Lost on towing weights and which weight distribution hitch

[Bmcox86]

have a 2010 5.7 TRD. It has a leer topper on it and I plan on buying a camper that has a dry weight of 3144 and a hitch weight of 415. I will have two small kids, myself the wife and a dog in the truck along with extra spare tire, cooler, and other things. I plan on getting a weight distribution hitch along with a sway bar. How do I figure out my hitch weight ? I'm so lost with all the numbers and weights. The truck has the break controller and rear air bags which came with it and I have no idea how to use .
Thanks in advance

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[KFhunter]

that's a lot of words to type 

Might want to spend some time on youtube,  type in your controller and watch some vids.  Same for the hitch and whatnot. 

[Bmcox86]

I have been that's what got me lost, so many different weights

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[jeffro]

First recommendation is to look for the rating sticker on the hitch.
Should have ratings for tongue weight and capacity, for both straight and weight distribution loads.
In a quick search, it looks like you should be good to 10k with distribution hitch.
As long as your not doing mountain passes a lot,  I'd say your good to go.

[baker5150]

http://www.etrailer.com/Weight-Distribution/Reese/RP66075.html

This is what I use. Friction style anti sway bars don't work nearly as well as this system, and they wear out over time.
I hated my friction style system so I tried this an absolutely love it. Weight distribution with no sway. It's prevents sway from beginning instead of stopping it like a friction type. Plus tight turns and backing can be done without disconnection.
My trailer is 10k so you won't need one this big, but I'd get a larger rated system than you need. Than its useable if you ever upgrade
You weight is the bottom of the spectrum, so I'd go with a 10k which is pretty common and readily available.

[highside74]

You won't need any sway bar with a 3500# trailer. Your hitch is plenty beefy. Get the correct ball mount and ball to get it about 18 inches off the ground and in the proper weight range and get any decent weight distribution bars and you will be fine. I pull a 31ft trailer and have never need a sway bar. Make sure your axles and tongue sit level on the trailer and you will track straight without a problem.

[highside74]

https://www.etrailer.com/p-PS49903.html

This is plenty if not a little overkill for your trailer but if you upgrade later it will transfer to a bigger trailer and it's less than $250.00

[baker5150]

You won't need any sway bar with a 3500# trailer. Your hitch is plenty beefy. Get the correct ball mount and ball to get it about 18 inches off the ground and in the proper weight range and get any decent weight distribution bars and you will be fine. I pull a 31ft trailer and have never need a sway bar. Make sure your axles and tongue sit level on the trailer and you will track straight without a problem.

I couldn't disagree more, A light weight trailer in a side wind at 60 mph or more, an anti-sway system is worth every penny. 

18 inches off the ground isn't relative at all,  The trailer needs to be leveled with the tow vehicle for the dist. hitch to work properly and have an even load.
This will change the hitch height for different vehicles.

[fliesitdies]

I have had this conversation a lot towing horse trailers and here is what I tell people is what ever you tow or haul make sure you have enough BRAKES to STOP yes trailer brakes will help and sway bars help if you have a tire blow out. If you have kids in your camper and you are towing anything please make sure you can stop.   Torklift in Kent  can help you with the towing numbers.

Good Luck

Fliesitdies

[kirkl]

If your buying new tell them you want a weight distribution thrown in and they will most likely set it up for you properly.

[Bmcox86]

Thanks for all the feedback, Im currently in Alaska and will be driving to Iowa this June via Alcan, GNP, Yellowstone, Utah Arizona and Colorado so mountain passes won't be able to be avoided and want to get something that will make towing easier and safer. I've towed a 11k boat all around Western Washington for 4 years so towing isn't new to me but towing a camper is

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[Wacenturion]

 Should be a sticker inside of a cabinet that will show the trailer's weight as equipped with the options it has as shipped from the factory. You are obviously going to add additional weight when you load it with items. Typically one can figure 600-1000 lbs of stuff. Irregardless you're going to want to weigh it on a scale to see what your actually towing.

