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If the drift values are in inches, they look low to me.
Quote from: Bob33 on April 06, 2017, 01:15:19 PMIf the drift values are in inches, they look low to me.Thank you Bob ! You are right, I had selected G7 in the calculator instead of G1. arghhhDoesn't look near as sexy when you put the right numbers in
Here's an image that shows what wind drift looks like in a 10mph crosswind. All calibers/bullets will have a similar curve. http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/243win/ Edit: the chart refers to drift in inches rather than MOA which is what you're using to dial your scope so I believe that would make the curve flatter.
No need to use excel, just play with wind values in your ballistics app.Magnum_Willys - I made some assumptions about your load and environmentals, but this should work as an example of what I'm talking about. I used: .338 300gr SMK @ 2850fps, G7 .3824, 330ft altitude, 50* F, 30.0586 in. HG. Experimenting with wind values, 6 mph wind predicts 1 click (1/4 MOA) out to ~600 yards. Past that you need more clicks, 800 yards needs 9 clicks for example.If all that is correct and proves out in the field, make yourself a chart based on 1 click /100 and 6 mph wind. Then any actual wind calculations are a factor of that value; 9mph wind for example will be 1.5 clicks /100. Hope that helps!
Better have your windage turret marked for the actual zero. Otherwise you won't be able to tell what the "non wind" zero is. My personal preference now is holding off for wind. I was shooting in my first nationals in 2006 and I had the windage built into my sight corrections so I could hold closer to the x ring. The wind was approximately 20 mph and then it reversed. I went to the sighter to see what my new zero was and the combination of the new wind direction and the correction in my scope "blew" the bullet off the target. I had an eventful couple of minutes until the wind came back to the original direction.