Thanks to everyone for their input. I like the 22 lr approach for working on the parts of shooting that I can control since I have very little experience behind the scope. I've checked out a number of the long range forums that you guys have suggested and they are loaded with tins of great info. I'd like to get a system that will put me back about $2500. Is that a reasonable budget? Anyone here put together a rig for around that?
You can do well with this size budget. you should check out
http://www.savagearms.com/firearms/models/ The savage law enforcement series especially will get you in a Very accurate heavy contour barrel without breaking the bank and then you will have $$$ to spend on glass. For this type of build consider spending as much on glass as the rifle... Unless you go custom rifle then more for the rifle... you might consider a fluted barrel as well, not for accuracy advantage but to speed cooling. if you are spending the kind of range time you need to to get these skills it will be more fun if your rifle can cool more efficiently. I like the savage 10 FCP Mcmillan and 10 FCP HS precision, and the 10 precision carbine. I've shot the 10 BA which is very accurate but way too heavy for a hunting rifle.
For glass consider first: Nightforce NSX, then maybe vortex razor HD, then a Vortex viper PST if you want to spend a little less. you could also look at balistics compensating custom turrets but they are not needed. you can actually dope your own turets and mark the range on them in a piece of masking tape.
For a scope of this quality and to do this job, expect to spend $1K or more and make sure you get turrets that match the substentions in your reticle (MOA/MOA or MIL/MIL) I like MIL/Mil in my Vortex. this will allow you to measure the difference between point of aim and point of impact and make real time adjustments to your turrets. I also recomend getting a first focal plane reticle meaning the substentions in the reticle will work for ranging at any magnification without a conversion formula.
At a thousand yards+ the quality of your glass will make the difference between not being able to see your target and hitting it. Also I would look for a scope with at least a 4:1 power factor like a 6-24x50mm. this will allow you to spot your target on a lower power then zoom in to a higher power. If you don't have that low power end you will not be happy as you will see something in the spotting scope then never be able to find it in the rifle scope because your field of view will be too small. you should also consider getting a spotting scope with substentions that match your rifle scope. This way if you work with a spotter they can call corrections to you that you can read in your reticle without converting anything.
