212 F-150 -- No crank/ No start

[WapitiTalk1]

Geesh, sell it to a scrap yard and get a Chevy    Couldn’t resist, I hope u get it figured out.

[jackelope]

Another place to check, sounds ridiculous,  but all those fords have a chip in the key, programmed to the computer, we see it at work a handful of times where something goes haywire with the key, the computer does not recognize it, and you'll get a no crank no start issue. With your dash illuminating and all systems working normally, minus no crank no start.


I'd be suspect of voltage though, it can cause a wide array of problems.


I would also be checking all of your grounds for corrosion/tightness.


Starter could be starting to go as well.


Corrosion is a big issue

Funny you mention the key. I had my wife bring her key to try. Nope. I also wonder about other things that might interrupt ignition. Alarm? The ignition itself?

Not key/alarm/etc related.

[Caseyd]

Crankshaft position sensor

[huntnphool]

 First check the voltage at your battery post! Then check the voltage outside the posts on the cables…should be the same.

 Next check the voltage on the cable as someone turns the key.

 Next check the voltage at the starter.

 My guess is your starter is either not getting enough voltage…battery bad…or the starter is either bad or going bad.

 If you have voltage at the starter, try giving it a dead blow tap or two while the key is cranking.

[huntnphool]

Crankshaft position sensor

 I believe they have a cam position sensor, not a crankshaft position sensor.

 It would still crank.

[Caseyd]

Crankshaft position sensor

 I believe they have a cam position sensor, not a crankshaft position sensor.

 It would still crank.

I’d hope it has both or we have a problem

[LDennis24]

It's a starter solenoid. It's got a short or faulty voltage maybe. No response from the starter after turning the key with good batteries and connections points to starter solenoid.

[jeffro]

Recall what F O R D stands for….

[Sandberm]

2012 F150 has had an intermittent no crank issue. New battery. Positive terminal was heavily corroded. Has been cleaned and new battery installed, but battery harness/ cable is on back order for a couple weeks. Was at Evergreen Ford and they didn't figure it out. Does not appear to be the Transmission Range Sensor (Neutral safety switch). Full power to everything, but nada when I turn the key. Let's hear your ideas.

I'm guessing you are on the right path by getting new battery cables. I had an intermittent problem on my s-10 and the corrosion had worked its way into the strands of the positive cable. Got new battery cables and my problem went away.

Good luck and don't forget to update the thread when it does get fixed....or in a fit of frustrated rage you send it over a cliff.

[ballpark]

Check your main ground straps.  A few articles out there.  A couple that are notorious for deteriorating or bad connections to frame/body.  I'll try and find the article.

[MR5x5]

Painful, but I'm assuming you have a circuit diagram and a meter. I'd start at the starter and work my way backwards. 

[Angry Perch]

Lot's of stuff to look at after the weekend. Unfortunately have to leave it home so no crabbing.  :'(

This is the battery cable (harness) that is on backorder. We're not in 1986 anymore, Toto.
Can I run a jumper from the positive terminal to the positive on the starter in order to weed out that piece as the issue?




 

[birddogdad]

if you get click with starter (or bypass crank it) eliminate that issue.. if its not starter probably something in immobilizer ckt. probably a busted wire there...
welcome to ford anti theft !

[MR5x5]

Yes. You can "hot wire" the starter directly from the battery. Things will happen quickly, so make sure all your personal bits are out of harms way.

[Angry Perch]

Yes. You can "hot wire" the starter directly from the battery. Things will happen quickly, so make sure all your personal bits are out of harms way.

I think positive is constant power, no?