OK, This one is easy. It has been clearly laid out by BobR. I believe this will work for the Sony w80 or w90 or w200. If you guys want to add any other specifics for certain models go for it, or if I screwed anything up, tell me and I'll change it.
Dave
Parts list from Yeticam.com(1) Black 1040 Pelican case - $16.00
(2) .65 focal fresnel lens - $2.50
(3) Power switch - $2.00 (also available Radio shack, must be on/off switch)
(4) Three wire servo - $6.00
(5) Control board - Horizontal with front mounted controls set up for W35 or W80 (this works for ALL W series cameras. $39.50
(6)Two wire connector for board power ( connects 9 volt to board) $1.00
Shipping - $6.00
Total bill from Yeticam $73.00 [bgcolor=#ff1300](prices as of Jan. 2009)[/bgcolor]
I don't recommend the cameras older than the W80. Starting with the W80, Sony introduced a new image processor. It is faster and conserves battery power. And also the W80 and newer cameras are full 1080 HD ( high definition).
Cameras on ebaySony DSC-W80 7.2 mega pixels about $50 or $60
Sony DSC-W90 8.1 mega pixels about $50 to $75
Sony Dsc- W200 12.1 mega pixels any where from $80 to $130
[bgcolor=#ff1300](these were the prices before there was a mysterious increase in demand for these cameras...
)[/bgcolor]
Necessary tools Drill
Drill bits....1 1/4" spade bit for lens hole, 1" spade bit for PIR sensor hole, 1/4" for camera mounting screw, Alum angle mounting holes and to start the flash opening, 1/16" for pilot (starter) holes, 9/64" for board mounting screws
Soldering iron. I use a 15 watt soldering iron from Radio shack.
$7.95
Glass cutter $3.95
A belt sander and dremmel tool speed things up a bit
Miscellanous HardwareTwo wire connector from Radio Shack. These come in a pack of ten for $1.95.
Velcro tape to hold the battery in the case.
A 1" X 1 1/4" PVC reducer for the case extension for the cameras extending lense. $.79. [bgcolor=#ff1300](I believe this needs to be bigger for the w200)?[/bgcolor]
Scraps of single strength glass- usually free from glass shops
2 1/2 inch piece of 1' X1 " aluminim angle
Two 1/4" x 3/4" bolts with nuts/washers for mounting Alum. angle to case
Two 1/4" x 3/4 eye bolts with nuts/washers
1/4" thumb screw with a nut
4- 6x32 screws and nuts 1 1/4 inch long
4 pieces of plastic tubing 7/8" long for stand offs to mount the board the proper distance from the Fresnel lens. (an old plastic pen cut to 7/8" pieces will work)
Bondo glass....for camo texturing
craft paints...for camo
Krylon clear finish (matte finish) to seal it
Templates If your going to build more than one camera, a template will really speed things up.
(Also from BobR)
Tomorrow, I will post a picture that goes with these instructions. If you can't make a template following these instructions, I suggest you find another hobby.
Bob
I will explain how to make the templates. You can use a piece of 1/4" plywood.
This is cut to fit perfectly in the case lid. The corners are rounded with a sander, and the edges are beveled on both sides. The idea is to get it to lay flat in the lid and where it fits snug and cannot move. Our template is for the Sony W80, W90 and W200. Then we laid out the spacing on the template. On our cameras, the front cover can be removed and this lays flat on the template. We locate the camera a little closer to the hinged side of the lid because we mount the servo on the left end of the camera. We also leave just enough room at the top so you can touch the power and shutter button with your fingertip while the camera is mounted to the lid. After locating the camera case on the template, we trace around the lens and flash openings, In the exact center of the lens opening, we drilled a 1/16" pilot hole. Then we drilled a 1/16" hole at each end of the flash opening.
We use 1"X1" aluminum angle for the camera mounting shelf. We cut a piece of wood that fits perfectly in this angle. This wood has two 1/16" holes drilled in it on one side, and another 1/16" hole drilled through it on the other side. This wood template allows us to drill all of the aluminum angles eacatly the same every time. After drilling the three pilot holes in an aluminum angle, we used a quarter inch bit to drill the top hole where the 1/4" thumb screw connects the camera to the angle. If there is no pilot hole in the angle, it is hard to get a quarter inch bit to startt exactly where you want it to. This is very easy with the pilot hole. We connected the angle to a camera, and then located it on the template. Then we drilled the two 1/16" pilot holes in the template for the angle mounting bolts.
Then we located the Yeti board below the camera where the thumb screw would clear the board 1/4". Then we traced the board and marked the location of the 4 mounting screws on the template. The board we use is the horizontal front mounted controls board. This board is mounted in the case, and the board is reversed when the case is closed. So we used a tape measure to mark the center location of the motion sensor on the template. Then we drilled a 1/16" hole in the template for the four mounting screws. The board must be located in the exact center of the template (left and right). If it is not centered, the location will change when the case is closed. Then we drilled a 1/16" hole at the center location for the motion sensor.
This template is placed in the lid, and seven 1/16" holes are drilled through the lid. One side of the template is marked lid. Then the template is moved to the case, and four more 1/16" holes are drilled for the board mounting screws.
Drilling these eleven locator holes just takes a minute. Then a 3/8" bit is used to drill two 3/8" holes that are later connected with a dremel for the flash opening. A 1-14" bit is used for the lens opening. A 1/4" bit drills the angle mounting bolt holes, and a 1" bit the PIR opening hole. Then a 9/64ths bit drilles the 4 board mounting screw holes in the main case.
All cases came out perfect and exactly the same, and anyone can do this with the template. The 1/16" pilot holes make it easy to start the point of a paddle bit to drill the large holes. These small holes serve the same purpose as marking the location with a center punch.
Bob
Let me know if I missed anything. I want this to be as accurate and helpful as possible.
Dave
