Winterizing Trailer advice

[7mmfan]

I bought our first trailer this year. I've been busy hunting all fall and realized yesterday that the cold is coming and I need to winterize this thing. Short of draining everything and putting some desiccant inside, is there other highly recommended stuff that I can easily do here at home? I read about pumping antifreeze into the system, but don't own the equipment to do it. I'm sure all of this is very easy to accomplish, but being a first timer it's a little intimidating. I don't really want to pay Roy Robinson or Poulsbo RV whatever they want to charge to do this.

[birddogdad]

I bought our first trailer this year. I've been busy hunting all fall and realized yesterday that the cold is coming and I need to winterize this thing. Short of draining everything and putting some desiccant inside, is there other highly recommended stuff that I can easily do here at home? I read about pumping antifreeze into the system, but don't own the equipment to do it. I'm sure all of this is very easy to accomplish, but being a first timer it's a little intimidating. I don't really want to pay Roy Robinson or Poulsbo RV whatever they want to charge to do this.

you can use the RV anti freeze from wally world (cheaper).. they normally use air to blow lines pump in anti f... . drain san systems ect, there are normally line drains under camper, mine are red/blue plastic with valves.. compressor and LOW pressure at your exterior panel are good locations.. can also blow back in sinks, shower, ect... that RV antifreeze i think is a couple bucks a gal.. if you go with say 30$ worth and get above onboard pump suction, you can run out to sinks, toilet fills at all endpoints not big job..... i am in Port orchard and temps normally dont go below 22F in winter.. i DONT winterize my rig.. i leave thermostat at 40F and have water in tank all winter. i dont run hot water heater but the camper can be a backup if i have a need to exit house.. i keep propane filled and elect hooked to building.. have never had issue here... you can learn what temp to set thermo at to maximize propane life.. if your area gets lower, you may want to up thermo setting during cooler periods...  ...

[Timberstalker]

Birddogdad has it nailed down.

Add antifreeze to the main fresh water tank, run the pump until you get antifreeze in all faucets/toilets/showers and then drain the low spots (usually the red and blue hoses and the hot water heater) until you see antifreeze.

Shouldn't be more than a couple hours and less than $50.

[Ridgeratt]

You should find a suction on your water pump 3 way valve to pump the lines. There is also a by-pass on the water tank, so you don't fill 6 gallons into it. Hit the hardware store for a cheep sprinkler blowout fitting. I can do mine with less than 2 gallons. Blow out the hot lines and then leave the valves open they won't freeze. You will find a drain plug on the water tank. Pull it and leave out, If it can't expand it won't break.

And remember Google is your friend!!!

[vandeman17]

Buy or build a heated shop to park your trailer in. Problem solved. 

Birddog has it down. My old man and I did mine the other day

[Encore 280]

My trailer, 26' Arctic Fox is plugged in all the time when I'm not using it and a little ceramic heater is always on during the cold months. I open the cabinet doors under the kitchen and bathroom sinks so the area is exposed to the warmer air. It's the 4 season package so don't really have to worry too much.

[trophyhunt]

The newer trailers are too easy, drain the red and blue pipes underneath the trailer w your vent valve open on your hot water tank. Open all faucets at the same time, done. You could pull your plug on your hot water tank but by doing the above action, you won’t see water in it, but it’s good to check or replace the sacrificial rod at that time. I also open drawers and leave a small heater in it at a low temp.

[BD1]

All of the above...I also run a dehumidifier. I run a small heater but not the actual furnace. 

[7mmfan]

So for our average western WA winters, you guys don't worry about antifreeze in them? I see some comments about adding it but the general consensus seems to be just drain it and keep heat/moisture control going.

[trophyhunt]

I’ve never ran anti freeze but I don’t see where putting it in your drains would hurt. No need for it in the water tank, BUT, I guess a little anti freeze in your pump wouldn’t hurt either!!

[KFhunter]

1) drain the hot water tank, remove the sacrificial anode, drain the main potable water tanks, and of course drain the sewage and grey water as well.

I have property so I like to dump at an RV dump site, then when I get home I open the valves out the back 40 in case there's a dribble, then leave them open all winter with the caps off.

2) I use an air compressor and hook it up to my city water inlet, careful not to pressurize the plumbing to 120 psi so I open water faucets before I crack the valve open on the air.

This blows the lines clear to the hot water tank. Have a rag handy to mop up the spray around your countertops.

3) isolate the hot water tank by turning on the bypass valve, then turning off the inlet and hot outlet valves to the hot water tank.  I don't like RV antifreeze in my hot water tank, so it's isolated before next steps

4) find the winterizing hose that sticks down in the pink rv antifreeze, run the stuff through everything make sure to get shower and outside water outlets too. Make sure to get pink through hot and cold lines. Toilet too!


5) repeat step 2, blow that pink crap out of the lines. 