More importantly.......GCVWR.  Here's something I clipped that may be useful.

The GCVWR is defined as the maximum weight of a loaded vehicle and its attached loaded trailer. And like the other weight ratings discussed here, the vehicle’s manufacturer calculates this number. Let’s say a truck’s GCVWR is 15,000 pounds and it has a base curb weight of 6,000 pounds. That means the vehicle can safely handle an extra 9,000 pounds of cargo and trailer weight. However, it doesn’t matter (to a certain point) where that cargo is placed. If a passenger weighing 150 pounds sits inside the truck, that 150 pounds has to be subtracted from the truck’s then-available GCVWR. Owners must still be mindful not to exceed the GVRW with in-vehicle cargo and trailer tongue weight. (More on that below.)
The GCVWR is how automakers list the maximum allowable weight a vehicle can tow. By subtracting a vehicle’s base curb weight from its GCVWR, the automaker determines the available tow rating. Automakers usually publish tow ratings that account for a driver and one passenger, each weighting 150 pounds, and a full tank of fuel. So, if you’re going to tow a trailer that weights exactly what your vehicle is rated to pull, you’d better leave the family and their luggage behind. Continuing with the example, if a truck has a 15,000-pound GCVWR and it weighs 6,000 pounds empty, plus it’s loaded with 4,000 pounds of cargo and passengers in the bed and cab, it can pull a trailer weighing no more than 5,000 pounds.

So after reading the above I will use my example.  I have a 2008 Bigfoot 25B25FB travel trailer which I tow with a 2002 Ford Excursion with a 7.3 diesel. It's rated at 11,000 lbs for max towing. GCVWR is 20,000 and the curb weight is approximately 7600 lbs. Trailer from factory with options is just over 5900 lbs.  Loaded weight is about 6700 so a combined (GCVWR) of just over 14,000 lbs. Lots of margin left before hitting the 20,000 mark, even with another passenger and cargo in Excursion.  Good rule of thumb is having about 20% gap between your allowable CGVWR and your actual CGVWR.  As I mentioned above, I have a 6,000 lb. margin, or roughly 30%. 

Remember the tongue weight goes against the tow vehicle GVWR. 
You also want to have somewhere between 10-15 percent of your trailer weight as your tongue weight.  Tows properly and avoids swaying in the rear.  My loaded weight is 6700 and my tongue weight as measured with a tongue weight scale is right at 660 lbs.  That was measured in my side storage area which isn't exactly level.  I will weigh it on a level paved area before spring use.  I'm sure the tongue weight may go up slightly.  If not I will reposition some weight toward the front to get a minimum of 10%.  Also my propane tanks are not full which will add some weight up front.

I have an Equalizer brand weight distribution hitch.  In my opinion, about as good as it gets as you can really fine tune it.  You can also back up without taking something off.  You can see a close up of part of the hitch in second photo.  Hope that helps some.  Good luck.

[Bmcox86]

Thanks that really helps I need to look up some weights and do some math tonight .

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[Happy Gilmore]

Sway bars and load levelers are great for rigs which are too small for what you are towing. And, if you don't load your trailer so that the weight is properly distributed.

With a proper tow rig and weight distribution all the torsion lifts and friction sway bars are unneeded imo. I quit using them on my last two trailers and never noticed any difference. Except its less work to hook up and unhook.

Air bags will help a lot. My horse trailer weighs more than those things. It pulls straight as an arrow loaded or dry. I use no helpers or sway bars. Having the trailer level on both axles is important. Buy an adjustable hitch to fine tune your leveling. Nose down on the trailer and you may need all the extra junk they sell to make a trailer pull straight.

[Mudman]

With your truck and trailer weight just buy a weight dist. hitch and tow.  Will pull easy and you will be golden.  Not a big deal or complicated problem you face.  Get R done!