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Author Topic: Steelhead Jig Tutorial  (Read 16064 times)

Offline carpsniperg2

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #30 on: February 20, 2011, 08:21:48 PM »
What weights are your floats? I am going to try some jigs this year when they get lock-jaw for bait. I was thinking 1/2 ounce floats with 1/8-1/4ounce jigs? Or sould I go even lighter? I like to be able to see my float. I use 3/4-1oz most of the time.
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Offline Button Nubbs

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #31 on: February 20, 2011, 08:48:10 PM »
Thehunt-
I've tied A LOT of jigs in my day and I still tie jigs I think will look good but they end up going in the junk side of my box :chuckle: will they catch fish? Sure, just about any jig will, but some come out that just don't make the cut.

Carp-
When steelhead become lockjawed to bait it usually has to do with low water conditions (at least where I'm at) or they simply don't want bait that day. You need to match your float to water conditions just like you would your bait/jig/spoon/ect. I saw on another thread that you really liked the beau-mac floats. I love the beau-mac floats for salmon. Steelhead not so much, and here's why. In my opinion the thicker diameter float the harder it will be to pull it under imo. Not sure if this is scientific or not, but its what I believe. A big fat float also makes it harder to read what is going on with your jig under the waters surface.
 Steelhead can be notorious for biting really light espically in low water conditions therefore you need a float that is going to be easier to pull under. I have had steelhead take my bait and literally not even move my float the only way I knew they were there is because I mended and the tension on the line caused the float to go down. Look at the pic I posted of the rigging I use. I use this 90% of the time. Its a 4" or 5" slip dink float. Only when the water gets super low and clear will I change to a straight cork float or a smallish thill style float. Hope it helps.
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Offline Button Nubbs

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #32 on: February 20, 2011, 08:52:52 PM »
One more thing, I believe steelhead can take your bait hold onto it and back down river all the while never moving your float.

Something to ponder...
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Offline carpsniperg2

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #33 on: February 20, 2011, 09:03:52 PM »
Yes I have seen it all :chuckle: I have had a fish on and not even had the float move. Only when I started to reel in, did I feel the fish that was hooked up or had it in its mouth.The water I fish, is right in the Columbia river. There is a lot of water movement, so that is why I like the bigger beau-mac floats. + they don't make a guy strain his eyes in 8hrs of watching a float.
Those small floats at 20+ yards are hard to see :chuckle:

But what you have said makes a lot of sense for the jigs. We also pick up a salmon or 2 when fishing for the steelhead. I will have to pick up some smaller dia floats to try out with the jigs.

Sometimes they fright train, other times suck the heads >:( It is always funny to see how diffrent they act from day to day.
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Offline TheHunt

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #34 on: February 20, 2011, 09:27:21 PM »
In small clear water I have started to use cork float.  The float that nubbs showed you can adjust the float by reeling in with the float at the top of the rod to shorten it up.  To lengthen it you would still need to pull it up by hand.  That is a real time saver for keeping your junk in the water and fishing as much as you can. And they are cheaper then Beau Mac's.
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Offline carpsniperg2

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #35 on: February 20, 2011, 09:38:50 PM »
Intresting, I will look for some smaller ones to add to the box. I have spent way to much in the last month, on fishing gear. I have got the bug already! :chuckle:

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial new patterns 2/24
« Reply #36 on: February 24, 2011, 08:36:36 PM »
im bored tonight. tying a few jigs. heres some new patterns. I apoligize for the crappy pics. :brew:

[smg id=10386]

[smg id=10385]

now the pics do no justice on this last one. this thing is friggin BAD and you would not believe how well it breathes in the water. still working out the kinks on it. its kinda a rip off of Ed Wards "intruder", with my own twist, I call it "the burgular".  :chuckle: friggin hard to tie too

[smg id=10384]
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Offline Button Nubbs

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #37 on: December 18, 2013, 01:34:22 PM »
Bump for ddjj1991
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Offline h20hunter

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #38 on: December 18, 2013, 01:56:57 PM »
Nice bump....can't see the pics.....anyone else see them?

Offline mallard79

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #39 on: December 18, 2013, 06:25:35 PM »
I can see them on my phone.

Offline NW-GSP

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #40 on: December 18, 2013, 06:27:03 PM »
Look good!

Offline Old Dog

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #41 on: December 18, 2013, 06:33:16 PM »
I can't see them.
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Offline SuperFull

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #42 on: December 18, 2013, 08:19:21 PM »
Thanks guys!


How much for a dozen?  :dunno:

i do need some new turkey land to add to my arsenal... :rolleyes:


Jason knows better than to trade that info for some jigs.  I'd have his nuts in a vise, that is unless he led you in a different direction. :chuckle:

Nice looking jigs btw.

Offline 7mmfan

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #43 on: December 18, 2013, 08:32:18 PM »
Diggin the "burgular"! Very similar to alot of the jigs I use. I tend to roll most of the time with a simple chenille body/yarn tail, but sometimes the bigger bodied feathery jigs kick butt, they really do move better. Good for big wild fish too!
I hunt, therefore I am.... I fish, therefore I lie.

Offline TheHunt

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Re: Steelhead Jig Tutorial
« Reply #44 on: December 18, 2013, 09:17:32 PM »
I cannot see the pictures either.
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