6) get that rag you used to mop up the water you blew out of the lines and plug one side of the sink drain, use air compressor to blow out the drain traps.  Use rag and air nozzle to blow out the sink and bathtub traps as well. 


It might be overkill, but there's not going to be issues no matter ho cold it gets!

[BD1]

So for our average western WA winters, you guys don't worry about antifreeze in them? I see some comments about adding it but the general consensus seems to be just drain it and keep heat/moisture control going.

Not sure that is does much but I pour some antifreeze down the sink drains and in the toilet.

[trophyhunt]

1) drain the hot water tank, drain the main potable water tanks, and of course drain the sewage and grey water as well.

I have property so I like to dump at an RV dump site, then when I get home I open the valves out the back 40 in case there's a dribble, then leave them open all winter with the caps off.

2) I use an air compressor and hook it up to my city water inlet, careful not to pressurize the plumbing to 120 psi so I open water faucets before I crack the valve open on the air.

This blows the lines clear to the hot water tank. Have a rag handy to mop up the spray around your countertops.

3) isolate the hot water tank by turning on the bypass valve, then turning off the inlet and hot outlet valves to the hot water tank.  I don't like RV antifreeze in my hot water tank, so it's isolated before next steps

4) find the winterizing hose that sticks down in the pink rv antifreeze, run the stuff through everything make sure to get shower and outside water outlets too. Make sure to get pink through hot and cold lines. Toilet too!


5) repeat step 2, blow that pink crap out of the lines. 

6) get that rag you used to mop up the water you blew out of the lines and plug one side of the sink drain, use air compressor to blow out the drain traps.  Use rag and air nozzle to blow out the sink and bathtub traps as well. 


It might be overkill, but there's not going to be issues no matter ho cold it gets!

damn, I always forget that outside shower!!  Thanks

[ghosthunter]

All I have to say is all the above. And that antifreeze is cheaper than the repairs you could find yourself doing in the spring. Every trailer is different. Only takes one low spot in the line somewhere to do a lot of damage. I watched a guy show up at a state park last spring with his trailer he did not use antifreeze in, flooded the whole thing when he hooked up to water.

[baker5150]

1) drain the hot water tank, drain the main potable water tanks, and of course drain the sewage and grey water as well.

I have property so I like to dump at an RV dump site, then when I get home I open the valves out the back 40 in case there's a dribble, then leave them open all winter with the caps off.

2) I use an air compressor and hook it up to my city water inlet, careful not to pressurize the plumbing to 120 psi so I open water faucets before I crack the valve open on the air.

This blows the lines clear to the hot water tank. Have a rag handy to mop up the spray around your countertops.

3) isolate the hot water tank by turning on the bypass valve, then turning off the inlet and hot outlet valves to the hot water tank.  I don't like RV antifreeze in my hot water tank, so it's isolated before next steps

4) find the winterizing hose that sticks down in the pink rv antifreeze, run the stuff through everything make sure to get shower and outside water outlets too. Make sure to get pink through hot and cold lines. Toilet too!


5) repeat step 2, blow that pink crap out of the lines. 

6) get that rag you used to mop up the water you blew out of the lines and plug one side of the sink drain, use air compressor to blow out the drain traps.  Use rag and air nozzle to blow out the sink and bathtub traps as well. 


It might be overkill, but there's not going to be issues no matter ho cold it gets!

Pull the Anode rod out of the HWT to completely drain it, then leave it out over the winter.
Especially if you aren't adding antifreeze to it.

[KFhunter]

 

I didn't say that but ya.  That's the only way I can drain it.  Anode must come out 

I keep a spare too, if looks like a bulldog chewed up a stick a new one goes in, use plumbing tape

[Threewolves]

1. empty the holding tanks.

2. empty the water tanks including the hot water tank. Turn the pump on for a second to get any water out. Also, flush the toilet

3. put a little air, with adaptor to the city fill. Yes it make a difference, more water comes out.

4. I only pour rv antifreeze in to the holding tanks through the toilet and sinks drains, usually a gallon take care of this, and a little in the toilet to keep it sealed. You don't want any smells from the holding tanks coming back into the camper. I used to put antifreeze in to the water system, but quit, it made the water taste weird even after flushing. I feel blowing out the water lines empties it out pretty good.

5. I use dryease or how ever it is spelled inside. My camper is 12 years old and I have not had any freezing issues.
 

[KFhunter]

I did it that way for years too, then I lost a toilet valve, then the kitchen sink.  Replaced with a nice moen but had to use adapters to swap it from rv sink to moen

I don't know why they froze and broke, I ran air through until.it stopped blowing spray, and just blew air.   

I know if pink stuff comes through I'm good, and if I isolate the hotwater its helps a ton with tbe chemical smell and taste.

I flush with a pretty strong bleach mix in the spring well before I want to use it, the bleach dissipates and water smells clean and fresh

[7mmfan]

Thanks guys, I think I've got a pretty good handle on it now. Just ordered the air compressor adaptor to blow out the lines. Seems like that is a good first move anyway.