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I have an 06 manual and it is amazing. 160K and still running strong. Can't go wrong with 05, 06, 07 (early) vintage.
Quote from: jrebel on January 27, 2016, 11:14:25 AMI have an 06 manual and it is amazing. 160K and still running strong. Can't go wrong with 05, 06, 07 (early) vintage. G56?
Ive had 5 dodge cummins 1990 auto and then a bunch of sticks 98 &01 5spped and currently 03&056 speed. The older autos are garbage but I really liked the all mechanical 12 valves. The 24valves were ok. The key to making the tranny last was not to pull in 5th gear. I spun the 5th gear off 3times on the last one. Every 30k. Even welding onto the end of the shaft didnt work. The surging with all the weight is what killed them. I would haul 16k behind the truck for at least 100k miles a year on them rarely disconnecting the trailer. I personally think the 04-early07 are the best vintage with the stick. Im gona keep rebuilding my 2 current ones until its no longer possible.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk
Quote from: Special T on January 27, 2016, 12:44:38 PMIve had 5 dodge cummins 1990 auto and then a bunch of sticks 98 &01 5spped and currently 03&056 speed. The older autos are garbage but I really liked the all mechanical 12 valves. The 24valves were ok. The key to making the tranny last was not to pull in 5th gear. I spun the 5th gear off 3times on the last one. Every 30k. Even welding onto the end of the shaft didnt work. The surging with all the weight is what killed them. I would haul 16k behind the truck for at least 100k miles a year on them rarely disconnecting the trailer. I personally think the 04-early07 are the best vintage with the stick. Im gona keep rebuilding my 2 current ones until its no longer possible.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using TapatalkFairly safe to wager that out of all the people that will read this post, there may be 1, 2 at most, other people who tow like you do. Under the conditions that most use these type trucks, they'll never have that issue.
all of what's said above but want to addlook at the exhaust manifold for an EGT probe, usually a hole drilled just in front of the turbo in the manifold itself and a probe installed. Does the manifold look reddish and brittle like it's been red hot a few times? Or dull looking. Look at enough manifolds you might see some differences and can spot one that been run very hot quite a bit. While your in there pop the rubber hose off the front of the turbo, the intake boot, and (if engine is cold and off) grab that nut on the turbo and give it a wiggle. Shouldn't be any play up and down at all. You might feel a tiny play in and out but if it's wiggling up and town it's a bad turbo just waiting to blow up. Carry a screw driver with multiple tips in the handle. next take the oil filler cap off and set it where it won't fall and start the engine, is their white smoke and air blowing out of the oil filler cap hole? It's got bad rings and excessive blow by and needs rebuilt engine. There shouldn't be enough air coming out to displace the filler cap if you just gently set it in the hole but don't screw it in, should just rest there vibrating with the engine but not blowing back out. after you shut off the engine and replace the oil filler cap crawl down under the front bumper and start wiggling steering arms and components, should all feel solid. Check the u joints in the 4x4, not a deal breaker but you might find some bad U joints while you're under there.
What years did they have issues with cracked blocks. Seems like they were cast in Brazil. And we're cra king by the motor mount.