Starting Out

[acnewman55]

Thinking of picking up bow hunting this year. Been hunting mule deer for four years, and taken two, both at around 70 yards.

Mostly interested in bow hunting to get out into the woods more and also allow for the taking of antlerless deer in my unit, which increases my chances of meat in the freezer.

I need to get my draw length measured, and then will begin looking for a used bow to start practicing in anticipation for next years bow season.

A few questions;

What are the pitfalls to lookout for when buying a used bow?

Any reason to go with a draw weight other than 50-60 lbs? I'm 5'10" 190 and fit.

Are adjustable bows (draw lengths and draw weights) sacrificing anything in terms of consistency and quality or are they g2g?

Trying to spend no more than $500 for my starting setup - can budge a little if necessary. What should I focus on?

Thanks!




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[N7XW]

Nothing wrong with buying a used bow.  With many peoples insistence on buying a new bow every year (crazy if you ask me), you can pick up a very lightly used recent model for about half the cost of new.  Check the classifieds on archery talk.  You'll be amazed at how many are listed there.  Just make sure the string is in good shape and bow fits you (draw length, draw weight, desired brace height, etc.)  Make sure there are no flaws in the limbs (cracks, splinters).  A little flaking usually is not a problem depending on the history of the manufacturer.  You can probably find a good used bow completely setup too - sight, stab, rest, etc. for a good price.

50-60 lbs is all you need for hunting.  Go higher than 60 lbs if you want but your accuracy may suffer and shoulder, elbow, wrist may sustain damage in the long run.  You're not going to sacrifice anything in terms of accuracy or consistency with an adjustable bow.  Most hunting bows are fully adjustable these days.

When I first got into bow hunting all I wanted was high draw weight and high arrow speed.  Boy was I wrong.  Now with experience under my belt, all I want out of my bows is consistent accuracy and forgiveness.  I'd recommend no shorter than a 7" brace height especially if this is your first bow.  Tuning, patience and practice are key.  If you can't/don't do your own tuning, find a reputable shop or someone that has the knowledge to do it.  I don't recommend Cabelas or any of the other big box stores.  It's been my experience that those guys typically know just enough to put a package together and send you out the door.  It's then up to you to figure out why your shots are not consistent at distance.

Don't get a bow that is too much draw weight and make sure your draw length is right on.  If either are off, bad shooting form will follow.

Arrows will be key also.  Make sure you don't go less than 6 grains per pound of draw weight, even though 5gpp is the safe minimum.  Make sure your arrows are properly sized and your points are properly sized (dynamic spine) for your setup.

I know it sounds like a lot and it is but I've found that if you want to get proficient at archery you need to dig into the technical details of the equipment and the mechanics of good form.  I'm not one to go out and fling a few arrows and call it good.  I want near perfection and with time (and money) spent I hope to achieve that.

Good luck.  Stick with it.  Chances are you'll be hooked.  There is nothing quite like seeing an arrow dropping into the 10 ring from long distance, very satisfying.

[acnewman55]

Awesome, thanks for the tips. Lots to learn here!


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[Redbeard]

N7XW nailed it.

[300rum]

It is easy to draw a bow that is set up for you when you are shooting in an indoor range. 

When it is 5 degrees outside, you have multiple layers on including a big coat, you have been sitting in two feet of snow for an hour and a half trying to stay still (and warm) with a charlie horse biting because you are dehydrated and have been waiting for the animal to turn, that's when it counts.   

Personally, I lower my draw weight so I can pull my bow straight back, with a heavy coat, when I am exhausted, without moving it a bit, straight back.  Most shooters's can't pull a 70lb bow straight back, they "porpoise" and that doesn't work in the field.  I also shortened my draw length for the same reason's.   

[acnewman55]

This all makes sense, I suppose I'll need to get into an archery shop and practice drawing at different weights, then select what would be comfortable if I were exhausted on a hunt.

I need to get measured for draw length too, then I'll start hunting for a used bow.


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[fillthefreezer]

often times, longer ATA bows will give you good speed, and still allow you a 7in brace, so that the bow is easy to shoot well. i picked up my current bow off AT classifieds, as a year or two old in great shape for ~500 with rest. i had a quiver and sight to go with it. its 4? years old now and feel no need to upgrade.
not a fan of the budget bows, would much rather shoot a couple year old high end bow..

[DOUBLELUNG]

If you do a private sale, have them agree the sale is contingent on a satisfactory inspection by a professional bow shop.  Use Paypal, and do the purchase goods option, NOT friends or family - offer to add the 2.9% Paypal fee for goods transactions as an alternative to F&F.  If you want to return the bow and they balk, Paypal will refund your money contingent on a delivery confirmation number showing the bow was mailed back to them.  Great protection for  both buyer and seller.  I agree with buying a good quality used bow, longer ATA with >/= 7" brace height for ease of learning.  I started at 50 eons ago, went up to 80s for several years, and then back down to a 50-60 maxed at 62lbs.  Way more important to be able to shoot accurately with your broadheads than draw weight or speed.

[huntnfmly]

A good rule of thumb I read while  reading up on draw weight is to be able to draw back your bow while sitting on a stool with feet off the ground.
  I'm just beginning also and that's one of the tips I found

[Jimmy33]

I went from a recurve to compound this year in regards to archery. I decided to go with a mission zone and I shoot 60 pounds at 28 inches. I found that it was a great bow for the price. I chose to go to 60 pounds even though I had to draw more with trad gear. The bows are fast these days and 60 pounds is plenty when it comes to hunting mule deer or elk. As mentioned earlier...learn your equipment and get proficient.


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[Special T]

Do a quick you tube search for measuring draw length. It's easy and will save you lots of aggravation. Buy a bow that is your draw length. If you don't do independent research about how to adjust poundage and draw lenght... once again you tube or archery talk is a good research.  Some bows can change either with an allen wrench. Some need new cabs strings cables significantly adding to the cost of fitting the bow properly

Used bows can be a good deal but you need to invest some time in research ahead of time. Many people don't want to invest in the knowlege which is why many people recommend a pro shop.  New bows are coming out right now, so it is a good time to shop around. Additionally not all brands still offer support in the way of cams for older bows. My understanding that the big 3 do. Mathews Hoyt Bowtech. There may be others but I don't know.

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[huntnfmly]

I just bought a diamond sb 1 for my daughter From cabelas ready to shoot for $399 last weekend .
 Just bought myself a ready to shoot quest AMP bow from cabelas $377.
Both have a lot of adjustment

[Calvin Rayborn]

The spirit of Fred Bear will guide you