Mountain Bike???

[colockumelk]

From reading other posts this is what I have gathered.  In a mountain bike you want it to be as light as possible, have a hard-tail and disc brakes.  Is there any other suggestions on what I should look for in an elk hunting mountain bike.  I'm pretty much as green as it gets when it comes to mountain-biking.  So any additional info will be much appreciated.  Thank you for your time. 

[rasbo]

From reading other posts this is what I have gathered.  In a mountain bike you want it to be as light as possible, have a hard-tail and disc brakes.  Is there any other suggestions on what I should look for in an elk hunting mountain bike.  I'm pretty much as green as it gets when it comes to mountain-biking.  So any additional info will be much appreciated.  Thank you for your time. 

fenders...mud in the face and ass sucks...I have shocks,past the youth stage here.. rack on the back

[Curly]

I'm new to mountain biking so take this for what it's worth...........I don't have disc brakes on my bike and they seem fine to me.  So, I'm not convinced that you need disc brakes......  

I do plan on getting fenders though....and my bike is a hard tail which seems good to me as well.

[Cascader74]

I just got my Topeak Defender set today for fenders, I think I paid around $32 including shipping on Ebay.  I have a suspension mountain bike, I've tried the hard tail and they beat the hell out of me.  I know those guys arguement but I don't see any noticable difference pedalling.  Also have an Axiom Odyssee rack they make several variations under the Odyssee name but they have one for suspension/disc brake bikes the rear was only about $50 bucks much cheaper than the Surly rear racks that want $108.  I'll probably go with a Surly front rack though. 

[whacker1]

If you go full suspension, you want the ability to lock out the shock on the rear, so that you can ride as if it were a hardtail.  There are good brands and equipment, but it is amazing what quality equipment can do for making a more comfortable & confident ride into the middle of nowhere.  I bought a Kona Cinder Cone from 2008 used off of craigslist.  It had hardly been used. 

I have been towing the little man (2 year old) around in the bike buggy with my wife's older Trek 820, which is a nice bike.  And the thing I noticed is that the rim brakes started to get difficult to stop with the added weight inertia.  I don't think disk brakes are critical, unless you are a fat a$$ like me.  I weigh 250, plus bike and buggy - 40 lbs, and son at 30 lbs.  If that makes the brakes get squishy, I would hate to see what it would do with a steaper hill and quarter of an elk. 

I haven't towed him behind my Kona, because the disc brakes get in the way of the attachment for the particular buggy we have.  I am working on a different attachment, so that I can tow him, but haven't worked out the details just yet. 

What is your budget?  Do you know what size bike you should be on?  might want to go get fitted for a bike to see what size frame you should be looking at.

[Tim]

all you still need is a single wheeled yak trailer

[colockumelk]

I have no clue what size I am.  So I guess I'll go get fitted.  Thanks for that bit of info.  Like I said I'm as green as you can get when it comes to this info.  As for a budget I'd like to limit myself at $500.  Although if I found something for 550 and I really liked it I'd probably pull the trigger on it.  Also I didn't know that you could get a full suspension that you can lock out.  Thanks for that as well.

Thanks guys keep the info coming.  I need all the help I can get.   

[whacker1]

I paid $550 for the Kona i bought a month ago.

They actually manufacture the suspension, so it has a lock out feature.  My front forks have lockout feature on them, and it just makes the front forks stiff.  Some bikes are made with a rear suspension lockout as well.   You are looking for a

I rode about 4 other bikes before buying this one.  I was trying to save money and ultimately came back to the bike I wanted the most and spent the coin on the nicer bike. 

Here is a good web-site that will give you an idea of what to look at for reviews.

www.mtbr.com

You are looking for trail and cross country style (xc) bikes.

i am 5'8" tall with a short inseam and longer torso.  So I bought an 18" frame, but was looking at 17" and 18" frames.  The primary factors when researching frames that you look at are SO (Stand over),standing over the top tube of the bike and the length of the top tube without racking your gonads.  And the length of the top tube.  If you are too big of frame it will have you two stretched out, and too short and you will feel a little cramped. 

I looked at a Marin that was a 16" frame and I could tell it was too small for me.

I am by no means an expert, but I learned a lot in the last few months of research.  Go out and demo a few bikes at a bike shop or two and figure out what is comfortable and what is not. 

I would suggest buying used, because I think you can find more bike than what you can afford new at the same $500.   

I also found that lesser known brands like Kona, put higher end components on their bikes for the same amount of money as the more well known brands like Gary fisher or Trek.  Not knocking those brands.  I ended up getting hydraulic disc brakes, better rims, and LX rear derailer, and Deore front derailer, and shifters, which were all higher components than I found on the rest of the bikes I demoed.   

