For longrange, what standard cartridge in a factory rifle?

[MHWASH]

My reasons for standard cartridges is because most wildcats require a custom barrel. I just want a factory rifle. I know  that a fast twisted .264sux has a better B.C. Than most 270 bullets, but I'm not interested in that.

I know my 300 is best suited for the task, but when hunting along side others, I don't like the idea of shooting a rifle with a break with someone who is not prepared, or willing to wear ear plugs. Especially my kids.

[Magnum_Willys]

Have you tried your 300 without the brake?  The brake is nice for range work and over 600 spotting your shots, but for under 600 screw on the thread protector?  If its a 9# rifle the kick isn't bad unless you are running wood stock with minimal butt pad.  I've hunted with .300 and 338's for 35 years and never felt a need for a brake with them except for extended range work and load development.  If you are carrying a 7# rifle including scope then yea the kick won't be friendly. 

[Curly]

https://journalofmountainhunting.com/2015/06/head-to-head-the-6-5-284-norma-vs-the-300-win-mag/

Another one that might be worth considering..... 6.5x284 Norma.

Can be had in Savage Weather Warrior.

[MHWASH]

Have you tried your 300 without the brake?  The brake is nice for range work and over 600 spotting your shots, but for under 600 screw on the thread protector?  If its a 9# rifle the kick isn't bad unless you are running wood stock with minimal butt pad.  I've hunted with .300 and 338's for 35 years and never felt a need for a brake with them except for extended range work and load development.  If you are carrying a 7# rifle including scope then yea the kick won't be friendly.

I've shot enough 180gr factory rounds out of it to sight it in, so not really a good test. The thread protector is a good sugestion, but I'd just as soon set it up and leave it alone. The rifle is 7lbs naked, with scope and bi-pod it'll probably be closer to 9#.

I'm of the notion to just keep the 7 mag, and not bother with a standard cartridge.

[bearpaw]

Have you tried your 300 without the brake?  The brake is nice for range work and over 600 spotting your shots, but for under 600 screw on the thread protector?  If its a 9# rifle the kick isn't bad unless you are running wood stock with minimal butt pad.  I've hunted with .300 and 338's for 35 years and never felt a need for a brake with them except for extended range work and load development.  If you are carrying a 7# rifle including scope then yea the kick won't be friendly.

I've shot enough 180gr factory rounds out of it to sight it in, so not really a good test. The thread protector is a good sugestion, but I'd just as soon set it up and leave it alone. The rifle is 7lbs naked, with scope and bi-pod it'll probably be closer to 9#.

I'm of the notion to just keep the 7 mag, and not bother with a standard cartridge.

   smart thinking

[birddogdad]

375 H&H

[yakimanoob]

I must've missed where the OP asked for advise on the mechanics of shooting long range.  I thought he just asked for caliber recommendations.

 

We get it folks, your ideas are important.  But maybe just answer the question?  If you want to argue that 6.5crm is insufficient at 600yds that's one thing.  Assuming the OP can't shoot at his specified range is something else. 

FWIW, mhwash, it sounds like you're looking for a very similar tool to what I wanted, and after playing with all the options I chose a 7mm-08.  A big part for me was that Pvri Partizan makes some cheapo ammo for me to practice with, as I'm pretty new to shooting and don't reload.  But I liked the balance the 7mm-08 gives between bullet weight and ballistics.  If I could buy cheap 6.5crm ammo off the shelf, I may have gone with that. 

And just to put everyone at ease: given that I'm inexperienced I've set a limit for myself around 350yds.  But as I practice, that will creep up to about 600yds before I start thinking about a more heavy-handed LR caliber.