Rear brakes on Chevy 2500HD

[cohoho]

How the frig do they get those 8mm or T55 bolts out to get the brake caliber off.  Fronts are bolts, rears stupid star bolts.........   The darn spring prevent ratchet from entering.  My 8mm Allen is too long to fit and the T-55 I cannot get enough torque on it?  Au ugh, I will replace with standard bolt if I get it off....  Anyone?

[iusmc2002]

I think that was the ones I used heat on.  Mine's an '02 GMC w/ the 6.6.  My wife has a '03 Yukon.  They both needed the same Torx bit, but I can't remember which one I had to use heat to get them off.  GOOOOOOOOD luck buddy.  I stripped 2 of those Torx before I finally got them undone. 

[Rick]

I broke a couple of the Torx bits when I did the brakes on my '01.  IIRC I ended up welding a hex head on to the Torx head,and broke it loose that way.

[cohoho]

You guys are supposed to have solution, not tell me I am in for a alot of work....     I can't get any of the ones I have into the skinny space to get a rachet on it....  Guess I'll go to a couple store tomorrow and see if they have shallower torque wrenches...

[ANDERWAGON]

Do you have an impact screwdriver? You can buy a cheap one from most part stores for a bout 15 bucks and it will have a few torgues along with some phillips bits. 

If you put heat to it only place it on the bolt. Heat it, allow it to cool then try to loosen. 

[iusmc2002]

You guys are supposed to have solution, not tell me I am in for a alot of work....     I can't get any of the ones I have into the skinny space to get a rachet on it....  Guess I'll go to a couple store tomorrow and see if they have shallower torque wrenches...

You're using a torque wrench to REMOVE them?  Or did I misunderstand that?

Those 2 18mm bolts that hold the whole thing together, my 1/2" impact gun wouldn't free them.... I just had to fix the drivers side WSS and that was fun.  I had to turn the wheels all the way to the right so I could get my 18" bar in there, then had to use a piece of 4' 4x4 with a hole drilled in it (from a previous "automotive engagement") before I got them broke loose.  I was actually thinking I had left-hand threaded bolts (experience from previously mentioned "automotive engagement") because I had so much leverage on it before they came loose. 

[Miles]

You guys are supposed to have solution, not tell me I am in for a alot of work....     I can't get any of the ones I have into the skinny space to get a rachet on it....  Guess I'll go to a couple store tomorrow and see if they have shallower torque wrenches...

You're using a torque wrench to REMOVE them?  Or did I misunderstand that?
 

I'm betting he meant to say "Torx bits".

[cohoho]

No way to fit a impact wrench in that area between the Torx bolt and left springs?  How the heck did you get that to fit?

[Miles]

No way to fit a impact wrench in that area between the Torx bolt and left springs?  How the heck did you get that to fit?

I always went by the saying "If a man made it, a man can take it apart or fix it".    You've just got to be creative...and sometimes a little stubborn.

[bow-n-head]

I don't remember the size of wrench, but it was just one of those single bent hex type. I had the pickup in the air and I had a cheater pipe on the wrench. It took all my weight to break the bolts loose.

[Woodchuck]

You need a short socket and a GOOD swivel. Sometimes you can get away with using a GOOD 12 pt box end (Craftsman is not a GOOD wrench) They are blue loc-tited in and sometimes heating the head with a propane torch is helpful to soften it up. Heat just the head of the bolt and let it sit about a minute before you get on it.

[ANDERWAGON]

 This is what I was talking about but you need a T55 on a socket.  I would still suggest heat on the bolt.  Heat it let it expand and when it contracts you'll be surprised how much easier it is to remove. That will help you break blue locktite down.

[Woodchuck]

He won't get straight on it is the issue with that, if he could incorporate a swivel in there maybe.

[ANDERWAGON]

He won't get straight on it is the issue with that, if he could incorporate a swivel in there maybe.

Gotcha, then I vote for the heat and a swivel like you suggested.

[Buckmark]

You guys are supposed to have solution, not tell me I am in for a alot of work....     I can't get any of the ones I have into the skinny space to get a rachet on it....  Guess I'll go to a couple store tomorrow and see if they have shallower torque wrenches...

You need 4 things.
1) Heat, small propane or butane torch, even a soldering iron will get it done.
2) T55 torx bit, just the bit...
3) 11mm flare nut wrench.
4) Extra leverage bar for wrench..
Get aT55 torx bit, good one. If you cannot find just a bit get a good socket one and remove the bit (easy to do), now the 11mm flare nut wrench slips over the bit snugly and a good leverage bar (2ft or so piece of pipe, a floor jack handle will work), heat the center of the bolt head, let it sit for a minute or 2, dont touch it it's hot. Slip the bit and 11mm wrench on, slip the bar on and apply steady but firm pressure and they should break free, dont jerk the bar or snap it, steady pressure....
*

[cohoho]

Buckmark--  Perfect, as I found a T-55 sized Torx that will fit...  And have everything for tomorrows adventure.  Going to replace with Bolt headed pins for sure..  Mine had a larger socket 1/2 drive attached and no way could I get in there at all, the small wrench and pipe might be the ticket...  Even though the brakes are working but really worn.  The bracket is loose hard core due to the stupid design of those pins and tiny rubber bushing.  Wish they had real bolts, sure there is a reason...   I'd rather have knowledge on something than bang away trying different ideals...   I have done the front a couple times and had another shop one time do the backs and never realized what a pain they were till now...  Approaching 180K - on a 06 so replacing everything regarding brakes whether they need it 100% or not...

[cohoho]

Brakes on the rear done... Yea, but huge dilemma on the front....Ugh ball joints and idler arm shot...  Crap!!  Quite a bit of play and probably the reason for pulling left and right when I had to use 4 x 4 recently....  First time they will be replaced in a very hard 177K    Any ideas on what the estimate will be on Monday? 

[Rick]

Ugh ball joints and idler arm shot...   First time they will be replaced in a very hard 177K     

That ought to piss off the anti-IFS knuckledraggers.