[whacker1]

one last thing for the time being.  I also, just by chance, ended up with a silent rear hub.  So there is no clicking as you freewheel like most mountain bikes have.  So for those that were asking in a prior thread.  You have to change the hub to a silent freewheel in order remove the noise.  probably not worth it for most folks based on cost.

[Little Fish]

I know this has been mentioned, but I would suggest buying a used bike off Craigslist for 1/2 the price of new (or more), then take the $$$ you saved and bolt on all the accessories that you want. The accessories I added to my bike in order of priority are:

1)  bow/gun rack mounted to handle bars
2)  Granny gear(s) for steep hill climbing (local bike shop switched out the low range sprocket on the crank and 2 or 3 or the low end gears on the back)
3)  Rear gear rack (to this I added a milk crate for carrying extra junk)
4)  Gel seat. This was pretty expensive as far as seats go, but is more that 2x as good as my old seat and makes a noticeable difference
5)  Front fender
6)  Set of water bottles
7)  Air pump
 Light



I may add a front gear rack in the future, but so far I like my current setup.

[Holg3107]

I am an avid mtn biker and use one of mine to hunt from as well. A few things to know. #1. disk brakes are a bit more efficient and have the ability to last but when they get dirty they get really loud, they will still work just fine but it will sound like a screech from the pits of hell. #2. If you are on a $500 budget (which is perfect for a hunting bike IMO) look for components, (rear derailer, brake levers, ect....) that if manufactured by shimano should say either "Deore", LX, or XT, if they don't say that they are a very low end model and will have a higher potential to brake. #3. Get a hard tail, front suspension is necessary but that rear suspension will cause more harm than good. If you see something you like and want a second opinion before you fork out some cash on it feel free to drop me a PM. #4. a heavy bike doesn't necessarily feel heavy pedaling, if the bike fits and the components are solid then don't be afraid of a 30-32 pound bike it may pull a trailer better. #5 make sure it has (3) chain rings on the front cranks, that extra set of granny gears will save you with your gear on the back and the extry weight. Good Luck.

[wapiti hunter2]

Some pics will help.  Here is my Trek 4200.  $550 new, I got it almost new with extra tires and rims for $200 on Craig's List.  I added the front fender and the rear rack/fender, I hate mud splashing and the  gun rack.  They cost me an additional $125.  It is a hard tail and has conventional brakes but I rode 120 miles during elk season and they are still fine.  I love my bike.

[funkster]

 I would add a kickstand also. Not every brand will work for hunting but this heavy duty one works great. It is called the stabilizer http://www.greenfieldny.com/chart_bicycle.htm

[dewandgin]

Definetly buy used. Personally have rode both and maybe it's the age but I have a Rocky Mtn Slayer that has full suspension and bought it used off CL for $650 and have rode it for three years and hauled elk , deer, and part of a bear on it and never had a problem and I ride it alot. Spend the money and get a good tune up on it and then read up on how to maintain it. Disc brakes can get noisey but either mechanical disc or hydraulic disc have never had a failure or a fade with them. Buy the most quality bike you can afford and you will not regret it. Just like any other piece of machinery though it is all about the maintenance.

[whacker1]

what brand/style of gun racks are you folks using or suggest?

[funkster]

You can check out my thread here http://hunting-washington.com/smf/index.php/topic,46186.0.html I covered a lot of mishaps and the differences I have found between a few different bikes. 

[Little Fish]

I like the kick stand idea.

I have the mad dog fin grips. The rubber is soft plus the "fins" contour around the curve of my bow providing a secure hold and not a lot of movement.

[whacker1]

same mad dog fin grips as they make for ATV's?

[caseyv21]

i have been looking at mountain bikes recently on craigslist, and i was wondering if somebody can post a picture of a bow rack that they have on their bike.

[Little Fish]

Whacker 1....yes

Casey....I wil try and remember to grab a pic from my house tonight.

[Caretaker]

I have a Specialized Hard Rock purchased at the Bonney Lake bike shop, now located down the hill in Sumner.  Used it many times in Longview elk hunting.  Disk brakes a must, good suspension secondary but very important.  Keep in ming your carrying around a lot of extra weight (clothing, food, rifle, back pack or bike packs).  Need a sturdy frame to handle the weight when over rough terrain.  I personally didnt care for the handlebar mounts as I thought they would affect my scope zero point but could never verify it.  Never had a problem but switched to a over the back scabbard.  Good spiked pedals are a must when using muddy boots.

Caretaker

[Tim]

Has anyone figured out how to carry a recurve bow (assembled and strung )while on a bike ?

[bow4elk]

Has anyone figured out how to carry a recurve bow (assembled and strung )while on a bike ?

