buddy and his 05 4 door.
07.5 was the change between the 5.9 & 6.7, also I think there was  a change for the Auto trannies in that same time frame.

[Eric M]

I'm looking too, although I'm not quite ready to buy. Four of the guys at work own Dodge diesels and here is what I have learned. Don't buy an automatic. Transmission troubles and automatic 4 wheel drives suck in the snow  when driving in the mountains. Seems like pre 2007 is the way to go. Any newer than that and they start having so much fuel economy crap on them and seem tougher to work on. Also the Cummins diesel is great. The issue I hearcomplaints about (besides automatic transmissions) is little cosmetic stuff like panels rattling loose etc. Anyway my  Here's a forum might help-   http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/

[DRobnsn]

Not sure how new your looking at.
I just purchased a 2011. In 2013 you have to use Urea. Most of the manuals are rated less FT LB or torque for the tranny. Lots changed mid year or year for year on HP and FT LBs. I am not sure but I think in 2007 they changed the cab enough, I have like 8 more inches in the back of my 4 door than my buddy and his 05 4 door.
07.5 was the change between the 5.9 & 6.7, also I think there was  a change for the Auto trannies in that same time frame.

2010 was the body style change to a real crew cab for the RAM. 2007.5-2012 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, no urea. 2013+ 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, and urea. 

5.9l cummins auto's are 4 forward speeds while all of the 6.7s use a 6 forward speed auto. The 6 speed is showing to be far superior in stock form, both in drive ability and longevity. 

[jackelope]

Not sure how new your looking at.
I just purchased a 2011. In 2013 you have to use Urea. Most of the manuals are rated less FT LB or torque for the tranny. Lots changed mid year or year for year on HP and FT LBs. I am not sure but I think in 2007 they changed the cab enough, I have like 8 more inches in the back of my 4 door than my buddy and his 05 4 door.
07.5 was the change between the 5.9 & 6.7, also I think there was  a change for the Auto trannies in that same time frame.

2010 was the body style change to a real crew cab for the RAM. 2007.5-2012 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, no urea. 2013+ 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, and urea. 

5.9l cummins auto's are 4 forward speeds while all of the 6.7s use a 6 forward speed auto. The 6 speed is showing to be far superior in stock form, both in drive ability and longevity.

2005.5 or 2007.5 re: the DPF?

I might suggest steering clear of any of the early 6.7L's. I.E. late 2007-2008.

[DRobnsn]

Not sure how new your looking at.
I just purchased a 2011. In 2013 you have to use Urea. Most of the manuals are rated less FT LB or torque for the tranny. Lots changed mid year or year for year on HP and FT LBs. I am not sure but I think in 2007 they changed the cab enough, I have like 8 more inches in the back of my 4 door than my buddy and his 05 4 door.
07.5 was the change between the 5.9 & 6.7, also I think there was  a change for the Auto trannies in that same time frame.

2010 was the body style change to a real crew cab for the RAM. 2007.5-2012 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, no urea. 2013+ 6.7l uses EGR, DPF, and urea. 

5.9l cummins auto's are 4 forward speeds while all of the 6.7s use a 6 forward speed auto. The 6 speed is showing to be far superior in stock form, both in drive ability and longevity.

2005.5 or 2007.5 re: the DPF?

Your quick but not quite quick enough 

[jackelope]

ok, was just checking myself. I thought about it for a few minutes before I decided to ask. I'm only right with this stuff about half the time.
 

[KFhunter]

all of what's said above but want to add

look at the exhaust manifold for an EGT probe, usually a hole drilled just in front of the turbo in the manifold itself and a probe installed.  Does the manifold look reddish and brittle like it's been red hot a few times?  Or dull looking.  Look at enough manifolds you might see some differences and can spot one that been run very hot quite a bit.

While your in there pop the rubber hose off the front of the turbo, the intake boot, and (if engine is cold and off) grab that nut on the turbo and give it a wiggle.  Shouldn't be any play up and down at all.  You might feel a tiny play in and out but if it's wiggling up and town it's a bad turbo just waiting to blow up.  Carry a screw driver with multiple tips in the handle.

next take the oil filler cap off and set it where it won't fall and start the engine, is their white smoke and air blowing out of the oil filler cap hole?  It's got bad rings and excessive blow by and needs rebuilt engine.  There shouldn't be enough air coming out to displace the filler cap if you just gently set it in the hole but don't screw it in, should just rest there vibrating with the engine but not blowing back out.

after you shut off the engine and replace the oil filler cap crawl down under the front bumper and start wiggling steering arms and components, should all feel solid.  Check the u joints in the 4x4, not a deal breaker but you might find some bad U joints while you're under there. 

[jrebel]

I have an 06 manual and it is amazing.  160K and still running strong.  Can't go wrong with 05, 06, 07 (early) vintage.