Author Topic: .223 primer pocket question (Read 3432 times)

h20hunter · « **on:** May 29, 2012, 07:26:45 AM »

So....I'm working on loading my .223 brass. Nothing special, just rounds for range ammo and plinking.

My question is this. It appears that I have two types of brass. One type has a nice (deprimed) primer pocket and is easy to prime. The second type, once deprimed, appears to have a super thin tiny ring around the inside edge of the pocket. It will not take a primer like the other brass.

Whats the deal? Military surplas? Different primer not being punched all the way out on deprime/size die?

Any help appreciated.

Cap.Silver · « **Reply #1 on:** May 29, 2012, 08:12:17 AM »

I would think manufacturing problem .... too tight and when deprimed will pull the excess with the primer and sort of roll over the edge ? I'd say dump it into garbage -it would be safer before one goes off

BULLBLASTER · « **Reply #2 on:** May 29, 2012, 08:13:17 AM »

They have crimped primers. You can take your inside chamfer deal and cut the crimp out. And they will take a primer fine. I use a chamfer bit in a drill and crank them out. Be.sure not too taketoo much off. Just enough to be able to prime the case with the same force as others.

h20hunter · « **Reply #3 on:** May 29, 2012, 08:36:03 AM »

Cool.....thanks for the input....I'd hate to chuck about 100 perfectly fine cases.

BULLBLASTER · « **Reply #4 on:** May 29, 2012, 08:55:50 AM »

Yep. The military cases usually have crimped primers as well as crimped to keep the bullet in.

h20hunter · « **Reply #5 on:** May 29, 2012, 12:36:09 PM »

I think I'm in better shape than I thought. Some of my stuff is second hand so I'm learning what some things are as I go. I've realised one of the pieces of gear I tucked away is a Dillon swager. Any tips on using it to help along the learning curve?

NRA4LIFE · « **Reply #6 on:** May 29, 2012, 12:40:59 PM »

I would have a spare decapping pin handy if you start doing a lot of the military crimped brass. I have broken several before I just stopped re-using that brass.

h20hunter · « **Reply #7 on:** May 29, 2012, 12:49:36 PM »

I hear yah...............should have ordered a second from Dillon last time I needed one. I had a stuck case and was able to pull it using the ol' tap and die extraction method. Worth all the hassle to not have to replace my .223 carbide size/decap die. They are only a few buck from Dillon. I got a bit lucky that I decapped all my brass and never even checked for the crimped primers. Really, If I have enough brass the chance may be worth it since a new pin is cheap (worth it if you have one on hand already!).

I figure I've got about 10 hours of prep into the .223 loading before I put powder to my first case. The first ten ran smooth with no issues. I loaded them about 2gr light on power and only had a difference of about 20fps between the rounds I loaded.

Heredoggydoggy · « **Reply #8 on:** May 29, 2012, 01:02:41 PM »

I just use a countersink bit in my cordless drill to chamfer the military brass. Sounds brutal, but the small cut I make is nothing compared to the gouged out pockets in some of the Black Hills reloaded .223 ammo. The main thing I check on in .223 brass is Trim Length. For some reason, .223 brass grows quickly during firing.

h20hunter · « **Reply #9 on:** May 29, 2012, 01:14:24 PM »

I'm with you doggy...........I use my case gauge on every case to check lenght.

I'll tell you that reloading the .223 is really nothing like knocking out .45 acp round. I checked and checked and then double checked my double check on those first 10 when putting in the powder. That 25 gr of Varget is a lot of powder when you are not used to the volume.

Thoroughly enjoying the process. Especially when it goes boom, runs smooth, has consitent velocity, and hits right about point of aim, and all happens safely!

h20hunter · « **Reply #10 on:** May 29, 2012, 07:07:02 PM »

Swaged three cases while the daughter had a bath....either did a good job or hosed em. They look good.....the primer and press will tell the tale.

BULLBLASTER · « **Reply #11 on:** May 29, 2012, 07:10:43 PM »

Once you do a few and get the right amount it will be easier to see how much it takes.

h20hunter · « **Reply #12 on:** May 29, 2012, 07:11:42 PM »

Roger that. Momma will be home soon, then I can go play in the garage.

Heredoggydoggy · « **Reply #13 on:** May 29, 2012, 08:23:41 PM »

I put all the cases, usually 50 or 100 into a block once the powder charge is put in and look at them all to make sure they are all the same as to powder level. That way, if you miss a charge, or have a short charge, (just as bad) you will see it before a bullet is seated. With no powder, the primer will push the bullet partway up the barrel, making the next shot ring the bore at best, or blow the gun up at worst. A short charge will cause a "detonation", rather than a steady burn. Either one will be an experience not to be forgotten! Reloading is fun, but fortunately I've been able to learn by other's mistakes, rather than my own...

longrangekiller · « **Reply #14 on:** May 30, 2012, 09:19:28 PM »

i had the same thing happen with .270 win brass never did find a solution threw them away

wraithen · « **Reply #15 on:** May 30, 2012, 09:56:09 PM »

Sounds like classic military crimp. Funny thing is I shoot LC brass and don't have any issues. Now as for hornady 30-30 brass... don't get me started

h20hunter · « **Reply #16 on:** May 30, 2012, 09:58:38 PM »

Alls well. I swaged em out and have em loaded up. Did about 300 rounds today.

longrangekiller · « **Reply #17 on:** May 31, 2012, 09:31:10 PM »

the brass that it happend to me on was shot fusion fatory loads

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Author Topic: .223 primer pocket question (Read 3432 times)

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