You can strap it to the back of your pack at an angle or use handle bar gun/bow holder rack.  If you have a quiver on your bow, you may find the space between your riser and arrows won't allow for the gun/bow rack, and you'll need to watch your tips while riding and getting on and off.  My recurve is 58" and I prefer it on my back.

[Cascader74]

Here's a rear rack claiming to be the strongest pannier rack ever made, lists Max Capacity 150kg which equals 330lbs. Hard to find though. 

 http://www.johnhenrybikes.com/catalog.asp?whichpage=0&search=&mode=price&category=82&subcategory=365&item=625

[funkster]

That would be funny,330lbs on the back of a bike. You might want to add a wheelie bar To me that is a ridiculous claim.

[fishm@n]

Interesting thread. I've been an avid mountain biker/racer since there were only two brands of them Specialized and Schwinn.. since about 1984. I think before you go putting a bunch of money into bike and gear that you've thought hard about where you hunt and your physical conditioning. If you're in an area that has a lot of closed logging roads with fairly gentle grades then you're probably looking at the right terrain. If you're hunting a lot of really steep stuff with gnarly single track motorcycle trails where you'll be walking your bike more than riding it (like where I tend to hunt) you might want to reconsider for a good pair of boots and a well fitting pack. If you do opt for a bike get in shape before the season because they don't peddle themselves. 

[GregE]

Bow bike rack pictures requested.  Here's mine- the Pack Rack was the original.



close up with out the bungee- don't trust the little rubber holders.



 The bar extensions work well to get additional clearance

[blackveltbowhunter]

+ 2 fishm@ns post. Definitley consider your conditioning and the terrain you will be hunting. For me, my bike pulls double duty during the summer as I ride alot of trails in the off season. Also I ride alot of country where it is a push in - pedal out deal.  So i ride full suspension, its mostly personal preference. Also good components are a must, but I wouldnt get to hung up on disc brakes. Both styles will provide more than enough stopping power. Just make sure they are well tuned, my current setup has standard wheel brakes ( albeit good quality) and I took a quarter elk, the head, tent and trailer, pack and bow 17 miles mostly down hill with some good grades with no problem. Also just something to consider, if you use a bow or gun rack and wreck your bike you just wrecked your gun or bow to. I personally prefer a pack that can carry my bow or gun, again just personal perference.

[funkster]

Also just something to consider, if you use a bow or gun rack and wreck your bike you just wrecked your gun or bow to. I personally prefer a pack that can carry my bow or gun, again just personal perference.

If you wreck your bike it does not matter if it is on your back or your bike ,the bow is going to hit the ground. I would rather get away from bike(if possible) than have a bow with broadheads attached to me 

[colockumelk]

That's all good advice.  Being in shape isnt' a problem because I'm in the Army and thus have no choice but to be in shape.   I'm thinking as far as what I want my bike to do it will all be riding on closed logging roads.  Some of it will be pretty steep logging roads but it will all be roads.  I don't plan on getting into the mountain-bike 8 foot jumps over boulders kind of stuff. I just want to be able to get past the majority of hunters in the quickest time possible. 

[fishm@n]

Friend of mine's dad just picked up a couple of these bad boys on CL for 2/3 off retail. Talk about the ultimate bike!

http://www.nycewheels.com/tidalforce-750-plus.html#pictures

[funkster]

Friend of mine's dad just picked up a couple of these bad boys on CL for 2/3 off retail. Talk about the ultimate bike!

http://www.nycewheels.com/tidalforce-750-plus.html#pictures

I will have no problem turning in someone motoring by me when I am pushing my bike up the mountain the legal way..... just alittle FYI!

[halflife65]

I had someone drop me off at Green Pass and road into Little Naches some time back.  It was all good except that it snowed about an inch (wet and traction wasn't a problem).  The issue was that it did something to the brakes and the pads started to rip off when I was riding down the hill and they hardly worked.  By the time I got to the bottom, which had a steep pitch, it was dark and I was doing about 90mph down the road.  The exact same thing happened to me when I rode over the top of Huckleberry Ridge in the White River unit when it used to be open for general elk season.  Going down into the Huckleberry was death defying.  Scared the crap out of me.  The last few years of the open general season, I think that they just opened those gates and you could just drive it, unfortunately.  Anyway, maybe disk brakes are the way to go (I have the old style on my bike.) 

[Kain]

I bought this bike at Walmart for $500.  Has some really decent components for the price.  This will be my third year on it and have had no issues except a flat.  The rear suspension does eat energy going up hills but I think it makes up for it coming down.  I dont know much about bikes but I would recommend buying used or buying something like mine and upgrading the components as needed.  I went to a couple cycle shops for anything similar and the price was just far to high for me.